Bad Battery?
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Bad Battery?
Listen to this. My wife has a 2008 expedition. She drove it to her doctors apointment last thursday morning no problems. Went to leave no start / doesnt crank at all. Tow truck shows up throws a jump pack on it. Still the same not turning over. Battery is 2 years old no problems with starting even when 3 weeks ago it was 15 degrees out. The day it happened it started after sitting all night and was 30 degrees in the morning. Drove it for 30 minutes there. Was inside for 15 min. Then it wont start. Service writter at ford dealer called said it need a battery. What do you think?
Post Fiend
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
It's certainly possible, while a 2 year old battery "shouldn't" fail, it happens. It's important that the alternator and charging system is tested, that it is not defective. A bad alternator will soon ruin a good battery, and the reverse can also be true.
Another problem is what are called "phantom loads" or parasitic amp draw. Sometimes a relay will stick, or some engine gee-gaw will continue to draw a small current on a constant basis instead of shutting down like it is supposed to. Aftermarket stereos are also sometimes a problem with this, rear windshield wipers, security systems, etc. An excess current draw won't necessarily kill a battery overnight, but the battery will tend to be under charged and it won't last long. Like say, about 2 years. It's usually expensive to have work performed at a dealer, so make sure they are doing what you're paying them to do. Make sure alternator is charging correctly, and have them make sure there aren't any devices drawing down the battery when everything is shutdown. Some of the electronic modules take as much as a half hour or more to completely shutdown before an amp draw test can be accurately taken.
Another problem is what are called "phantom loads" or parasitic amp draw. Sometimes a relay will stick, or some engine gee-gaw will continue to draw a small current on a constant basis instead of shutting down like it is supposed to. Aftermarket stereos are also sometimes a problem with this, rear windshield wipers, security systems, etc. An excess current draw won't necessarily kill a battery overnight, but the battery will tend to be under charged and it won't last long. Like say, about 2 years. It's usually expensive to have work performed at a dealer, so make sure they are doing what you're paying them to do. Make sure alternator is charging correctly, and have them make sure there aren't any devices drawing down the battery when everything is shutdown. Some of the electronic modules take as much as a half hour or more to completely shutdown before an amp draw test can be accurately taken.
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thats what i thought as well. I told them to retest the battery and i want to see the print out. It still has a ford esp on it. In my brain though im like if the battery is dead check the charging system. It was running 15 min earlier. Also couldnt figure out why a JUMP PACK wouldnt start it either. Seems like a bad wire to me, power or ground wire to the starter itself. Dealer also stated that it has a failsafe to not start if to low of power. Ive never seen that before. My titan does something like that but it still cranks but if voltage is down ecu doesnt turn on thus no ignition.
Anyone else ever had this issue? Any techs out there want to chime in?
Anyone else ever had this issue? Any techs out there want to chime in?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Batteries can fail without warning, "running 15 minutes earlier" doesn't mean much as far as that goes. "Batteries die in July, they just don't fall over till December". Hot weather is hard on them. Cold weather reduces capacity.
If they tell you the battery is bad, you'll have to take their word for it, unless you've a way to test it yourself. Tell them you want the old battery back, you'll have to pay the core charge, maybe $10 or something like that. See if they hem and haw more than anything. Then charge it up and have it load tested somewhere else. Many auto parts and farm & fleet type stores will do this for free.
If they tell you the battery is bad, you'll have to take their word for it, unless you've a way to test it yourself. Tell them you want the old battery back, you'll have to pay the core charge, maybe $10 or something like that. See if they hem and haw more than anything. Then charge it up and have it load tested somewhere else. Many auto parts and farm & fleet type stores will do this for free.
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Before blaming the battery you have a neutral safety switch (DTR) sensor and a starter relay on the firewall. Each of which if fails will keep the starter from turning no matter how good the battery is. If the battery was dead I would think the jump pack would have at least caused the Bendix solenoid to click.
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Have had the truck since 2013. purchased a 3 year with it then purchased another 3 year before that one expired. Both are the platinum level (highest level). They will let you buy an esp as long as it has less than 100k on the clock. We have another year or 6k left. Warranty has definitely paid for itself.
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Before blaming the battery you have a neutral safety switch (DTR) sensor and a starter relay on the firewall. Each of which if fails will keep the starter from turning no matter how good the battery is. If the battery was dead I would think the jump pack would have at least caused the Bendix solenoid to click.
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If it is covered, why are you beating them up over the battery? Worst case is you get a 2 year newer battery, best case is you get a 2 year newer battery and it solves the problem. I drove one of my Expeditions for 3 hours and pulled off for gas. It went from not an issue to dead as a doornail. Drove it another 80k without an issue before I sold it.
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If it is covered, why are you beating them up over the battery? Worst case is you get a 2 year newer battery, best case is you get a 2 year newer battery and it solves the problem. I drove one of my Expeditions for 3 hours and pulled off for gas. It went from not an issue to dead as a doornail. Drove it another 80k without an issue before I sold it.
also to add all interior functions worked and while trying to start voltage gauge didn't move, it stayed still right in the middle where it should. Radio didn't reset or nothing (which happens in most vehicles when the battery is totally drawn down while trying to start.
Last edited by shaneomac78; Dec 4, 2018 at 08:31 PM. Reason: Spelling
Post Fiend
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
also to add all interior functions worked and while trying to start voltage gauge didn't move, it stayed still right in the middle where it should. Radio didn't reset or nothing (which happens in most vehicles when the battery is totally drawn down while trying to start.
I've never warrantied a battery in my life, when they die I go buy a new one. If it failed at under 2 years that might be different I guess. They used to prorate the remaining warranty onto the cost of a new one. So if a "7 year" battery fails after 2 years a new battery should be discounted. But as you mention, not at a dealer.
A multimeter and a full size battery charger will both pay for themselves pretty quickly. And you won't be at the mercy of someone else's opinion on what's going on.
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Talked to the service coordinator today. While checking out the starter the tech moved the cables around and the main power feed fell out of its connector. They are going to fix that and retest the battery.
Post Fiend
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Fleet Owner
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Well that certainly explains why the jump pack didn't help.
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