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One of the great things about new users is that they help refresh an old topic with new information....at least that's what I keep telling myself when I start a thread
My recently purchased 2001 7.3PSD 4x4 has stock wheels and brake systems. I plan to use the X as a tow vehicle for a 6000 lb Airstream. We are planning a weeklong trip in the Smokey's next spring and then possibly a longer multi-week trip out west to the Rockies in the summer. Improving the stopping power of the X is high on my list of objectives, but I don't need a top of the line upgrade for my purposes. Our planned trips/usage was one of the primary reasons for going with a diesel vs a V10 but that's a different topic. Once the rust infested rocker panels get taken care of, I'm planning to have ATS installed V/C code spring combinations. I haven't decided if I will go to 20" wheels yet or not...but for now I'm sticking with the 16" wheels. I only plan to keep the X for 5-7 years and then turn it over to the next proud owner (assuming rust doesn't consume it first). I'm guessing, but I wouldn't expect to put more than another 40K miles over that period of time.
The X needs new front calipers, rotors & pads and replacing the hoses wouldn't hurt. I've read through many of what appears to be the most recent authoritative threads/posts on the topic(s). The last length full brake discussion appears to be from last November. This one is from October: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...upgrade-2.html This recent thread provides an excellent technical background on rotors: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ke-rotors.html
Here's my summary of the most discussed options that I've gleaned:
On SS braided lines: jury out on whether they add any noticeable benefit or improvement, though many have added them and swear it does. I'm going to pass on these.
Calipers: Other than SSBC, just about all the calipers listed are forged in China. Not sure about TCE
OEM - lowest cost, mostly remanufactured, OEM braking power and may provide added longevity
Powerstop - comparable in cost to OEM, but come in sexy red powder coating, added braking power over OEM with possibly shorter longevity. Remanufactured in the USA
SSBC - 2-3x the cost of OEM/Powerstop calipers, made from aluminum, added braking power over both OEM & Powerstop. I didn't find any references to longevity. Manufactured in NY
TCE - 10x the cost of OEM calipers, high performance braking but beyond my budget, far exceeding my objectives, and required going to 20" wheels so I stopped reading.
Rotors: EBC rotors are forged in UK and all others from China. SSBC uses multiple sources from China & EU.
OEM - summary of the OEM rotors: "they're junk" - ok maybe that's not entirely fair, but I didn't see anyone praising or swearing by their OEM rotors, though I'm sure they are on many of the X's and do the job.
Powerstop - combined with the 1-click kit offer by Powerstop seems to be a motivating factor for their usage on X's here
EBC (premium) - several members have indicated they are using EBC rotors with and without EBC pads.
Power Slot - not StopTech
Fozen Rotor - 60 hr cryo treated Ultra Premium Raybestos rotor, Power Slot available with the same treatment. both available with or without slotted
ART - I've only found very limited recent information on the these and the phone number on their website says disconnected.
Pads
OEM
Powerstop
Hawk (LTS & SuperDuty) - Appear to be the favored pads among X members.
EBC
While I was initially leaning toward the marketing ease of a 1-click Powerstop solution, I'm currently leaning toward SSBC calipers, PowerSlot (cryo treated) or Frozen Rotors (1247FZR), and Hawk SuperDuty pads.
I plan to use the X as a tow vehicle for a 6000 lb Airstream. We are planning a weeklong trip in the Smokey's next spring and then possibly a longer multi-week trip out west to the Rockies in the summer.
Improving the stopping power of the X is high on my list of objectives,
I only plan to keep the X for 5-7 years, I wouldn't expect to put more than another 40K miles over that period of time.
I think what you are currently feeling is a substantially worn braking system with old, probably moisture laden brake fluid. A full system flush with quality fresh fluid, new hoses (either rubber or braided), new pads of your choice (and there are choices), new decent rotors and maybe rebuilt calipers if needed should bring it back up to a pretty decently performing braking system without any super high end or expensive parts. I tow a TT that scales at twice your Streamer's weight and have enjoyed completely acceptable braking performance for over 38K towing miles. I did have my local shop put new brakes on it last year during the annual safely inspection as I was working a bit of overtime and didn't feel like coming home to work out in the cold some more. They installed the mid-grade NAPA pads up front and I really don't like them, a noticeable reduction in stopping feel, still OK but not as good as they were, I will be replacing them with something with a bit better grip, I don't care about dust. A complete refresh of your braking system should serve you well for the mentioned time and mileage I would think, my prior pads lasted 50K miles.
Our planned trips/usage was one of the primary reasons for going with a diesel vs a V10 but that's a different topic.
Off topic here, but Id like to hear your thoughts on this, a topic I'm always interested in as a heavy towing gasser owner. There is no right or wrong answers to that choice, I'm just curious about the factors that lead folks to their decisions in both camps. I can see the merits of both gas and PSD and had my own reasons that dictated my pick.
Your summary is sorta accurate in that you copied a few often repeated internet myths.
1. SSBC calipers, , same clamping force ( stopping power ) as stock, they eliminate the slide pin arrangement of stock is their main diffrence, Well that and they look cool.
2. Power stop calipers are just rebuilt OEM units that are painted red to look cool.
3. Power stop rotors are made in Chicago USA and very good quality.
4. Motorcraft rotors are the highest quality rotors available for the Ex even thought they are made in China ( by TRW who is the OEM )
5. If you still have the original Ford calipers it is worth buying a motorcraft rebuild kit and rebuilding them yourself,
Somewhat speculation but ford uses a prioriety phenolic piston that seems to be probamatic in other big box store rebuilt calipers.
Ways to improve braking, increase clamping force by changing piston sizes on caliper, TCE kit uses wilwood calipers and does this, it will cost you about $3000 per axle. Second way is to increase rotor diameter which increase the heat sink, TCE kit also does this as well as swapping in a newer 2007 f-250 axle.
the third and most cost effective method is increase the coffecient of fricton by using diffrent pads. EBC is a popular choice as are Hawk LTS pads.
Last two weeks Ive performed a front brake job and rear brake job on my new to me Excursion. Found I had a pretty significant pull to the left when applying the brakes. Front brakes found to be near metal to metal on left side and 3-4mm right side. Front rotors appeared to be aftermarket but measure in-spec for thickness so I cut them and replaced with Motorcraft pads. Replaced slide pins kits for both caliper brackets. Both front calipers appear to be Ford remanufactured units.
Road test after front brake job found that I still had a pull to the left. Under advice from the forum, I inspected and found the rear brakes were near metal on the right rear with frozen slide pins. Purchased new Motorcraft rear pads, brackets and slide pins kits. Rotors still ok to cut. Significantly improved the pull condition, but it still remains. I have not noticed any signs that i have busted or weeping brake lines going to the R/F brake system. Rear brake lines dont look great, but no signs of leaking to either rear caliper.
I need to do a more thorough inspection on the R/F hard lines, but I suspect I may have a collapse of the interior R/F brake hose causing reduced braking pressure to the caliper. Only thing that can explain the difference in pad thicknesses that I can tell unless 2 other things are occurring:
There's either a physical failure or restriction from the (or in the) ABS module for the R/F circuit, or I have a busted hard line. Assuming my visual this weekend doesnt find any issues with the hardline, Im going to replace the rubber hose and flush the brake fluid. I dont suspect that I have a suspension issue, ball joints dont look new but seem to have been replaced in the past. I have no detectable play in the spindles. front hubs appear to be free of play as well. Front leafs are upgraded F350 units. Ill keep the forum updated with what I find in a separate thread.
1. SSBC calipers, , same clamping force ( stopping power ) as stock, they eliminate the slide pin arrangement of stock is their main diffrence, Well that and they look cool.
Thanks, I reread one of the earlier threads where you provided this same analysis in much detail which I somehow missed on the first read through.
A full system flush with quality fresh fluid, new hoses (either rubber or braided), new pads of your choice (and there are choices), new decent rotors and maybe rebuilt calipers if needed should bring it back up to a pretty decently performing braking system without any super high end or expensive parts.
Thanks! Good advice and that’s the general plan (fluid fush and replace hoses included). I have found a local shop that will allow me to purchase the parts and they are ok with doing the install. Unfortunately, there are too many other projects going on in parallel to do this work myself.
Are you using rebuilt calipers from NAPA as well? calipers you rebuilt? or aftermarket calipers?
In searching up the Frozen Rotor part numbers I came across their calipers. Rep indicated the product has been available for 10 years, uses steel pistons, forged new in the US (Chicago) and are not rebuilds. Will post the tech sheet when I receive it. Pricing is 2x Powerstop calipers and 1/3 of SSBC.
Our calipers are new and NOT rebuilt so you don’t have to worry about sending us your caliper cores. We have the calipers zinc plated for extra corrosion protection and we install high temperature piston seals with a double lip to keep out debris and to give them resistant’s to heat. They include all the hardware and caliper grease for a hassle free install. Sold in pairs.
we could debate the usefulness of cryogenically treated parts until the cows come home and still have no real answers because while it does in fact align some grain structure there is no real measurment for the toughness it supposedly increases. Some racers swear by it others think it is snake oil.
Regardless if you do or don’t cryo it is totally the wrong thing to be focused on when selecting a rotor. The number one thing you should be concerned with is “Run Out” of the brand new rotor, measuring this with a dial indicator when you install them will tell you more about the quality then anything else. “Cryo” in my opinion is just a marketing buzz word to lull the ill informed into thinking it is a quality part. Cryo is NOT going to make a poor quality rotor into anything other then a more expensive poor quality rotor.
The real key to a quality rotor is how they cool the part during manufacturing, The method to produce the best part takes time and cost more, it’s what was originally on your Ex. ( TRW is the rotor OEM not Raybeatos )
Thanks! Good advice and that’s the general plan (fluid fush and replace hoses included). I have found a local shop that will allow me to purchase the parts and they are ok with doing the install. Unfortunately, there are too many other projects going on in parallel to do this work myself.
Are you using rebuilt calipers from NAPA as well? calipers you rebuilt? or aftermarket calipers?
Are you using Cryo treated rotors?
I'm very familiar with being too busy with other things in life to set the time aside to tackle some vehicle jobs, I don't like it, but it does happen. I'm also very fortunate to have a great family run mechanic shop right at the end of my street, they treat us right and never try to upsell any job, when they do find something I get a call asking if I want to take care of it myself or have them do it.
I bought my EX used with 65K miles from a dealer that specializes in Super Duty trucks, they told me it had new Motorcraft pads all around at that time, no idea if the rotors were changed then too. At 112K my local shop turned the front rotors and installed the NAPA pads I mentioned (I picked the mid grade for some stupid reason ) but the calipers are all still untouched from when I bought it, I have only cleaned and relubed the slide pins twice in my 8.5 years of ownership.
My trouble free brakes are partly due to how the EX gets used I think, it sits unused until it's trip time then it will typically see a couple thousand miles, mostly towing in a couple of weeks then it sits again, there are also several shorter towing trips for long weekends away throughout the camping season, but no daily driving. I would imagine that my brake applications per miles traveled is far less than what a daily driver would see, but at 19+K lbs combined while towing they do see some heat when used.
My trouble free brakes are partly due to how the EX gets used I think, it sits unused until it's trip time then it will typically see a couple thousand miles, mostly towing in a couple of weeks then it sits again, there are also several shorter towing trips for long weekends away throughout the camping season, but no daily driving.
Our usage patterns will likely be very similar to yours. Unfortunately the X drifts right on hard breaking at highway speeds, calipers are leaking fluid, and rotors are rusted & heavily pitted so I don’t think I’m able to get away without replacements. I’d like to have this done once and done right for our intended usage.
As with many projects, I’ve probably spent more time getting acquainted with the known issues, options and products than it would actually take to do the job.
I will only use cryo treated rotors on the front of the Ex, with Hawk LTS pads.
Back in 2005 when I was researching brakes because of the shimmy/pulse I couldn't eliminated (see the tech folder regarding cementite/black spotting), I learned about cryo treated rotors. With cryo treated rotors, I never had the shimy come back, but when I tried non-cryo'd rotors a couple years back (on a whim), the shimmy/pulse came back.
For the rear brakes, I use Centric OEM replacement rotors with any quality brake pad, like Wagner.
I had brand new cyro'd rotors front and rear on a '91 Turbo Supra that *regularly* saw 130MPH and more plus heavy braking when the modded V1 gave notice - I put 100k on those rotors, at least three sets of carbon-kevlar pads, maybe more. Daily driver and weekend track car. Six years and those rotors were never out of shape and didn't go below spec. No complaints about the way it stopped. I can't say it was the cryo or if they were just good rotors to begin with, but I would consider the process again when upgrading a "keeper" car like the Ex is.
I will only use cryo treated rotors on the front of the Ex, with Hawk LTS pads.
Back in 2005 when I was researching brakes because of the shimmy/pulse I couldn't eliminated (see the tech folder regarding cementite/black spotting), I learned about cryo treated rotors. With cryo treated rotors, I never had the shimy come back, but when I tried non-cryo'd rotors a couple years back (on a whim), the shimmy/pulse came back.
For the rear brakes, I use Centric OEM replacement rotors with any quality brake pad, like Wagner.
Stewart
What he said.
I first went with Ford stuff, pads and rotors... and wasn't happy with braking results and the eventual shimmy, as Stewart noted. I now have 25K of heavy towing with excellent results. Cryo rotors and Hawk (green) pads, rebuilt calipers, and all SS lines.
If I had the coin and the need, I would upgrade the whole system, but I'm content with what I have towing 10K.
My personal experience suggests a good look at your existing steel lines, especially the one over the rear diff. I replaced all of mine with stainless steel. I also had one of my rear rubber lines fail internally and acted like a check valve, causing my rear caliper to stick, so i replaced all 5 rubber lines with stainless steel reinforced lines, which helped with a better pedal feel (subjective). As noted... if you have time rebuilding your calipers is very, very easy and recommended. DOT 4 fluid.
I went back over the PO’s records; the front calipers (ACDELCO) were installed in 2014 and have less than 25k miles on them. Seems early to be leaking fluids.
12-13-2018, 05:00 PM
) but the calipers are all still untouched from when I bought it, I have only cleaned and relubed the slide pins twice in my 8.5 years of ownership. 
