where do I start?
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
where do I start?
I just bought a 08 f450 king ranch guy traded in. Owned a few 7.3s fixed from everyone’s help. Well at a loss on this one it will not do anything with key turned not anti theft did notice odometer reads nothing but if I jump the starter at the wire by battery it fires right up... next guy said it needs engine from my reading hoping maybe some rockerarms broke or something runs ruff af but more of a lobe coming from top of engine than a knock to me so any advise on what to do here would be much appreciated it’s throwing tons of codes ,P246C,p2463,po405,po272,po263,po308,p1335,p1000 also has a edge programmer on it and the guy said it has set for 2 years so yay idk where to start was planning on pulling valve covers and looking when I get time.. posting videos and pics of it will let me thanks guys
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14,301
Likes: 2,197
Drain the oil, measure how much you drained. Refill with good oil
0308. Do a compression test. If 0 the engine is toast. And you should stop. Did some already do this test and tell you this?
if compression test is good....for the 246c - remove the dpf and have it cleaned, replaced, or if you want to invest in a few gallons of parts cleaner you could soak it using a tall kitchen trash can . Soak it for a few days.
the 0405 is a common problem on the 08’s . Start buy buying a new #3 egt sensor
You are in reduced power mode becuase of the dpf. The 0273 and 0263 could be the root cuase. This could be clogged injectors, worn rocker tips, dropped rocker ball, bent push rods, lifter problems, can lobe problems. If the compression test checks out ok, you can try to clean the injectors by removing the engine bay fuel filter cover, pour 2 ounces of injector cleaner in the bowl, reassemble, turn it over a few times, repeat until you use up the bottle of cleaner. If this does. It work, likey to be a valve train mechanical problem.
the 1000 is a simple drive cycle
clear the above up before dealing with the 2403 and 1335
the compression test is the critical step. You are wasting your time on this engine if it fails the compression test.
was this running when you bought it or is this a barn yard dog that you are thinking about buying.
Good luck.
0308. Do a compression test. If 0 the engine is toast. And you should stop. Did some already do this test and tell you this?
if compression test is good....for the 246c - remove the dpf and have it cleaned, replaced, or if you want to invest in a few gallons of parts cleaner you could soak it using a tall kitchen trash can . Soak it for a few days.
the 0405 is a common problem on the 08’s . Start buy buying a new #3 egt sensor
You are in reduced power mode becuase of the dpf. The 0273 and 0263 could be the root cuase. This could be clogged injectors, worn rocker tips, dropped rocker ball, bent push rods, lifter problems, can lobe problems. If the compression test checks out ok, you can try to clean the injectors by removing the engine bay fuel filter cover, pour 2 ounces of injector cleaner in the bowl, reassemble, turn it over a few times, repeat until you use up the bottle of cleaner. If this does. It work, likey to be a valve train mechanical problem.
the 1000 is a simple drive cycle
clear the above up before dealing with the 2403 and 1335
the compression test is the critical step. You are wasting your time on this engine if it fails the compression test.
was this running when you bought it or is this a barn yard dog that you are thinking about buying.
Good luck.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Thanks
i bought it work at a dealership a guy traded it in said it started acting like this he parked it been there a couple years so I took it on trade and bought from the dealership at a super low price. So no test have been done dude just assumed and thanks I’ll run a compression on each cylinder then take a look under valve cover.. thanks so much just gave me all the guidance I needed I didn’t know where to start I’ll keep posting as I do stuff once again thanks
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
O I was thinking check compression then look at cable so I should clean dpf and get before messing with valve I’d say something def wrong sounds horrible buddys a Nissan mechanic knows nothing about desires but thinks the injectors gone so if u think clean dpf first I will honestly was gonna do a dpf and egr delete but didn’t want to waste the money if the motors shot I think lifters rockers etc I can fix but valves or cam line messed up is past my level of fixing
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14,301
Likes: 2,197
Check compression on the #8 cylinder
if it passes....clean the dpf to take it out of reduce power mode
try to clean the injectors before doin valve train sugery
check to make sure you oil is not fuel contaminated.
if it passes....clean the dpf to take it out of reduce power mode
try to clean the injectors before doin valve train sugery
check to make sure you oil is not fuel contaminated.
Trending Topics
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,768
Likes: 58
From: East Tawas, MI
New one on me. I'm a Land survey guy. I see this kid driving an 08 sd diesel. He's hauling a 18 ft dump trailer going down a power line.
I saw him pulling the same rig last week and he said his truck was constantly in regen. I told him I had spare egt sens if he wanted to see if that was the problem.
In front of my eyes, he went over a stump and wrapped the entire exhaust under his rear axle from the dpf back.
Including the sensors 2 and 3.
Truck had no codes, ran better as per him, and no more regen with a straight thru exhaust. Sounded like a prison alarm, but notably, it ran very smooth.
JS
Denny
I saw him pulling the same rig last week and he said his truck was constantly in regen. I told him I had spare egt sens if he wanted to see if that was the problem.
In front of my eyes, he went over a stump and wrapped the entire exhaust under his rear axle from the dpf back.
Including the sensors 2 and 3.
Truck had no codes, ran better as per him, and no more regen with a straight thru exhaust. Sounded like a prison alarm, but notably, it ran very smooth.
JS
Denny
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,768
Likes: 58
From: East Tawas, MI
I see him oddly in the forest. I should let him know.
So with out the dpf, and no tune it will still regen, even if not commanded?
He strait piped after that, haven't seen him since. He's probably toast lol. (and I don't think he replaced the sensors.)
Thanx Fritz
Denny
So with out the dpf, and no tune it will still regen, even if not commanded?
He strait piped after that, haven't seen him since. He's probably toast lol. (and I don't think he replaced the sensors.)
Thanx Fritz
Denny
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
sorry for the delayed response work kept me from missing with it. Ok so passed compression test so while I had time I pulled the driver valve cover off and the rocker arm bridge was completely off laying in the cover #4 and #8 bridge is really loose and floppy I’m going to buy a new rocker arm assembly and push rods is there anything else I need to get while at this point ? Also drained out no metal in filter or anywhere, and last question how do I crank it or turn it over with with the cover off I tried and fuel went everywhere and I can’t hook the fuel cooler or whatever up cause it goes over the valve cover so at a lose there how do I do this
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 14,301
Likes: 2,197
you are going to need to down load the manual to get the proper rocker torque procedure and the correct torque and tolerances.
you are going to do both sides, complete rocker assy, push rods, and saddle bridges? correct
you know you have to replace the 1 time use fuel lines to the injectors...these have to be removed in order to pull the rockers. you will need a crows foot socket to drag torque the fuel lines correctly. if not done right, they will leak. also, when you re-assemble the fuel lines, partially install the injector side (seated but not torqued..should be able to move), turn up the line and get a syringe and squirt some fuel into the line so that the injectors will be primed...then follow the correct fuel line install procedure.
why do you need to do this and you should not try to crank a dry fuel system as the HPFP is lubed using fuel and dry cranking will cause fuel pump wear which will be very expensive to fix. when everything is reassembled , do the 6 cycle of the fuel pump on and off procedure (with key on but not in start mode...go to the shreader valve on fuel cooler and push the pin until fuel comes out...do the 6 on (for 20 seconds each on) an off cycle after you blead the shreader valve.
if you have not ordered the push rods yet, you should buy the stage 1 chrome moly rods a few folks sell. brand does not matter as long as they are stage 1. stage 1's have thicker tube walls and will not bend.
there is a procedure to rotate the crank to do rocker torque. this is to prevent a lifter that is pressurized with oil from bending a rod.. If you have trouble with this procedure as I did, my crank would not turn by hand....you will have to let the lifters bleed their oil....what I did was to partially install all the rockers, rods, saddles, enough to keep everything in place. then I went thru and snugged all the bolts evenly rotating across all the bolts on both sides ....when I felt the bolts get just start to get tight. I stopped on each bolt. I let the rockers sit for 15 minutes. Then started to torque them 1 at a time starting with 10 , waiting 15 minute, upping the torque wrench another 10...tighten each bolt...wait 15 more minutes...repeat until you get to your final torque. This way the oil bleeds out of the lifters and you don't bend a push rod. if you can manually turn the crank....that is the preferred procedure.
when I removed my oil fill unit (which has the case vent) I cracked the line that goes from the case vent to the block (this is a oil recovery line). I had to trim both ends and install a rubber hose with clamps on both sides. check that.
you never answered my question about if you have a seal or spacer on your engine that goes into the holes on the valve cover where the fuel line to the fuel rail goes thru. mine did not have one and I am getting smoke on both sides thru this hole. the next time I take my cover off, Im going to invent some kind of seal. if yours has a seal or spacer can you post a pic so I can investigate.
go down to autozone or what ever parts store you use and by some assembly lube and put the lube on all the tips, saddles, both ends of push rods, etc.
also, you have to do something about your clogged cat converter....its going to go right into wrench mode if you do not resolve and your going to think your rocker job got all screwed up. I would pull the DPF and soak it in solvent for a few days using a plastic kitchen trash can. you can buy a few gallons of parts cleaner, use diesel, kerosene, etc. I would not use gasoline as that is very combustible. or if you can find someone that does it...you can send it out to have it baked. or buy a new or used one.
Ok so passed compression test so while I had time I pulled the driver valve cover off and the rocker arm bridge was completely off laying in the cover #4 and #8 bridge is really loose and floppy I’m going to buy a new rocker arm assembly and push rods is there anything else I need to get while at this point ?
you are going to do both sides, complete rocker assy, push rods, and saddle bridges? correct
you know you have to replace the 1 time use fuel lines to the injectors...these have to be removed in order to pull the rockers. you will need a crows foot socket to drag torque the fuel lines correctly. if not done right, they will leak. also, when you re-assemble the fuel lines, partially install the injector side (seated but not torqued..should be able to move), turn up the line and get a syringe and squirt some fuel into the line so that the injectors will be primed...then follow the correct fuel line install procedure.
if you have not ordered the push rods yet, you should buy the stage 1 chrome moly rods a few folks sell. brand does not matter as long as they are stage 1. stage 1's have thicker tube walls and will not bend.
there is a procedure to rotate the crank to do rocker torque. this is to prevent a lifter that is pressurized with oil from bending a rod.. If you have trouble with this procedure as I did, my crank would not turn by hand....you will have to let the lifters bleed their oil....what I did was to partially install all the rockers, rods, saddles, enough to keep everything in place. then I went thru and snugged all the bolts evenly rotating across all the bolts on both sides ....when I felt the bolts get just start to get tight. I stopped on each bolt. I let the rockers sit for 15 minutes. Then started to torque them 1 at a time starting with 10 , waiting 15 minute, upping the torque wrench another 10...tighten each bolt...wait 15 more minutes...repeat until you get to your final torque. This way the oil bleeds out of the lifters and you don't bend a push rod. if you can manually turn the crank....that is the preferred procedure.
when I removed my oil fill unit (which has the case vent) I cracked the line that goes from the case vent to the block (this is a oil recovery line). I had to trim both ends and install a rubber hose with clamps on both sides. check that.
you never answered my question about if you have a seal or spacer on your engine that goes into the holes on the valve cover where the fuel line to the fuel rail goes thru. mine did not have one and I am getting smoke on both sides thru this hole. the next time I take my cover off, Im going to invent some kind of seal. if yours has a seal or spacer can you post a pic so I can investigate.
go down to autozone or what ever parts store you use and by some assembly lube and put the lube on all the tips, saddles, both ends of push rods, etc.
also, you have to do something about your clogged cat converter....its going to go right into wrench mode if you do not resolve and your going to think your rocker job got all screwed up. I would pull the DPF and soak it in solvent for a few days using a plastic kitchen trash can. you can buy a few gallons of parts cleaner, use diesel, kerosene, etc. I would not use gasoline as that is very combustible. or if you can find someone that does it...you can send it out to have it baked. or buy a new or used one.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Thanks for all the help and with the dpf etc I’m just buying full deletes but didn’t want to spend the 1000 if the motor was toady was gonna wholesale the truck but where I’m at see if this works and I’ll buy deletes, and thanks I knew the injectors etc but didn’t know the fuel lines honestly gonna try without replacing they are a few hundred that I don’t have and was gonna do the whole driver side bridge rocker assembly and pushrods, then when more money do the pass side