It's not going to be as bad as I thought as far as fitment...

And the price was cheaper than 4''...

But I agree its not needed....

 

Least I got a muffler lol

 

Pretty ridiculous lol... although in my defense it's not stack's lmfao

 

Got the fans installed... just waiting on some pigtails for the fans...


So I've been getting some feedback that I'm crazy trying to run fans that draw 70 amps... I've been chatting with Brian at dc control about the fans and his controller and chosing an alternator.... his response was:

I wouldn't even even worry about it, those fans are probably going to
draw less than 5A at idle. As the cfm requirement goes down, the
efficiency of the fans goes up:

power cfm noise

100% 100% 0db
50% 79.4% -5db
25% 63.0% -10db
12.5% 50.0% -15db
6.25% 39.7% -20db
3.125% 31.5% -25db

So at 2142 cfm total, which is probably around what you'll need at an
idle, the fans will draw about 2A

On the curve, lets say you set it at 180. At 176, the fan will start at
1%, the power will progressively increase to 100% by 183.

That's good news

I sorta felt that the fans won't be on much during daily driving... and if required have the ability to pull 7000cfm. at 5500cfm the fans will only draw 35 amps and I doubt I'll need even that for the most part. But if it's hot and I need to tow up a hill I'll have enough to cool the engine... I'm really happy he put me into using these fans.

On a side note the fans were less than a hundred bucks for each assembly... looking for used pigtails was fruitless soni had to buy new ones... there going to cost almost the same as one fan assembly lol... oh well

 

Pretty cool swap!! Looks like the electric fans will work out but I'm normally a fan ( ) of the mechanical variety, especially for towing. Maybe I missed it, but why the NV5600? They seem to be expensive as 6 speed transmissions go and I'm not sure how prevalent replacement parts will be in the future.

 

Thanks!

I was pretty disappointed to make the decision to go with efans... but I think I found a pretty good solution. Mechanical far superior for towing without a doubt...

Moving the engine back would have caused some problems with my shifter and downpipe and others... as it is I've had to fabricate and move the transmission crossmember back something like 12 inches back and the shifter 4'' back...

I haven't measured but the rear driveshaft is going to be probably a foot shorter and the front driveshaft a foot or more longer... the tail shaft of the transmission is I think past the cab lol... the whole assembly is freaking big!

I picked the nv5600 because I bought a 2001 dodge 3500 write off... and the nv5600 came with it. My truck was a zf5 speed and would have required an adapter plate and may not hold my power goal... and would have needed an adapter plate and custom clutch and clutch hydraulics. This way its all factory... including the clutch mc that I adapted to the Ford.

I've heard of difficulties getting parts for the nv5600. I think it depends on the year... also think the difficulty in getting parts was a problem years ago and most parts are reasonably available now... I'll find out soon as I'm getting the transmission rebuilt anyway.

But I think the nv5600 is a solid transmission and other than a g56 it's a reasonably strong transmission that should hold the 450hp I'm hoping to put to the ground.

And I like the idea of a 24v...

Everyone does the 12v. The thing with a 12v is that although its easy to get good hp#'s your stuck with it. I haven't owned a 400+ hp truck let alone driven one... but I do have friends with hopped up trucks and they all say it gets old driving a 4 or 500 hp truck in a rainy Wednesday when u just want to get to work lol... with my programmer I should be able to detune it to less than stock hp if I wanted... and with the mods I have... if the stars align... put 450hp to the ground

I'm excited!

 

The 5600 has a design flaw: getting lubrication to top of the transmission. The synchros tend to go out prematurely. Mine went out in the sixth gear at 50,000 miles. You can overfill the transmission to help prevent this issue.

 

Thanks...

I've read about that a little bit... when I get to installing the shifter boot and maybe shifter console I'm going to design it so it will be easy to remove as the only way to overfill it is through the shifter... at least that's what I remember reading somewhere...

I also saved some bookmarks for the transmission that I think talked about some other mods... I'll revisit when the time comes

 

So I got a good deal on a he351cw turbo and manifold off a 06 Cummins... actually made money with selling the 24v manifold and hx35 turbo ..

The he351cw is a popular upgrade on older engines and is good for 400+hp on the 24v.

The donor truck had a edge comp tuner which isn't a bad tuner but I wanted somthing with a bit more flexibility.

but some tuners require the pcm or there's not any information on if they will work with out one...

I've been talking to the guys at quadzilla and they've assured me that their programmer doesn't need the pcm to do its thing. I should add that the edge comp doesn't need the pcm either... There will be some information missing like milage and speed information for the quadzilla but the ability to have different tunes downloaded for engine performance isn't affected by a missing pcm.

So I've decided not to run the dodge pcm... well I hope I don't have to lol. There are a few threads that guys had to incorporate it into there build to get the engine running properly... but most of the information out there says you don't have to.

So he351cw and quadzilla with 100hp injectors... should be a fun truck!

Was disappointing to find out that the clutch to hold the 400+hp and 800+ torque is probably going to cost me 1500 bucks... I may be able to cut that down a bit but ya that's spendy lol...

Seems like everything is spendy on these trucks though... even the fuel system is going to be probably over a grand by the time its done... mmmm.... got to pay to play they say... so true lol.

 

Got some more work done on my crossmember... man I wish I had a drill press lol.

Basically its 5x2x.25'' tube with brackets on the inside of the frame.

I'm not a welder and I'm working with a flux core mig... but the welds have good penetration and I'll clean everything up and probably por15 them.

I think its strong enough...I hope its strong enough... lol... I used some bolts I had laying around for now... I'll end up with 1/2'' grade 8 bolts torqued to 105#'s... if this ends up cracking my frame I'll go to plan b and build a crew cab that I really wanted to do lol... but I think it'll be ok

 

So looks like I'm going to end up with a ujoint angle of 11°... anyone know if that's bad?

All I can find is that 3 degrees is optimal... and the max working angles... 20° max for the 1350 and 37° max for the 1410.

I don't know what is on the rear diff now but I can get a 1410 yoke for it...

 

When I need to refresh my self on Drive line angles I use this page
https://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billa...ft/index2.html

 

That's a good read...thanks...

here's another I've been reading... Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Driveline 101

Starting to think I'm ok with 11 degrees... obviously u joint life will be less...

 

Awesome thread! I'm subscribed to see more of the good work and ideas

Have you thought about using a double cardan shaft for the rear? As far as strength, it doesn't really sound like you'd lose anything while gaining smoother operation. You'd probably have to clock your rear end though.

I'm thinking I'll need to do that on mine when I add an overdrive.

 

Thanks!

Trying to make good decisions... I've been thinking about this swap for 10 years lol... but things don't always go as planned....

Ya I've been reading up on double cardan... my biggest worry is vibration and the DC would be the answer.

I haven't been able to determi how much I can tilt the 10.25 without issues... I hear if u do then u have to over fill it... but not alot of information that I've been able to find... I really don't like making decisions like that without knowing the outcome.

the 1410 joints are good for big angles... 35 degrees... and support my hp goals... 11 degrees is less than half their max operating angle... I might be fine with them... but at this point I don't have enough information ...

The answer may be to turn this into a crew cab long box project... that would give me some extra ds length... lmao...the engine and transmission assembly is 6'4 '' long!


I'm a long way from driveshafts... but I do need to get the angles right. Really wish I knew what the old motor sat at...

I think 3° down is good for transmission. My front axle pinion is 3 degrees up and will drop to like 2 or 1.5 under load... a little out of spec but have to be careful when shimming front axles. I can live with some vibrations for the few times and low speeds I drive in 4x4.