Does it crank? If so you might have lost power to the FSS on the top of the IP. Turn the key on and disconnect/reconnect the front connector on the drivers side. You should hear an audible click. If not, connect battery positive (12Volts) to it and try to start it. This is just a random pic from the web. If no crank at all then maybe the neutral safety switch finally went out, as you say you need to move the shift lever to start it sometimes. You should still be able to bypass the safety switch and jump it from the relay on the passenger fender (make sure it is in NEUTRAL or PARK before trying), but IDK which terminals to cross. Somebody should be along soon that knows more than me about this and the safety switch itself; I don't have an auto lol

 

 

Sometimes when cold,a solenoid will stick.Did you try tapping gently on the fender mounted solenoid? If so,you could also try tapping the one on the starter.

 

I like the way you think, I took a pipe wrench to the main body of my starter, but I never thought about lightly taping the solenoid on the fender or on the starter, let me drive back down there and give that a try (My wife has since rescued me, and I have a new starter ready to go if need be)

 

Tried to tap it, nothing but a clunk still!

I will wait a bit until the parking lot is empty and swap the starter and see if that works. The only thing I can think of to try besides that is jumping the truck again, It seems like it has plenty of power and hasn't given me battery issues ever, but I am unsure how to tell without a voltmeter if the truck has enough power. The lights are not dim. Any other ideas before I swap this thing?

 

The clunk you hear when turning the key to start is most likely the solenoid activating. I'd say starter swap is a good move.

 

If it's turning over fast it should start, make sure fuel is at the filter shrader valve, and not air. If it's got air it won't start.

If it turns over slow with a good batt and a jump, well then that's your starter.

Make sure the spade connector at the front of the ip has 12 v.. When key on or your shut off solenoid won't open to run, I cringe but if you have no meter, briefly tap it to the pump body /metal to ensure there is a spark.

If it's got wet fuel and cranks moderate speed, and the pump gets 12v it will run, not sure about that saftey switch thingajigger thou I have 4sp.

Glad you were rescued, keep us posted - good luck..

 

The clunk I would think is the bendix engaging. Which means the starter motor it's self is what is not doing anything. Power making it to the starter and no ability to jump it to start it, means the starter is bad. Everything else has to check out for the starter to clunk even. Replace starter in the parking lot, and drive away

 

 

Its not the Neutral Safety. Clunk means everything up to the starter is working. Maybe your batteries are dead?

 

I pray it is something that simple! Now... I know this is a boot question. But if I get a voltmeter, how do I tell which battery is bad? You can haze me later, but I don't mind doing a midnight run to Walmart. One battery is 2 years old, the other could be anywhere from 3-15 years old? Lol...


Also.. what batteries do I need?

 

You can not tell with a volt meter. You need a batttery tester, as it can be at 12.8v and have 300cca. Which is not enough. Pull batteries, or try to jump it and see.

 

I hooked my wife's Subaru up to the passenger side battery for 20 minutes and it didn't help. The lights aren't dim though, like you said that one battery could be really old.

 

Yeah, one bad battery will drain the other. And a subaru might have 400 cca. Your truck should have 1600cca to draw from.