Need to replace my rear tank filler neck hose. I have new straps and a new filler neck. Exhaust is a bit in the way but I think I can lower the tank down from the back and slide backward if needed. How much slack will I have on the fuel lines, etc? Any good tips for this job?

Also need to replace a lower hinge pin on the driver door. Bushing is cracked in two and there's quite a bit of slop in the hinge. How do you get the old pin out and the new one in? Does it need to be peaned, or does it go into place and lock in somehow?

Thanks in advance. I'll get to door seals later.

 

Suggestion #1 - drain the tank as much as possible before dropping it. It's a heavy sum B and has sharp corners to cut your hands on
Suggestion #2 - get a helper for this one.... I've always been able to drop my rear tank in such a position that it will rest completely inside the frame rails once the bolts are undone. Takes some finesse, and careful not to pinch a finger or two... but can be done if you rotate the tank 10-15 degress any which way so that it rests on the frame (bottom part of the channel). Gives you the option to move everything out of the way, and secure a good position to lay under the (EMPTY) tank to remove it and lay it on your chest just by yourself. Usually I get the front of the tank to drop first, and if it hits the axle, it hits the axle... (and not my head).... When it's out, its basically laying on my belly like I'm an otter with a clam LOL
Suggestion #3 - have everything disconnected BEFORE you drop the tank. Not during (ask me how I know) or after you drop it. Crawl under the truck and disconnect the fuel line just above the axle, in FRONT of the crossmember. Electrical should have a bullet connector there, and there will also be a ground. Easy to remove and prep before dropping. Fuel filler hose should be disconnected from the neck before dropping.

I've had to drop my tank about 5 times in the last year... this is the easiest way I've found.

A helper is always nice, but not necessarily required. Just be safe...

EDIT: I guess all my suggestions only work if you have the wide frame truck like the 78/79 models. Not sure which yours is and if all that typing I did even applies to you lol

 

I ground the flat part of the hinge pin off and punched it through with a hammer and punch (ok it was a screwdriver, anything can be a punch if you believe in yourself).

I actually have a hinge kit if you want it. I bought two to repair the driver and passenger door but decided against messing w/ the passenger after I was done. It's a somewhat overpriced kit I got from Amazon, not a Dorman. Worked great, yours for the cost of shipping. Don't know that I'll ever need it.

 

I've found it easier to remove the bed.

 

This about sums up the tank removal... I did mine solo as well. Its really not that hard.

 

The hinge pin was easy enough. I took off the door and left the hinges bolted on, then cut the pin with a dremel and a cut off wheel. I used the set of steel bushings that came with the kit and had to ream the holes out a bit to get them in....Reassembled...good to go.

The tank wasn't horrible....but as suggested, another set of hands makes a huge difference. Had to unbolt a good bit of my exhaust so I could push one side out of the way, and I had to remove my rear bumper because the brackets were also in the way. All buttoned up.

Moving on to the next job now.

 

do have one question though...I can see the ground strap, but don't see where it connects. Since the tank is bolted to the frame, it would seem it's already grounded....It may have pulled off when I dropped the tank....

 

The wire bolts onto the bottom of the cross member that is in front of the tank, right straight out from the sender. Make sure you get the gear clamp on that holds the filler to the bottom of the bed. If it's not on there you won't be able to pump gas in very fast. There should be a second clamp right by the fillers clamp for it.