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Have not read a lot of these. I did find the correct diagram and just to verify colors.
One wire is labled R/PK . I assume that is read and pink
Other is LG/BK. I assume that means light green and black.
Headed out to shop now where I have plenty of lighting. If nothing is in the way I will lift truck and look at wireing as well.
Testing under hood gets all the wiring run to the sensor, so if you don't have a helper to watch the multimeter, rig it on Buzz & listen as you tap & flex the sensor electrical connector & wiring run all the way to the engine compartment & cab, to see if you can induce & locate any dropouts/intermittent circuit that would upset the RABS controller.
Lets start by saying. I could not get a reading at the test port. Could be because they showed to back prob the connector. So I tested at sensor lified and jsck standed the truck. Could not get to lift as the 72" mower was there with an owners manual. So did not want to start. Pushed far enough to get truck inside.
While under I followed the wire loom the best I could. It is completly intact. I assume I just could not get reading because of meter.
Anyway at the sensor I got 1358.
Next let me say this and always has been a been Florida truck. No body corrosion and very little other corrosing which is simply surface corrosion on springs etc.
I would think if some wires were cut I would have a yellow light because the system would suspect trouble.
Well the answer may be at hand. While following the loom I came to the rabs valve. I is wet. I assume that is where my fluid went since the pads were not worn enough to loose that much fluid.
Walking back to shop with good cam to take a snapshot and post it.
That is the first valve in line from the rear end to the front. That is mounted on the left side of the truck approximately under where the door and fender meet. It looks just like the RABS valve I seen listed as available for this truck on line. The valve at Cardone
I assume to replace that one would need a tool that can activate the valve while doing a full system flush.
I will add an uncut picture to my underside album so you can get a better idea where it is located.
I am guessing the 1358 reading on the module is about a close to perfect as one can get.
So with a good reading there, and the system seeming to work other than lockups at this point I would say the first step is replace the valve because it is most likely clogged and sticking.
I agree it's a good suspect find & should be replaced, as it's leaking & that's Not normal.
I agree the speed sensor ohm reading is likely ok, as its real close to the 1,400 number. The rear speed sensor for my 99 measured 1,910 ohms & works fine.
You may have developed more than one problem, so will be interesting to hear how it goes after this leaking part is replaced. A well known trusted specialty brake shop should have whats needed to bleed the system.
That's the issue. The only brake shops around here are not real trustworthy.
I did do my brakes once several years back that is how I know I did not like doing drums. Don't mind messing with disc's.
Anyway before I did them I priced out the work at the shops back then. They were priced more than double even getting them done at the dealer and we have much the same brake shops as before.
Luckily there are no less than 6 Ford dealers within 30 miles and just guessing probably about twice that within 50 miles. If necessary I will make the drive as this truck is worth it for me to keep, I have driven it 25 years now so almost like loosing a limb if it was gone. Would probably regret it. Much cheaper than payments and geesh from what I have seen I am not sure I will be impressed with the 2019. Only time will tell. Maybe in a couple of years they will have more options on drive trains and bed length.
Maybe it is just me but I also hate the stamped tailgate with the word Ranger. I would rather just have the badge.
I will start looking for a shop come Monday.
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