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255LPH gas pump .....

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Old Oct 13, 2018 | 09:05 AM
  #1  
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255LPH gas pump .....

I modified my EFI 7,5L ( 460 ) to 400 hp ...... 28 lbs injectors instead of the originals 24 lbs .....better cam , ported F3TE heads , raised CR to 9,25 ,

I installed a 255 LPH gas pump ......took me 4 hres to do it by myself under my RV ....PITA !
Now the engine wont start ,,,,it turns over ,cough , but no start ! It use to start before and dint do nothing else then the pump ....

I`m a bit depress !
Anyone would have an idea before I drop the gas tank again !
Thanks
Dan
 
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Old Oct 13, 2018 | 10:12 AM
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Are you getting fuel pressure? If not and the pump appears to run then it is wired backwords.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2018 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Conanski
Are you getting fuel pressure? If not and the pump appears to run then it is wired backwords.
Thanks for the reply Paul !

the pump definitely runs !
but no pressure , not even enough to push gas in the hose even without gauge ,
but the wires have small and big terminals that I connected as such on the pump ( small & big male terminal ).....
You think it could still be the opposite : big female on small male & same for other ,,,,I tought it would be universal .....

Dan
 
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Old Oct 13, 2018 | 11:05 AM
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Hank85713
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may not be same but I had what was diagnosed as a fuel pump failure in the 2012 winnebago. Got and installed new pump, replaced a weak battery some other stuff. When all said and done it would not start. Guy at shop on a whim took a RELAY from a dead lined vehicle and it stared right up. So I bought them a replacement relay and left for home. The relay is located on left side frame rail. But again do not know configuration of your system. Could be a relay located in the fender mounted relay box? Give it a look see.

BTW the fuel pump would work but not produce enough pressure to pressurize they system.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2018 | 11:41 AM
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First: two days ago with original setup , engine ran great ,started easy.....
I switched fuel pump , the pump runs ( running sound ) so the relay should do his job ( I think ) but the pump doesnt seem too push any pressurized gasoline

To me ( but I can be wrong ) : it`s either that I connected it backwards + on grd & grnd on + , OR the pump suction spout is layng flat on the housing bottom creating a no suction possible situation ...... I had to lower the pump support in the housing ,because the pump is 3/8" longer then original and I dint check clearance .....
Dan
 
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Old Oct 13, 2018 | 01:04 PM
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Paul,
I switched the two wires PK/BK & BK ,,,,,the pump runs and even shuts after 2 seconds ( like if there was a pressure build ) but still no pressure on gauge & engine wont start

I dint change nothing else , same regulator, same filter ....
IF a gas line on tank top wasnt plugged right ,could it do this ? Or it would simply flow ( leak ) ( cant be mixed they are two sizes )

Dan
 
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Old Oct 14, 2018 | 11:40 AM
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look at the last line of my post. Pump would run but not produce enough pressure to start/run engine. When the original pump was pulled they checked it and it still ran, only problem the guy tore the frame for it up getting to the pump. after the new pump was installed had same conditions. power to pump but that was it. My ford ranger sometimes has had fuel pump issues, and it is indeed due to a bad relay. But its up to you to check things out, but throwing parts at something can get expensive.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2018 | 12:12 PM
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You had to modify the resovoir to make the 255l pump fit correct? Exactly how did you do that?
 
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Old Oct 14, 2018 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Conanski
You had to modify the resovoir to make the 255l pump fit correct? Exactly how did you do that?
I had to grind down the pump seat in the tan housing about 3/8" ....

 
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Old Oct 14, 2018 | 05:50 PM
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Found my big problem ...it wasnt the pump itself ,but the over pressure valve ( it`s tan and also in the plastic tan housing ) it is jammed open , so gas would go back to tank instead of going to fuel injectors , causing a zero pressure ....

I will get rid of the original system and connect the pump directly to the outlet tube ......I will bypass this valve .....( the assy is over $250.00 )

I will simply put a piece of fuel injection hose to connect pump to tube , and it will hold because the housing seat will hold it in place .......
Ill get back tomorrow on this ....
 
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Old Oct 14, 2018 | 08:15 PM
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Good find, those valves are the other common failure point in this system.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2018 | 10:22 PM
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Do you have a build thread on this? If not did you use the factory computer? What cam did you use? Did this change your idle characteristics much? Once you get some drive time please post back and let us know if you can tell much difference in the seat of the pants feel.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Spaznaut
Do you have a build thread on this? If not did you use the factory computer? What cam did you use? Did this change your idle characteristics much? Once you get some drive time please post back and let us know if you can tell much difference in the seat of the pants feel.
No I dint ,
But I might find some time to do it .....
the engine is a code "G" 460 ( 7,5L ) with F3TE heads :
bored .030 , H612CP pistons , block shaved to .002 deck height , ported heads & intake shaved .020, lunati torquey voodoo cam & kit , Bosch 28lbs 4 holes injectors , Scott Jay recipe from ford460.com ,,,,,,400hp /500 ftpds torque ,,,,,,,it hauls ! :-) ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,totally original EEC-IV ECM , everything seems to run ok, spark plug colour light tan ( AFR not installed yet ) ,nice exhaust sound lollll, very steady idle ..... the RV is 14,000 pds !
 
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Old Oct 17, 2018 | 11:37 AM
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