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Running good and then just quit, help.

 
  #1  
Old 12-22-2018, 04:16 PM
Pintlala
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Running good and then just quit, help.

1972 Ford F100 360, 3 speed manual, (as of November 1, 2018 87500 milage)2 barrel, Motorcraft 2100 carb - recent rebuild with '57' jets main jets (was a 59 and a 50)All of this done along with main problem of 'jumped' timing' = Timing gear kit and gasket set Oil pressure gauge, Oil change and oil filterStarter, solenoid, cables, coil replaced, new Battery and Battery Cables, Voltage Regulator, wall ground strap Plugs, new Distributor , PerTronix 1281 electronic points, Plug Wires, Vacuum Line to dist.Fuel pump, Fuel filters, fuel hose and connections, manual choke replaced non functioning heated choke.Air Filter/PCV valve /Oil Filler Cap, fan belt.

Truck was running fine for 6 weeks. Just a little extra time needed to get warmed up (2-3 minutes). Ran well would pull through field in first on just idle without surging. Today after running 30-40 minutes on highway with stops at 2 stores and clean restarts when it just 'cut off' while going 45 mph. No coughing, no noises, no bucking, no back fire, no nothing. Starter turns over but does not catch at all, seems to have gas, all lights work. Where do I start beyond the checks for spark at plugs, and out of coil?
 
  #2  
Old 12-22-2018, 04:30 PM
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Look for any loose wiring connections, possibly a bad ignition switch? They get wonky when they get old.

Pertonix Ignitor likes a clean low resistance connection between distributor and ground. This assumes the standard Ignitor 1 (#1281 module). Here's how to perform a ground test:

GROUND TESTS
It is imperative that the power and grounds be checked as part of the installation procedure. After installing the Ignitor module and the distributor and with the distributor in the engine, use a digital multi-meter to measure the resistance from the aluminum plate holding the module to battery (-), the net resistance must be less than 0.2 ohms. (Set meter to lowest ohms setting). The net resistance is the meter reading minus the resistance of the meter leads. If the net resistance is greater than 0.2 ohms, the source of the faulty ground must be found and fixed. Usually the source of the bad ground is easily found by holding one probe on an original location and moving the second probe toward the static probe. Where the resistance drops identifies the source."
 
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Old 12-22-2018, 04:55 PM
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I'd also be looking hard at the Pertonix ! Is it easy to put the points back in to check it ???
 
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Old 12-22-2018, 05:09 PM
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Will do that if I show no spark at plug but have spark out of coil
 
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Old 12-22-2018, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Pintlala View Post
Will do that if I show no spark at plug but have spark out of coil
Right, but you're looking for an intermittent, that's the problem. Or the other problem anyway. My old truck one time shut down, just like somebody flipped a switch, out in the middle of nowhere at the goosenecks of the San Juan in Utah. I looked for black helicopters, didn't see anything though LOL. I snapped a pic of my truck, got back in and it started right up, never happened again.

I think it could be the ignition switch in your case. Try jiggling it around maybe, bang on it, see if you can duplicate the problem. Worth ruling out anyway.
 
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Old 12-22-2018, 06:00 PM
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no choppers either but they have satellites you know. How would I 'test' the switch? It turns over the starter now.
 
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Old 12-22-2018, 06:13 PM
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Maybe try finger-faddling the wire harness where it connects to the ignition switch itself, or jiggling the key at idle, carefully calibrated percussive maintenance with a hammer, etc.

What brand of ignition coil is it? How many ohms? When things get hot a defective coil can go intermittent too. Are you running a ballast resistor? This makes for a hotter spark but the coil can get pretty toasty this way, and ignition coils are made overseas cheaply now. Intermittent electrical can be tough to find.
 
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Old 12-22-2018, 06:18 PM
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I know 'faddling'. Coil was not hot. Coil was a NAPA replacement. Not knowledgeable about ballast resistor. How do I check for it?
 
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Old 12-22-2018, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Pintlala View Post
I know 'faddling'. Coil was not hot. Coil was a NAPA replacement. Not knowledgeable about ballast resistor. How do I check for it?

The ballast resistor is "baked in the cake" on Fords, it's part of the wiring harness. It's likely still there. NAPA has good coils. Now they make different coils for different applications. Just to rule this out, I'd want to know the ohms resistance on the primary windings. What's the part number of the coil, or do you happen to know how many ohms?

 
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Old 12-22-2018, 06:44 PM
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Will have to look tomorrow for the ohm rating
 
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Old 12-22-2018, 06:50 PM
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It would be a good idea to make sure the ohms resistance in the primary ignition circuit is not too high, nor too low. Also sometimes folks want to "hang" other items electrically on the ignition circuit because it's a convenient hot. Don't want to do that either.
 
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Old 12-22-2018, 06:51 PM
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[color=left=#222222]1972 Ford F100 360, V8[/color]
 
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Old 12-22-2018, 06:52 PM
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meant to post that it was a V8 360
 
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Old 12-22-2018, 06:56 PM
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Yeah, I noticed that after posting. Sometimes the only practical way is to eliminate things, find out what it ain't, and eventually whatever is left, that's it. Be sure to check the ground resistance at the breaker plate as mentioned. Pertronix works great but transistors don't like poor grounding.
 
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Old 12-23-2018, 06:46 PM
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Tiny ground wire in distributor, original coil

There should be a little, 1.5" long copper ground cable on top of the distributor breaker plate. It is just a little wire-like thing, and flexible. It should take juice from the upper-plate, to the lower-plate, and on out of the distributor. It is opposite the module (here in shadow, and hard to see). Same as stock. Required.


Notice little ground strap on the left, between screws.

And here is a shot of the coil.


Original type coil that fits original bracket.
 

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