I have a 1965 F100 longbed that I am in the process of stripping by sanding and chemical. At this point the vehicle does not appear to need rust repair. I have never painted or done bodywork on a vehicle and figured it was time to give it a try. I am having difficulty finding information on the process I should follow and the product brand to use. I restored a 71 SS454 Chevelle 25 years ago. All glass, emblems, mirrors, bumpers, interior, sills removed and stripped the car to bare metal via bead blast then the paint shop did the rest (lucky no rust repair was needed ). They used self etching primer and did all the steps in between paint to make the car look new. What type and brand of primer should I use? What type and brand of paint? What fillers to use? I do not expect a show quality finish but I will take my time to do things correctly and fortunately may have a spray booth to use for actual paint application

I tried to attach photos but for some reason they will not show up....

Anyway any advice is welcome and if you are in the Southern New Hampshire are and want to come help I will provide the beer or Scotch

 

The best recommendation I can give is to use the same brand of products throughout the process......chemical compatibility is the greatest issue with paints and their finishes....each mfg also has different "grades" so to speak..... so get the best grade of paint you can afford. I am a fan of PPG but Sherwin Williams has excellent paint as well.... but for ease of supply and future "touch-ups" I would just local a local autopaint supply store and as long as it is a name brand, you should be in very good shape. It is also important to buy paints/supplies locally because there are different reducers/catylists that must be used depending of climatic conditions at the time of application....super important here!!!!!!!

 

As stated in the last post if you have a local automotive paint store that is probably the way to go. But if you have to travel very far to get supplies these folks might be the way to go. https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/ They have a good reputation with restorers. I have used their epoxy primers and was very pleased with them. The tech support is second to none, if you call you will get the owner.

 

I used the Southern Polyurethane epoxy primer and top coats on 2 trucks recently and recommend them highly. They have a Technical Manual that has details on all of their products, and their on-line forum has hundreds of tips and how-tos and debates about how to get the best job. If they don't have a dealer near you, they ship free and the taxes are up to you and your tax advisor. If you like red, black or white, they have some of the best formulas you will ever see. I am an equal opportunity recommender; if the stuff gives good results for the money spent, I like it.

 

So far good information given.
Yes try and find a local supplier, once you get to know each other it becomes easier to get information.
They will help you on everything you need and what will work with what.

I am old school trained and a lot of the supplies I trained on & use you cant get any longer.
I like lacquer (single stage) primer I just cant find it in a dark gray (black) and that is what I started my project on.
If I switch color now it will change the final paint color of that area.

If I was to go with a 2K primer (2 stage / hardner) you have to use what you mix or throw it out. It cant be added back to the can because the whole can will become hard.
The other big thing is you have to wear protection equipment head to toe because this sh11 is deadly.

Now with that out of the way what kind of equipment do you have?
Better have a vary good compressor with filter and air dryer.

You don't have to have the vary best spray guns. Just a few years ago I went with HVLP guns and still learning them. I have the 3 gun starting line kit from Eastwood that I use for painting, don't like it for priming.
I use an old school Binks #7 for priming and a knock off of it (Jet?) for frame painting.
I also have all the other air powered body tools a body shop would have.

Last thing you said "stripping by sanding and chemical" you may want to rethink that chemical part.
If you DO NOT get it all off / neutralized it will react to anything you put over it. It may not be today but it will react!

Good luck
Dave ----

 

Go with PPG and if you are in Southern NH these guys are great Fisher Auto Parts 50 E Hollis St, Nashua, NH.