My Ranger with the 2.5L and manual trans has just over 200,000 miles on it. Last Saturday I went to start it (after sitting for a couple weeks), it started then died right away, almost sounded like a backfire. Went to restart it and it just cranked and cranked. After letting it sit for about 2 minutes, it started and ran perfect. Was able to complete my errands of the day. It sat again until today, when I wanted to use it. Same thing started right up, then just quit. This time it took about 5 minutes to get it to run.

Today I noticed the negative battery post was severely corroded along with the bottom of the battery on the same side. No corrosion on the positive side of the battery. Top of the battery felt damp and the felt pad under the negative cable was very damp. Almost seemed like it was leaking acid. Battery changed.

I also noticed when I had to crank the engine for a longer time than normal to start, the oil pressure gauge would stick on the low side. Would not come up after the engine started. However, if the engine started normal, the oil pressure gauge would work normal.

Talked to my favorite person at my local auto part store. He was thinking fuel pump, but then wasn't sure when I mentioned t ran perfect after it decided to run. I asked him about the crankshaft sensor, and he said maybe. He then said that he's seen them go bad, but not intermittent. He didn't see an ignition module in the computer. Bought a crankshaft sensor, but haven't changed it yet as I ran out of time.

I realize that this post might be confusing, but does anyone have a suggestion on what to look for or a direction to go? I'm seriously thinking about buying a code reader to see if it threw one.
Timing belt was changed when I bought the truck in 2008. At that time it had 138,000 miles.
Thanks for any suggestions.

 

Check to see if there is spark coming from the starter when you turn the key. It could that the positive cable is touching metal and is causing a shortage. That was the problem with my Ranger but now im going to end up replacing all the battery cables and starter cables too.

 

You may have more than one problem.

Maybe begin by having your favorite auto parts store scan the computer for trouble code clues & post up All code Numbers as they can help focus a trouble shoot. Most stores will scan if we're having problems, even if the CEL isn't lit, some won't if it isn't lit. you can cause it to light up on the drive over by loosening the gas cap!!!! lol We can have "pending" codes stored that haven't turned the CEL on yet, so that's why to go to the trouble to have it scanned..

If no set, or pending codes, with the top of the battery looking wet & corrosion on one of the battery cables, have a look at & clean Both battery cables connections on Both ends. We only have 12 volts to work with, so corrosion on either battery cable connection is a sign of problems in the making. All electrical connections need to be clean, bright & tight.
If all that checks out, make sure the serp belt is in good shape, no fluids on it & no large chunks missing on the underneath side that contacts the pully & belt tension is between the min & max marks on its casting so its not slipping & causing the alternator to under charge the battery.
When the belt condition & tension check out & the battery cables connections on Both ends have been put right, have the store perform an under load electrical system check-up, to make sure the alternator, battery & B- cable connections between the battery, engine & body are sound & the B+ connection to the alternator & under hood power distribution box are clean, bright & tight & the alternator & battery test out under load to be up to the task.

If your of a mind to begin doing your own diagnostics & wrench turning, consider coming by the inexpensive ELM scan tool & running FORScan diagnostic freeware (that's tweaked for Fords), on the viewing device of your choice as discussed here. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html. It's a very powerful but inexpensive addition to our electronic tool box & sorely needed on todays computer controlled vehicles. I've had mine for almost 5 years now & it paid for itself on the first use as noted in the thread link.

When its in one of its no start/run fits, Before cranking the engine for a start. try cycling the ignition key from Off to On 3-4 times, Then try cranking for a start. If it'll fire right up, suspect a fuel delivery problem. So perform a fuel pressure & volume delivery over time test with your fuel pressure gauge. Pressure should be 64 +/-8 psi & volume should be about 1/2pt-15 seconds pump run time.
If its time for a fuel filter change, do that too, as a clogged filter can cause low pressure, or wimpy delivery rate.

If the battery, alternator, fuel pressure & delivery rate all check out, Excessive carbon deposits on the intake valves & in the combustion chamber can make for a hard cold start by absorbing the vaporized fuel & making for a really lean mixture that can cause a hard start, so if you think that's a possibility, add a 20 oz dose of Techron Concentrate Plus in the tank, at the pump before filling, so to get good mixing & run most of the treated tank out with daily rpm run ups to 3-3.5K for a mile or two, to blow out loosened deposits.
EDIT: If we'll use Chevron, Texaco, CalTex, or now Shell, all of which now have some PEA in their fuel ad pack, the extra Techron will raise the treat rate about 10X above pump gas alone, so will often tidy things up in one tank, with the above daily spirited drive cycle during the treated tank.

More beginning thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.

 

Thanks for the troubleshooting tips. I do plan on taking it down to the store to see if there are any codes.
I didn't even think about the filter being possibly clogged. It may be worthwhile to replace anyway.
I had completely forgot about the scan tool. This looks promising. OHP WiFi Forscan OBD2 Adapter Scanner with HS-Can & MS-Can Switch for Android, iPhone and Ipad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJL31Z7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_woW5BbDPED9MZ
I'll post an update as I do more troubleshooting.

 

If your interested in the ELM scan tool, be aware not all ELM's are the same quality & as noted in the thread, Amazon vendor BAFX is said by members on this forum & the TCCA forum, to be a trustworthy seller, that will back up the ELM they sell. They may cost a few dollars more, but they have a phone number to call & a Tech type that can help if your having set up, or part problems we can't figure out here, so that support is worth something & costs the vendor something to provide & maintain that support.

 

Thanks for the heads up!! Will definitely look at them before I buy.
I looked at everything mentioned so far, and found nothing wrong yet. I will change the fuel filter in the next day or two. I also want to check the fuel pressure to set my mind at ease.
Took the truck to the store, and they weren't able to pull codes because of no CEL.
I did drive it for a while and it started right away every time. Even after sitting for 5 hours, it started right up. I'll see tomorrow.
there is still something not right, as the oil pressure gauge will sit right in the middle, then suddenly drop to L. It may or may not bounce to the middle of the gauge. Acts like it loses electrical power.

 

The oil pressure gauge doesn't read true oil pressure, its sort of an idiot gauge now, as Ford has it wired to read midrange as long as we have a few lbs of oil pressure. Sounds like you might have a faulty battery to engine & or body to engine ground connection, or maybe a faulty oil pressure sensor/switch. Try a wiggle test on the battery B- lead to the engine, the body to engine ground strap & the oil pressure lead & its connection to the sensor.
You didn't loosen the gas cap on the way to the store, so the CEL would be lit???

 

i think maybe one problem op is having is timing belt slippage,, the back firing and hard starting,,,,,,i would be checking timing belt for missing teeth or worn out tensioner,,, i am not saying the serpitine belt but the timing belt,,,,just something to check out and make sure,,,,,

 

^+1 KF4EYR good point on the timing belt & since he's just come by a timing light, a ignition timing check is also just a look away & he can also have a look atop the timing belt cover for the belt & cam timing marks that could show if it's jumped cam timing as you've supposed.
With the 200K mileage on this puppy its possible, as if the timing belt hasn't previously been replaced, it's lived Two lifetimes, so is well past time for replacement & if it was replaced beforehand, at 200K miles its due again!!!.

 

I did think about the timing belt. It's probable close to change time. I had it replaced when I bought the truck in May of 2008. At that time it had 138,000 miles on it.
Yes, I did forget to loosen the gas cap before taking it to have codes checked. It will give me a way to try the EML scan tool when it arrives. Took pawpaw's advice on one.
I really don't like how the oil pressure gauge became an idiot light in disguise. I have read that the manufactures have gotten a lot of complaints when the oil gauge actually read oil pressure. People were thinking that the pressure was lost at idle and the gauge was reading low. Now the gauge reads in the middle and people are happy.

 

^+1 as an analog gauge guy, I didn't care for Fords idea to make the oil pressure gauge nothing more than an idiot gauge. But we can make it read real oil pressure again by shorting out the resistor on the back of the oil pressure gauge circuit board & using a variable resistance pressure sensing sending unit in place of the pressure switch in the block. I believe there is a thread on how to do this with part numbers for the sending unit, down in the Misc section of the Tech Info thread atop this forums thread index page, if your of a mind to convert it back to a Real gauge like they were back in the 80's.

Will be interesting to hear if the ELM & FORScan can effectively use the misfire monitor to isolate which cylinder belongs high up on the suspect list. The ELM can be used on other vehicles made after 95 that are OBD-2 or CAN too, so isn't a dead end investment. With FORScan it can query the engine, tranny, body, PATS, SRS & ABS computer/controllers on our Ford & Mazda vehicles, so is a very powerful but not expensive diagnostic item for our electronic tool box.

 

Update: Disconnected oil pressure switch connector, reconnected and gauge now works as advertised.
So far, truck is operation like it's old self!!

Thanks for all the help.

ps... pawpaw, sending you a pm about the ELM 327 scanner and forscan.

 

Ok good feedback on the oil pressure gauge anomaly seeming to be a faulty sensor electrical connection.

 

Update: Truck went back to hard starting. Cranks and cranks. Finally got hold of a fuel pressure tester and it read zero during the hard starting/cranking. When it finally started, max pressure was 50si. Looks like I'll be changing the fuel pump and filter soon.

 

Hold on, lets think about this failure mode some more, there are a few other things to consider testing, before throwing a fuel pump at this problem.

When you turn the ignition to On, before you crank the engine, can you hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds to build pressure, then turn off??? If not, does the CEL come on for its self check, then wink off?
If not, put the ECM power relay on the suspect list. If the CEL lights up for its self test & turns off, the ECM power relay is likely ok.

At KOEO, the ECM power relay also energizes the fuel pump power relay to run the fuel pump for about 2 seconds, to prime the fuel system for a start, so at KOEO, before cranking the engine, you should hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds & turn off as the CEL winks out. If you don't hear the fuel pump run when you turn the ignition to On, put its power relay on the suspect list, as relays are a common problem part for this kind of failure mode, so have earned they're place on a suspect list. You could try & thump it, to see if it'll wake up & run, or try swapping it for a like relay not needed to run the engine, like the horn relay, etc & drive it for a while to see that fixes the problem & if so, replace the old relay..

If the ECM & fuel pump power relays check out ok, try thumping/tripping the in cabin fuel pump inertia switch to trip it, (located passenger side foot well area, on the firewall just above the carpet line, or behind the passenger side kick panel), so it's little red post sticks up, then push it back down to reset it, so it makes electrical connection in a new spot & see if that'll enable the fuel pump to run. If so, replace the inertia switch.

If all that checks out ok, but the fuel pump still doesn't run, use the back side of your fist, or a piece of wood to thump the fuel tank, or thump the fuel pump atop the tank to jar the fuel pump & see if that'll cause it to wake up & run, if it does, suspect an internal fuel pump electrical problem, like worn brushes, or commutator, or a problem with its electrical connector atop the tank, or a wiring problem between the inertia switch & pump connector.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.