7.3 underhaul
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 41
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From: Madras
7.3 underhaul
Iam getting ready to pull the engine out of the 96 to fix several leaks like the oil cooler seals, oil pan seal, both main seals, dipstick adaptor o ring, turbo o rings, hpop o rings, water pump and radiator and a couple other things but while Iam there i was planning on rolling new rod a main bearings in and i was wondering if someone could tell me if i need to replace the rotating assembly bolts and when I torque the main and rod bolts if i need to use 30 weight oil or just go clean and dry on the threads. On deere engines I’ve rebuilt before all this info is in the tech book but the haynes book i have for the 7.3 is kinda lacking in the real important info. Thanks
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,524
Likes: 2,028
From: North Texas
This will help - https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94...an/stjmain.htm Also, make sure to post pictures please. We love vehicle ****.
Do valve springs while the engine is out.
Consider e-fuel while this deep. EGT bung if you do not have one. Make sure those uppipes are not leaking.
Do valve springs while the engine is out.
Consider e-fuel while this deep. EGT bung if you do not have one. Make sure those uppipes are not leaking.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 41
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From: Madras
It tested great on the compression test and dosnt have much blow by and it doesn’t burn oil so Iam not going to pull the heads or the pistons just want to check the bearings. Ive got all new seals and o rings and gaskets its getting a water pump and hpop gaskets and o rings and a riff raff 4-4 turbo wheel
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2013
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From: Madras
Plus i dont have plans in the future for high rps and high boost so i dont really think i need new valve springs or head studs
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,524
Likes: 2,028
From: North Texas
You would be surprised how beat to **** high mile heads are on these, factory springs are very weak stock with age even worse...mine were in the low 70s for seat pressure at factory height! Not including worn seats and as the seats plus valves wear, you have less and less seat pressure. Mine were so clapped out, I could spin the spring on the seat BY HAND. Put boost on the backside of the valve and you can easily have them crack open. I turn same RPM as stock, but my valvetrain stability and ability to rev is totally different than stock. For $100 or so with shims, why would you not at this point? I recommend it to anyone with one of these trucks. With the engine out, you will be able to do them really fast. It also helps resale if you had to for some reason.
Do injector orings while it is all apart and consider injector shims too, if they are the original sticks. My cold starts are quite a bit easier now, for $75 it cannot be easier than now.
Also, budget a fresh LPOP while access is easy. I went with Melling as it comes recommended by everyone.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 10
From: oklahoma
Unless you are having oil pressure problems I'd not worry about the bearings.. I've pulled motors apart with 300000 miles on them and could use the bearings over again. These things are not hard on bearings unless you abuse them.
But like stated before if your going to do them anyway you may as well do rings and heads
Just my opinion tho..
I'm doing 1 right now and I've done some of the stuff mentioned Pistons rings bearings valve springs heads all o rings and seals
But like stated before if your going to do them anyway you may as well do rings and heads
Just my opinion tho..
I'm doing 1 right now and I've done some of the stuff mentioned Pistons rings bearings valve springs heads all o rings and seals
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Madras
You would be surprised how beat to **** high mile heads are on these, factory springs are very weak stock with age even worse...mine were in the low 70s for seat pressure at factory height! Not including worn seats and as the seats plus valves wear, you have less and less seat pressure. Mine were so clapped out, I could spin the spring on the seat BY HAND. Put boost on the backside of the valve and you can easily have them crack open. I turn same RPM as stock, but my valvetrain stability and ability to rev is totally different than stock. For $100 or so with shims, why would you not at this point? I recommend it to anyone with one of these trucks. With the engine out, you will be able to do them really fast. It also helps resale if you had to for some reason.
Do injector orings while it is all apart and consider injector shims too, if they are the original sticks. My cold starts are quite a bit easier now, for $75 it cannot be easier than now.
Also, budget a fresh LPOP while access is easy. I went with Melling as it comes recommended by everyone.
Do injector orings while it is all apart and consider injector shims too, if they are the original sticks. My cold starts are quite a bit easier now, for $75 it cannot be easier than now.
Also, budget a fresh LPOP while access is easy. I went with Melling as it comes recommended by everyone.
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Madras
This will help - https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94...an/stjmain.htm Also, make sure to post pictures please. We love vehicle ****.
Do valve springs while the engine is out.
Consider e-fuel while this deep. EGT bung if you do not have one. Make sure those uppipes are not leaking.
Do valve springs while the engine is out.
Consider e-fuel while this deep. EGT bung if you do not have one. Make sure those uppipes are not leaking.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
Likes: 75
From: Plankinton, SD
If you do decide to do the bearings, I would not replace any rod bolts. Anytime new rod bolts are used you should get the rods resized. I would clean everything good, a little oil on the threads and torque to spec.