Question Regarding Ignition Switch Diagnostic

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Oct 31, 2018 | 02:10 PM

conrad10781

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Question Regarding Ignition Switch Diagnostic

Hello everyone,

I have an '84 F250 with the 6.9 IDI.

I can use my key to do everything but crank the engine. I verified the battery, starter, and solenoid are all fine.

What I have noticed is that the ignition cylinder is a bit loose. Meaning, I can turn the key back towards me past the off position.

I can start the truck without issue by jumping the solenoid, or manually moving the ignition rod that's on top of the steering wheel. When moving the ignition key, it does move the rod, but maybe just not enough?

I can stop the truck without issue by returning the key back to the off position.

My initial thought was that this isn't a full ignition switch actuator issue, since that moving the key does move the rod a little, is it possible to "adjust" the rod, or does the ignition switch actuator need to be replaced all together?

I know it may be difficult to answer 100% accurately without me having taken off the steering wheel to see if the switch is broken, but again it does move the rod around from off to on.

Thanks for your time.

Last edited by conrad10781; Oct 31, 2018 at 02:30 PM. Reason: clarification

Oct 31, 2018 | 04:50 PM

Franklin2

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From: Virginia

It has to be the actuator problem, especially if you have a tilt column. The rod will move a little with with a broken actuator.

Oct 31, 2018 | 06:42 PM

kr98664

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Gary has some details here that may help:

Ignition - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)

Oct 31, 2018 | 07:39 PM

kr98664

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After you make sure the switch is properly adjusted, as detailed at the link above, you may find this new How-To of some interest:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...on-switch.html

Nov 25, 2024 | 08:38 PM

kaleb p

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Franklin2

It has to be the actuator problem, especially if you have a tilt column. The rod will move a little with with a broken actuator.

I’m thinking I might have a problem with my actuator also. It starts fine most of the time, but occasionally it won’t start when I turn the key. When I put the shifter into gear then back to park it usually starts right up. Does that sound like either the actuator or ignition switch?

Nov 25, 2024 | 09:15 PM

kr98664

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kaleb p

When I put the shifter into gear then back to park it usually starts right up. Does that sound like either the actuator or ignition switch?

Just to clarify, when you say the engine won't start, do you mean no response from the starter? If the starter engages as normal but the engine won't run on its own, that's a whole different scenario.

What year is your truck? Partway through 1984, the starter circuit got a safety switch. If so equipped, the starter will not engage unless the transmission is in P or N. If the starter won't engage, the symptoms sound like a problem with this switch.

Nov 25, 2024 | 09:21 PM

kaleb p

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kr98664

mine is a 1990. And the starter does not respond at all. That makes sense to me but I wasn’t aware of any switch. Can you give me some more info about that switch, what it’s called and where it is?

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Nov 25, 2024 | 09:55 PM

kr98664

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kaleb p

i should add I just replaced the neutral safety switch on the side of the tranny recently due to a different issue. (E4OD tranny)

That's the switch I had in mind. Perhaps the new one is defective? Don't poo-poo the idea, as sadly many new parts are bad right out of the box. If so, be sure to buy a new switch from a different vendor. You don't want to get another bad part from the same bad batch. Been there, done that.

Did the switch require any adjustment when installed? If so, perhaps it needs some fine tuning or the fasteners have worked loose.

Nov 25, 2024 | 10:11 PM

#10

kaleb p

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kr98664

I know about new parts being bad, I’ve had to replace brand new parts more than enough times, I’m to the point of only using motorcraft parts now. I did not do any adjusting when I changed it. The reason I changed it was it wouldn’t shift out of firmest gear occasionally. After I changed that it fixed that issue. I didn’t think about that being my no start problem, I assumed it was something inside the steering column. I’ll check the bolts tomorrow and see what I can find.

Nov 25, 2024 | 10:52 PM

#11

kr98664

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These threads mention the official adjustment procedure and a workaround without any special tools:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...-align-it.html

https://www.thedieselstop.com/thread...stment.224945/

Nov 26, 2024 | 04:43 PM

#12

kaleb p

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Quote:

Originally Posted by kr98664

did some looking today, the mounting bolts on the NSS are tight. And the neutral line switch matches right up. I’m guessing that means the switch is itself is acting up occasionally. I just tried starting it in neutral and it wouldn’t go, switched to park and started. Shut it off and back to neutral and it started. I just realized every now and then my backup lights won’t come on either, which would make sense with that switch if I understand correctly. Does this makes sense that it’s the new switch being faulty?

thanks for your help! Very much appreciated!

Nov 26, 2024 | 09:47 PM

#13

Franklin2

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From: Virginia

It's a little awkward, but when it will not crank, see if you can hold the key over to start, and take your other hand and wiggle the shifter around. You may find the neutral safety or the linkage needs adjusting. The holes should be sloppy enough in the switch to twist it around some. If your truck is rusty and the body mount is bad on the front driver's side, that will aggravate this situation.

Nov 27, 2024 | 04:24 AM

#14

kr98664

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Franklin2

It's a little awkward, but when it will not crank, see if you can hold the key over to start, and take your other hand and wiggle the shifter around.

Excellent suggestion from Dave! When the fault is active, the trick is to only make one change (wiggle the shift lever) and see if that helps. If you also change the key position at the same time, you won’t know which switch (or linkage) is causing the trouble.