Engine removal, clarifying question
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 306
Likes: 6
Engine removal, clarifying question
When swapping the engine, it’s best (or a must) to remove the front clip? (‘79 F250 460)
from what I’ve read, it’s fairly simple. Otherwise, removing wheels to drop front end, which seems like more work than taking front end off.
from what I’ve read, it’s fairly simple. Otherwise, removing wheels to drop front end, which seems like more work than taking front end off.
Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 594
I've done both. Removing the clip makes engine removal and install so much easier. Removing the clip is not difficult, but is a two man job. I forgot the bolt count, but I think it's less than 16. And you have to disconnect electrical's on both aprons.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 900
Likes: 3
It really depends on how high your engine crane will go. I have to remove the wheels and lower the jack to where to brake rotors are almost touching the ground. Even then I have barely enough clearance for the oil pan to clear the top of the core support. The ideal situation would be to have a tall gantry crane and a chain hoist, then you would only need to remove the hood.
Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 594
It really depends on how high your engine crane will go. I have to remove the wheels and lower the jack to where to brake rotors are almost touching the ground. Even then I have barely enough clearance for the oil pan to clear the top of the core support. The ideal situation would be to have a tall gantry crane and a chain hoist, then you would only need to remove the hood.
Tuned
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 455
Likes: 0
It's easier and safer to take the front clip off. I took my engine and trans out with it on and it was a headache. I took it off to reinstall. It was so much easier to get it back in. But its personal preference and how much you want to take apart!
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
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One Friday after work at 5 I pulled my engine . Tore it apart put in a crank kit , new pistons and rings , gasket kit & painted it And was home by 11 .
Installed it the next morning and plowed the drive with it by the afternoon . Taking off the entire front end is an entire waste of time IMHO .
The radiator support is only a problem when changing the waterpump
Installed it the next morning and plowed the drive with it by the afternoon . Taking off the entire front end is an entire waste of time IMHO .
The radiator support is only a problem when changing the waterpump
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 13
From: Saskatchewan
Pulling the front clip would make way more work in my opinion. Those core support mounting bolts can really suck to get out. Plenty of room under the hood of these old trucks to pull the engine. Good luck
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Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 594
You don't pull the core support mounting bolts. The core support, radiator, aprons, and fenders come off as a unit. The only bolts you need to remove up front are the two body mount bolts. Perhaps you mean those? I've never had difficulty removing or reinstalling those.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,668
Likes: 13
From: Saskatchewan
You don't pull the core support mounting bolts. The core support, radiator, aprons, and fenders come off as a unit. The only bolts you need to remove up front are the two body mount bolts. Perhaps you mean those? I've never had difficulty removing or reinstalling those.
Grumpy goat
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3,058
Likes: 594
They do get gnarly. Especially the driver's side bolt. I assume because of overflow tank drain. Definitely a Kroil / PB Blaster situation. I've replaced the ones I've done.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,217
Likes: 154
At the point in the picture, I was pulling the hoist back away from the truck to pull the slack out of the chains and straps, and then I would pick up the rear of the clip and move it back to put more slack in the hoist - the purpose of that was to avoid scratching the bottoms of my fenders. Repeat until clear of your working area.
Front clip bolts as I remember were of course the two frame mounts near the radiator, the six bolts and nuts which go through those firewall 'horns.' Then two bolts in the door jambs about halfway between the rocker and the cowl, and lastly the two bolts which secure the bottoms of the fenders to the rockers. So I think it's six bolts on each side.
Then, or first, you need to disconnect all of the wires and hoses which lead to anything which is attached to the inner fenders and rad support - IE voltage regulator, ignition box, windshield washer reservoir ETC.
