When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have 2015 f250 4X4 I need to replace front rotors and was wondering if it's like older trucks, where once the caliper is removed to rotor just pops off?
Agreed...and check the caliper bracket slide pins for good in/out movement. If not relube or replace. Or you'll be doing pads and rotors again in 5 months.
These EXTREMELY poorly designed pins need to be checked annually or sooner if you are in the rust belt. Copper anti-seize seems to work if you can get the seized pin out.
(These really need to be SS304 with 304 sleeves and a zerk. Problem solved. Hello Henry anyone home yet? We've been on this train since 1999.)
Agreed...and check the caliper bracket slide pins for good in/out movement. If not relube or replace. Or you'll be doing pads and rotors again in 5 months.
These EXTREMELY poorly designed pins need to be checked annually or sooner if you are in the rust belt. Copper anti-seize seems to work if you can get the seized pin out.
(These really need to be SS304 with 304 sleeves and a zerk. Problem solved. Hello Henry anyone home yet? We've been on this train since 1999.)
Well almost caliper and then caliper bracket then rotor and good to go.
Want to add that depending on where you are the rotor could be rusted to the hub. A good 5lb hammer should rectify that if you don't plan on using the rotors again. The 1st time I did my 2004 I needed the big boy - the 25lb sledge to break the thing loose. If you have this issue you may want to get some sandpaper or emery paper to take the rust off the hub. I'll probably get killed for this but I usually put a fair amount of wheel bearing grease on the hub before putting the new rotor on so I don't have the problem next brake change.
have not done the grease thing on my truck, 2 wd so it all one HEAVY piece, but on my hyundai elantras will emery cloth the surface and run a finger of grease on it as well.. don't see a big issue with a slight bit of grease on the surface to help prevent rust weld issue.. the rotor is not going to slip as the wheel stud go through it.. and yes FORD is not all that smart it seem on these crapy brake designs especially on 4x4 which do more in snow, and salt areas of the US.
Originally Posted by Chuck-B
Want to add that depending on where you are the rotor could be rusted to the hub. A good 5lb hammer should rectify that if you don't plan on using the rotors again. The 1st time I did my 2004 I needed the big boy - the 25lb sledge to break the thing loose. If you have this issue you may want to get some sandpaper or emery paper to take the rust off the hub. I'll probably get killed for this but I usually put a fair amount of wheel bearing grease on the hub before putting the new rotor on so I don't have the problem next brake change.