Hey folks. Longer, more technical post here so buckle up. So I had an odd occurrence over the last two days with the truck. As some know I've got a pretty in depth lighting setup on the truck. However it is all standalone with the exception of the low draw (~2A) ignition trigger wire for the control system. This trigger wire has been powered via Upfitter switch 1 for about a year now. I chose this route so that if I needed to kill the whole lighting system, I could just shut off the switch. Anyhow, yesterday I noticed that upfitter 1 was not engaging with just the key in the acc position, as the other switches do. I have Rigid fogs on switch2, so I can test against that. So switch1 wasn't working with key to acc, and once I started the truck it took about 20 seconds for the controller to get that trigger power from switch1. Odd. Then the 10A in-line fuse for the trigger wire in the control system blew. Replaced it, same thing. I also notice that when actuating the physical switch, I hear a little "crackle" noise from the switch panel overhead. Only with switch1. Almost like when you arc something across both battery terminals. So this morning I swapped the trigger wire over to switch3 and everything is working normally. It seems to me as if it's an issue with either the interior overhead switch panel or something in the upfitter system...which means warranty work. But has anyone else heard of this or experienced it with their upfitter switches? Or can anyone else who has made it this far kind of confirm my logic here?

Thanks guys!

 

 

Well....same ultimate result with switch3. Blew the 10A fuse and a 15A. Now, these circuits are all 25A circuits. Not sure why the trigger wire might be pulling more than a few amps nor am I sure why the 10A in there was fine for almost a whole year. I put a 20A fuse in this morning and it's been fine all day. So this just confuses me more. It seems to dictate that there ISNT an issue with the switches, unless it's an issue with them as a whole unit. If there is an issue with the entire upfitter module, then why are my rigid Fog lights on switch2 unaffected? Now I'm chasing something that could be going on with my lighting system drawing more amperage than it should? Maybe. I will be chatting with Feniex industries (controller manufacturer) on Monday. They're familiar with my setup so hopefully we can come up with something? Otherwise it's back to the drawing board with a clamp meter and testers!

Good thought on the dead ground, but now that I have had similar results with switch3 I'm not sure how much water it holds. Still worth a check.

 

 

Its actually not bad to trace. It's a short run. The one wire comes through the firewall grommet and along the floor to the back seat. I'll be going over it all to see, but after the wiring hack jobs in my old truck I was pretty meticulous. No single wires sit anywhere except this one. Everything is multi-conductor wire in thick rubber sheathing surrounded by wire loom, ran with all factory wiring. I actually hope I find something, that would answer the question!!

 

Run a continuity test between your trigger wire and ground. If you get continuity then you have a short somewhere.