Well, transfer slots are not ok as I said they were. Almost fully exposed and throttle blades will not close further no matter what. So gonna mess with the blades to see if I can get them to close further. Also the float level was too high and the engine actually sounded better as I turned the fuel level down. Then I went to the rear sight plug and fuel poured literally from it. WTH? All new parts from Napa/Echelin and this. I don't get how any of this changed in a couple of weeks but it sure did. Idle circuit passages are open so that much is verified. For grins I closed off the opening of the PCV valve and the vacuum signal jump two inches. Tells me that valve (New) is whacked. I keep reading about two stage PCV valves and may go with one-Actually I am forced to, once I get the transfer slots dealt with even if I have to buy another complete throttle base plate. Or jack up the radiator cap and drive another truck under it.

 

Worked out the problems today. Rear float bowl I could not adjust the level as it kept pouring out the sight plug hole. So installed another new needle and seat assembly-no change, Put another new one in it same bs. Swapped out a rear fuel bowl from a parts Holley 600cfm and put a stop to to uncontrolled fuel pouring out. That left the primary throttle blades exposing the transfer slot to deal with. Dinked with the throttle plates and actually got the blades to close properly with just a "Square" of the TS exposed. So now the transition is smooth and no dying. Also either idle mix screw will now kill the engine and both now operate as designed. That leaves the curb idle-which according to my book calls for 580 rpms in gear. This truck has a tight torque convertor so only a 200 rpm spread between park and in gear as shown on my Fluke 88 meter. For now I am gonna call this fixed but the smog station will be the decider on that when the time comes.

 

 

This reminds me allot of the issue I had with my truck. Stock rebuilt 460 with an RV cam in my '77 F150. Bought a summit 750cfm carb brand new. Installed, did the happy set up stuff and it ran and idled...okay.

The idle was never any good. Only idled well with the timing way off it's Mark. The idle screws only kind of worked .the vacuum was always super low .

Replaced the intake gasket (factory intake) three times with different types. No fix. Disconnected all vacuum accessories. No fix. Didn't have another carb to replace it with, so in I went for another surgery. This wasn't my first carb rodeo, but it was certainly an adventure.

First I rebuilt the carb with a summit rebuild kit. What a rip off. $65 for a rebranded Holley kit I could've gotten anywhere else. Rebuilt the carb, set the floats, reinstalled. No change.

Then it hit me. It was dribbling gas internally. Turns out my secondaries were held open by an adjustment screw located in the side of the carb. As soon as I got them closed over, the idle screws worked and the idle improved 10x!

The low vacuum was another story. While fixing the idle bumped it up, it still wasn't satisfactory. 15" on a stock engine with an RV cam? I'd unplug the PCV and the vacuum would immediately jump up to 17.5". The ultimate fix there was plugging the PCV into the intake directly and plugging the port for it on the carb. Now she starts, runs and idles better than it did new!