Ok the first question is what are you looking to do with this truck?
Will it be a weekend drive around and to local shows?
Put to work loading the bed up and maybe pulling a 5000# trailer?

Each of the above would call for a different motor.
The 302 is a good little motor for a weekend run around and to shows motor but not much in the way for a work horse.
That 352 is a work horse and the 428/429/460 will pull anything as I have used them to do just that.

So with that asked next question, what one of them engines will bolt to your trany and what has to be done to bolt it to the frame?
Then with any crate motor we have to deal with oil pans, can you get sumps & pump pick ups to work with your front cross member?
See where this is going? A crate motor may be less $ up front but all the little things you will have to but just to get it to bolt in it may be cheaper and a lot easier to rebuild the 352.

I will say if doing shows some people love seen big blocks, 428/429/460, under the hood and if that is yours then go for it.
You know what they say "It's your truck build it like YOU WANT!"
Dave ----

 

 

Anything besides another FE engine will at the very least require a new bellhousing (or maybe a transmision), motor mounts, exhaust changes. The question is what do you want and what do you want to spend or can afford to spend. There is a real big difference between a 302 and a 460 and I can't imagine a 428 being done on a low budget. What's the end goal for the truck, a nice driver with decent mileage or a tire burning hot rod.

 

 

I do not know the older trucks and motors so cant say on the 410 but what is it?
Off set ground the crank for more stroke and bore for larger pistons?
If so the only thing that may be a pain is finding pistons with the right measurements and maybe rods?
We have the same thing with AMC 401 motors when trying to make them bigger.

As for the restore have you planed who will be doing the tear down and rebuild? Do you have a shop picked out or going to shows to talk to people to see who they used?
I don't know what tools, garage space or skill you have but sometimes doing the build yourself no matter how it turns out is worth a lot just knowing you did it.
I have seen a lot of cars & trucks done by guys that have never did it before and they looked great.
Dave ----

 

 

Ask your motor question on the FE forum further down. You'll get more info and help there.

 

"Full resto show quality..." OK, "show quality" as in local dealer show and shine, all OEM, trying to win a contest?

You can spend 10s of thousands of dollars doing that.

If you are going OEM, you need a bone stock 352. Otherwise, you can build it as far as your budget will take you.

A REAL OEM 410 was a Mercury only offering in '66 and '67. It was a 390 with a 428 crank and shorter compression height pistons.

You may be able to overbore a 352 block .050, but the usual rule on overbore is to do as little as possible.

Try the FAQ at the top of the FE forum down the page, and a book like this one:

 

My "mystery" motor is believed to be a 410. I know I was told it started life as a 352 and was stroked with a 428 crank. I confirmed the stroke as a 428 crank before buying it.

 

Are the 352, 390, 428 motors all the same on the outside and cant tell unless you can measure the stroke & bore?
If so then I would try and find a 428 motor to build on it. If anything you will need the crank from it but you would have a larger motor to start off with.

The guys pointed you to the FE area so look it over for information and then ask questions if you don't find what you need.
Because I have a 300 six in my truck I check out the 240/300 six area from time to time.

As for you doing the work give it a try. What the worst you can do? May have to do the it 2 or 3 times till you get the hang of it like the body filler part. You will be priming so that is practice for the painting side.
For painting start in areas not seen like engine bay area, door jambs, inside the cab & bed this will also give you more practice before the fenders. doors, and bed sides.
Again worst is you sand it some and try again.
All of this you don't learn over night so take your time. "Us pros" did not learn this over night to make it look easy.
Dave ----

 

I am sure there are guys on here such as ND who will argue multiple differences externaly on the FE engines if it were being concours judged. To answer your question my way though I would say yes they are all identical externally including being cast with the 352 raised numbering on the drivers side front of the block. Even the 427 and 428 said 352. This is one of the reasons I call my motor a mystery motor because I do not know the bore size. Not the standard bore or any over bore. My motor could have started life as a 352 or 360, maybe even a 390 but very unlikely a 428. EDIT: I seem to remember reading articles on identifying a 428 in regards to frost plugs and oil gallery holes which are different on a 428 compared to a 352/360/390? On a final note my air cleaner will say 208 HP thus suggestion the original 352 with an aftermarket aluminum 4V intake conversion

 

I have been messing with FE engines since early 70's. I currently have 5 FE engines and my daily driver is a FE (bone stock 352). One of my current builds is a 482" FE with EFI
If you want it to "appear" stockish when done stick with a FE. Your goal with HP will determine how to go about building it. Along with what you want to do with it. Occasional drive or towing etc

Very difficult to determine size of FE from just looking on outside. Quite easy to determine what it started out as or at least narrow it down.

I have had many combo's in my 1965-66 Trucks from 482, 418, 410, 390, 352. And also 2 with 3.5 EcoBoosts and a 1966 4x4 chassis with a 2.7 EcoBoost fitted but ended up selling the 2.7 to finance the 427 truck and 2nd eco
Bore Sizes Stroke
352 4.00 3.50

390 4.050 3.78

406 4.13 3.78

410 4.050 3.98

427 4.230 3.78

428 4.13 3.98

Using a 1966 352 block it will easily go .050 but any more have it sonic checked.
So using above numbers (rounded to 2 decimal points) A 352 block .050 over with a 3.78 (390) crank will give you 390 cubic inches
same 352 block 4.050 using the 428 3.98 crank will give you 410
Its all bolt in stuff
A ZERO deck is preferred no issue with pistons hitting valves with most reasonable cams. The 1966 352 should have C6AE-R heads on it the same head that would have been on a 1966 428
A lot of interchangability in FE world but one gotta understand what is what.

Absolutely no issue with you doing it yourself and I highly encourage it

Now if you want BIG HP numbers then other engines are better bang for the buck usually but that means a lot of other changes. My advice if you are just starting out is stick with the FE

If you want cheap but plenty of power and excellent MPG a late model EFI engine is the way to go buying a complete donor.

 

Only 302 I would consider is the late model 5.0 Coyote any earlier 302's are just not good for a pickup in my opinion if you want to use it for towing or hauling. To get any power they need more cubes and better heads and higher RPM's

I have found I can build a truck with a late model 5.0 or 2.7 or 3.5 EcoBoost cheaper than to properly rebuild and power increase for 302. 351, 352 or 460. The late model engine will run circles around them too without spending a lot more $$.

My problem is I like em' all depending on what I am expecting or want out of truck. My 1966 F100 Ranger 352 will most likely always stay stock. But, on the other 5 trucks its possible but not likely I will BUILD a FE to fit as I like power and saving $$. 2 or 3 of the 6 is plenty having a FE or any "Early" engine. Those trucks will stay close to home prob never going much more than 100 mi from home. The late model transplant engines will be the ones on longer trips although the one with the 482" FE is being built for venturing a bit farther from home (solid roller cam may be a restriction) One of my 1966 Trucks will be driven to all lower 48 states in next year or so.

 

Just a note on boring an engine...with the ability to buy custom pistons at any bore diameter, compression ratio, and stroke there really isn't a need to bore an engine to the next factory diameter. Bore it just enough to clean it up and save metal for the next rebuild.