When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
As a follow up to my last post- The guy installing my gears finally decides that the noise is from the arb and so he orders another, puts it in and the thing makes even worse noises. I swear to I am going to kick this guys . So now he tells me that some other guys he spoke to have told him that arbs should not be installed in Ford D-60 fronts. What a load of . SO now my question is-is there supposed to be some amount of noise in the front end? The noise only appears when it's in 4wd without the arb even hooked up. I think I have ruled out the hubs or the wheel bearings so now what? The noise is LOUD. It's not the drive shaft or any or the bearings-I think. I have to go to Sacramento on Monday and I think I am going to take it to West Coast Differentials while I am there to have them diagnose it. Anybody have opinions about West Coast?
Last edited by Ryan50hrl; Sep 30, 2003 at 11:24 AM.
Have you tried contacting ARB and asking them how loud it should be?
It does sound like he has it installed incorrectly, has this guy done differentials before? Getting the lash and everything set right is a big deal...and has to be done correctly.
I have an ARB and it's not loud, but mines in a d44, that shouldn't really matter though. What do you mean it doesn't make the noise when the ARB isn't hooked up, you mean engaged?
It shouldn't be loud at all, if the gear lash is properly set up. If its not, it will result in a loud "helicopter" sound and vibration that will pick up with speed. Bad u-joints can also do create these noises/vibes, however. I'll be real honest, I'm beginning to wonder if your guy knows whats he's doing, especially with him telling you arbs shouldn't go into a Ford D60. There are lots of things to look at, including shafts, hubs, and especially u-joints. You've done allot of that but the giveaway here is that you didn't have this problem untill you swapped out your front diff with new gears and the arb, which then resulted in the noise and vibe, correct? This tells me that either the arbs got problems (doubtfull, and the second one was even worse you said), the gears are miscut (even more doubtfull), or he isn't setting the gear lash correctly....which is where my monies at, assuming the problems started after the gear change and your other components look tight/good. Keep us posted.
if he set up the gears wromg to start and it made noise bad, then the noise won't go away intill the ring and pinion is repalced. once set up wrong and driving much no amount of ajusting will bring it back right untill it's replaced. i did this in a tech school, and ruined a ring and pinion (not really, just kinda noisy so i put it in my truck because i can live with a little noise and really needed and new ring and pinion, and it was free!) i would go back and insist it gets fixed, even if new ring and pinion is needed.
Trust me rocket-it's a 60. Mustang- I looked at the pattern and with my limited knowledge it looks as thought the pattern is good. Back to you red- what would be loose.Pro- I am with you on this even though this guy comes highly recommended in so-cal. Now I am in Sacramento and will be taking it to West Coast differentials in the morning. I won't be home to L.A. for a month so I will let them fix it and present the bill to this guy.Anybody have any opinions on West Coast?Red-one last thing-My front is a ten bolt, which according to Dana is a 60( a 50 has 12 bolts)I can't imagine I am wrong about this but let me know what info you might have. Thanks all.I will post tomorrow with the answer.
Well boys it's time. I went to West Coast differentials in Rancho Cordova, Ca. They charged me $150 to pull off the diff cover and say nothings wrong. Well nothings wrong. They said it's the tranny or the transfer case. So I took it to the local tranny shop(which they recommended!) and he says no way it's the front end. He pulled it all apart and it is not the tranny or t-case. So I called West Coast and they said tough . Great way to build a rep. I told them for $150 they should pull the whole front end. They said that costs three hundred dollars. So I paid them 150 for twenty minutes work,six quarts of gear oil and a big load of Now I am really mad. They refuse to give me my money back so I called Visa and cancelled the transaction. The ticket they gave me says disassemble find the problem and reassemble. I am going bald.
Last edited by Ryan50hrl; Sep 30, 2003 at 11:22 AM.
Normaly the contact patch is supposed to be .010=.012" Which is why .008" strikes me as odd. However, I can't say for sure that the diff is the problem.
Tellico-tell me what that means. I am at my wits end. I don't know what else to try. I thought if I threw money at this problem then it would get fixed. apparently I have not found a shop reputable enough or skilled enough to fix it. My next thoughts are damaged u-joints(how do I tell?) Or maybe the front shaft was dropped and is waaaay out of balance or damaged. If I find a shaft shop can they check it for balance? What else is there?
Phased means, both u-joints are in the same position on the shaft. If you turn the shaft so one joint is straight up....the other joint should be straight up too.
I hope my explanation isnt too confusing....I'm a little confused after reading it hahaha.
Bad joints or a bent shaft could make some noise too.
I dont know if these guys are any good, but they are near LA.
Perfect Pattern Differential
5640 Shull St # K, Bell Gardens, CA 562-928-9771
Last edited by tellico racing; Sep 30, 2003 at 05:46 AM.
CWB....posting profanities with letters blocked out is an infringment on the user agreement you agreed to when you started. I know your frustrated but please refrain from the word choice in the future.