Engine removal, clarifying question
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It really depends on how high your engine crane will go. I have to remove the wheels and lower the jack to where to brake rotors are almost touching the ground. Even then I have barely enough clearance for the oil pan to clear the top of the core support. The ideal situation would be to have a tall gantry crane and a chain hoist, then you would only need to remove the hood.
#4
It really depends on how high your engine crane will go. I have to remove the wheels and lower the jack to where to brake rotors are almost touching the ground. Even then I have barely enough clearance for the oil pan to clear the top of the core support. The ideal situation would be to have a tall gantry crane and a chain hoist, then you would only need to remove the hood.
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One Friday after work at 5 I pulled my engine . Tore it apart put in a crank kit , new pistons and rings , gasket kit & painted it And was home by 11 .
Installed it the next morning and plowed the drive with it by the afternoon . Taking off the entire front end is an entire waste of time IMHO .
The radiator support is only a problem when changing the waterpump
Installed it the next morning and plowed the drive with it by the afternoon . Taking off the entire front end is an entire waste of time IMHO .
The radiator support is only a problem when changing the waterpump
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#8
#9
You don't pull the core support mounting bolts. The core support, radiator, aprons, and fenders come off as a unit. The only bolts you need to remove up front are the two body mount bolts. Perhaps you mean those? I've never had difficulty removing or reinstalling those.
#10
You don't pull the core support mounting bolts. The core support, radiator, aprons, and fenders come off as a unit. The only bolts you need to remove up front are the two body mount bolts. Perhaps you mean those? I've never had difficulty removing or reinstalling those.
#11
They do get gnarly. Especially the driver's side bolt. I assume because of overflow tank drain. Definitely a Kroil / PB Blaster situation. I've replaced the ones I've done.
#12
At the point in the picture, I was pulling the hoist back away from the truck to pull the slack out of the chains and straps, and then I would pick up the rear of the clip and move it back to put more slack in the hoist - the purpose of that was to avoid scratching the bottoms of my fenders. Repeat until clear of your working area.
Front clip bolts as I remember were of course the two frame mounts near the radiator, the six bolts and nuts which go through those firewall 'horns.' Then two bolts in the door jambs about halfway between the rocker and the cowl, and lastly the two bolts which secure the bottoms of the fenders to the rockers. So I think it's six bolts on each side.
Then, or first, you need to disconnect all of the wires and hoses which lead to anything which is attached to the inner fenders and rad support - IE voltage regulator, ignition box, windshield washer reservoir ETC.
#13
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