i bought it work at a dealership a guy traded it in said it started acting like this he parked it been there a couple years so I took it on trade and bought from the dealership at a super low price. So no test have been done dude just assumed and thanks I’ll run a compression on each cylinder then take a look under valve cover.. thanks so much just gave me all the guidance I needed I didn’t know where to start I’ll keep posting as I do stuff once again thanks

 

 

 

 

 

New one on me. I'm a Land survey guy. I see this kid driving an 08 sd diesel. He's hauling a 18 ft dump trailer going down a power line.

I saw him pulling the same rig last week and he said his truck was constantly in regen. I told him I had spare egt sens if he wanted to see if that was the problem.

In front of my eyes, he went over a stump and wrapped the entire exhaust under his rear axle from the dpf back.

Including the sensors 2 and 3.

Truck had no codes, ran better as per him, and no more regen with a straight thru exhaust. Sounded like a prison alarm, but notably, it ran very smooth.

JS


Denny

 

 

I see him oddly in the forest. I should let him know.

So with out the dpf, and no tune it will still regen, even if not commanded?

He strait piped after that, haven't seen him since. He's probably toast lol. (and I don't think he replaced the sensors.)


Thanx Fritz

Denny

 

BTW, I didn't look at his dash for SES.

 

 

 

you are going to need to down load the manual to get the proper rocker torque procedure and the correct torque and tolerances.

why do you need to do this and you should not try to crank a dry fuel system as the HPFP is lubed using fuel and dry cranking will cause fuel pump wear which will be very expensive to fix. when everything is reassembled , do the 6 cycle of the fuel pump on and off procedure (with key on but not in start mode...go to the shreader valve on fuel cooler and push the pin until fuel comes out...do the 6 on (for 20 seconds each on) an off cycle after you blead the shreader valve.

if you have not ordered the push rods yet, you should buy the stage 1 chrome moly rods a few folks sell. brand does not matter as long as they are stage 1. stage 1's have thicker tube walls and will not bend.

there is a procedure to rotate the crank to do rocker torque. this is to prevent a lifter that is pressurized with oil from bending a rod.. If you have trouble with this procedure as I did, my crank would not turn by hand....you will have to let the lifters bleed their oil....what I did was to partially install all the rockers, rods, saddles, enough to keep everything in place. then I went thru and snugged all the bolts evenly rotating across all the bolts on both sides ....when I felt the bolts get just start to get tight. I stopped on each bolt. I let the rockers sit for 15 minutes. Then started to torque them 1 at a time starting with 10 , waiting 15 minute, upping the torque wrench another 10...tighten each bolt...wait 15 more minutes...repeat until you get to your final torque. This way the oil bleeds out of the lifters and you don't bend a push rod. if you can manually turn the crank....that is the preferred procedure.

when I removed my oil fill unit (which has the case vent) I cracked the line that goes from the case vent to the block (this is a oil recovery line). I had to trim both ends and install a rubber hose with clamps on both sides. check that.

you never answered my question about if you have a seal or spacer on your engine that goes into the holes on the valve cover where the fuel line to the fuel rail goes thru. mine did not have one and I am getting smoke on both sides thru this hole. the next time I take my cover off, Im going to invent some kind of seal. if yours has a seal or spacer can you post a pic so I can investigate.

go down to autozone or what ever parts store you use and by some assembly lube and put the lube on all the tips, saddles, both ends of push rods, etc.

also, you have to do something about your clogged cat converter....its going to go right into wrench mode if you do not resolve and your going to think your rocker job got all screwed up. I would pull the DPF and soak it in solvent for a few days using a plastic kitchen trash can. you can buy a few gallons of parts cleaner, use diesel, kerosene, etc. I would not use gasoline as that is very combustible. or if you can find someone that does it...you can send it out to have it baked. or buy a new or used one.