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Thanks Tim for great input.
I just made a bid on a nice Snap-On Solus Pro EESC 316.
Had them check the box for the EEC-IV adapters, FRD-4 and personality keys required.
I've been told.........this model is still supported somewhat by Snap-On.
I'm having a senior moment induced brain fart....I know I read somewhere about an ABS pump that was more available than the made of unobtainium EBC-5 assembly. If I remember correctly it had a different mounting bracket but was otherwise the same. Anybody else seen it?
I am having the same problem as above: abs system in a 1994 E150 where the abs warning light comes on after driving down the street, but there is no test connector under the dash. So i found this article, got my hands on a Snap-On MT2500 with system cards and connectors, and started trying to read codes from the connector under the hood.
I am running into a problem though: i can read error codes from the engine, but when i go into the ABS menu (after i hook the scanner on to the round connector with 3 pins) there is no option to read codes. The only option i get is to read howto's and tips on doing troubleshooting on the ABS system. Could someone tell me what i am doing wrong? Do i need to start the vehicle and drive in order to read the codes? I can't find any documentation on this
^^^Would your problem not being able to read the ABS codes be related to the MT-2500? Naturally if that's the case Snap On would probably be very helpful sorting this out.
I've been plagued by the ABS light as well, thankfully I came across this thread. I've already checked the transmission & the axle sensor's with no luck.
I'm getting ready to order rotors & brakes for the front & found that they sell differently specked rotors that have the 4 wheel ABS system up front compared to those without. It's what helped me find this thread today. My question to those here that know. Since I purchased this van used & the chance of someone installing rotors that weren't made to work with my ABS system, would that cause the ABS light to turn on?
You should have the ABS system scanned for fault codes rather than guess. If the fault is no signal from front wheels then maybe there’s no tone wheel on non-ABS rotors.
Thanks, the two sensors I tested out were cheap and saved me from having to deal with a Ford dealership, I'm currently keeping them as spares. Seeing how this system has a very specific scanner tool to test for it, I'll be forced to go to Ford to see if they can do it for me. Given the cost of the front sensors, I don't plan to throw that kind of money to test if it'll fix it.
You are on to it HBLARRY,
That is the connector that you use for the 4WABS to plug the special harness into for the NGS in post #10
I have the NGS and the special little harness to test the RABS and 4WABS
Only trouble I have ever seen is HCU failure and the occasional speed sensor failure
You really do not need any of that test equipment if you are willing to just test the speed sensors manually
On the 4 wheel systems I have seen, if the speed sensors are good the HCU is at fault
the difference is the non abs rotors don't have the tone ring installed - that's the round ring with evenly spaced notches around it that generate the signal in conjunction w/ the wheel sensors. '95 e350 has hub and rotor combined and the tone ring lives on the inside portion of the hub. at one time it was available separately i guess to replace a damaged one but i have never seen a rotor for that year that didn't have the tone ring already installed... so yes it is possible that a replacement rotor was installed w/o the tone ring, but i think it highly unlikely.
one thing i have noticed is that doesn't seem to get mentioned very often is that when replacing pads on an abs vehicle, one should crack open the bleeder prior to pressing the piston back into the caliper. as a rule abs hard parts should not have dirty fluid pushed back thru them. just like when replacing screws in plastic, one should put the screw in place then rotate the screw backwards until it drops into the already cut threads. and THEN screw it in using the old threads.
This post has been extremely helpful for me so I wanted to add to it and I also have a question about the appropriate troubleshooting cartridge:
What is the appropriate "troubleshooting cartridge" for the MT2500? The picture of the troubleshooting cartridge in the original post is only a thumbnail & unreadable. Is this cartridge along with the primary 2500-1099 cartridge required to pull the ABS codes? I'm searching ebay for a scanner and want to make sure I get everything.
To supplement this post, I own a 1996 E-350 7.3L Diesel Cab n Chassis (ex-ambulance) with factory Quigley 4x4 conversion & lift. A couple things to note specific to my vehicle and probably others: ON 7.3L DIESELS, THE ABS TEST CONNECTOR IS UNDER THE DASH. After searching the left engine bay without luck, I consulted my Ford manual which notes this exception, see pic below. After searching I did find it tucked up under the dash.
One other obscure thing to note on Quigley 4x4 conversions is that the front ABS wheel sensors HAVE to be ordered from Quigley because they're modified by them for tighter clearances specific to the 4x4 conversion. Get ready to shell out $200 per sensor!!
Based on the image and my recollection I believe (but cannot confirm right this second) that MT2500-2794 is the second cartridge you seek for troubleshooting purposes. At this time eBay has one listed (https://www.ebay.com/itm/225929207169).
You are on to it HBLARRY,
That is the connector that you use for the 4WABS to plug the special harness into for the NGS in post #10
I have the NGS and the special little harness to test the RABS and 4WABS
Only trouble I have ever seen is HCU failure and the occasional speed sensor failure
You really do not need any of that test equipment if you are willing to just test the speed sensors manually
On the 4 wheel systems I have seen, if the speed sensors are good the HCU is at fault
The HCUs tend to go bad. The good news is they're just a system containing a pump and solenoids, so they're rebuildable.
I'm not sure how I feel about pulling them from junkyards, since they're all roughly 30 years old at this point.
The NGS is the way to go
The Snap-on stuff is overpriced and hard or impossible to operate
And, the Snap-on man is no technician when it comes to asking how to use their own equipment
I have several thousand dollars in snap on equipment and love my ECOs but rely on my NGS for trouble like Ford ABS and airbag codes
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AWESOME! Let us know how that works out. That scanner would be very useful to those of us with older and newer cars!
