Going to be doing guides on 2002 E150 soon. Best part is it needs a radiator too so I'll have lots of room.

I have been looking for parts list and the only thing I found here was in an 11 year old thread. So what all will I need?

Valve cover gasket set
Timing cover gasket set
L&R chain guides
L&R tensioner shoes
Two tensioners

Plus misc. Fluids and other supplies type stuff.

Is there a recommended place to buy a decent kits with all of the needed parts? The ones I have found all include chains and I am looking for without chains if that is recommended.

Also if I just do the guides and tensioners do I need to remove the chains too?

 

Do not get the cheapest parts you can find....not worth it. stick with know quality stuff, Cloyes and Melling on aftermarket & of course if you have the chips $$ Motorcraft

Not sure what would be gained if you replace everything, guilds, tensioners and so on & not replace the chains. Unless it has been done recently already and those chains are relatively new. IT is not a easy job and to risk all that work and parts on a potential chain failure later?? sorry can't recommend going with the old chains.

I replaced my radiator in my truck for different reasons then yourself. I went with one that is wider to help increase cooling capabilities not just for the engine . I'm presuming that your van has automatic transmission? With the new radiator you will also get a clean and fresh internal trans cooler in the radiator. Those internal trans coolers can, over time, build up with gunk too and reduce the transmission fluid flow and cooling.

I would also suggest replacing the oil pump while your at it. It is right there in front & easily accessed with timing gears and chains removed. Your tensioners will be happier for it too, which rely on oil pressure to their job. There is Melling oil pump that has a heavier back plate on the oil pump which does a better job of not letting oil seep out during mid range and higher RPMs.

The other thing to maybe put on your list is a water pump....pretty certain it need to come off anyway to get to your timing components.

For "online", I've been looking for parts at Summit racing, one reason is they have a Tech line, so you ask questions about what will work and not work, another reason they take PayPal so you can spread out your payments on those parts. Also with Summit a larger parts order simular to what your looking at shipping should be free. Rock Auto is also another source to get parts, they're a touch cheaper but no tech service to make sure parts fit and work. for you application and you pay for shipping regardless.

I would also chat with a machine shop in your area that has rebuilt your engine and see if they recommend certain parts Or maybe recommend parts to steer clear of.

 

Excellent info. I'll check out Summit and see what's there. I am also involved with VW TDIs and there are a few independent parts guys we deal with that have quality and OEM parts at reasonable prices so I was hoping for something similar, but maybe that's just because TDIs are more of a niche market.

If we do the H2O pump it would be OEM rather than C.R.A.P. aftermarket. Probably do the chains as well. At 190,000 now and working to 300,000.

Also love the "restore autosaved" feature. I hit the back button instead of reply, came back and bingo.

 

The oem parts are reasonably priced for this repair, also get the upgraded ratcheting tensioners. All the OEM parts can be had for 400.00.

 

OEM guides and tensioners was about $230. Would OEM tensioners be upgraded? If not, how would I ensure they are? Thanks.

 

You have to order the upgraded tensioners, they have a different part number.

 

Here Genuine Upgraded Tensioners and make sure you get the new timing chains. Don't use the old chains! Also inspect the crank sprocket for wear.

 

I found a kit with oil pump, water pump, chains, guides, seals and crank gear for $95.00.

Guranteed for one start.

​​​​​​I think I'll pass on that one.

Anywho... So it looks like the ratcheting ones are for a 2004+. Is that correct? I want to see what my pricing would be from Ford.

 

The link I posted is from modular motorsports and those are factory parts and cheaper than Tasca or Fairway Ford.

 

They only exist in the ford racing parts catalog not as repair parts.

 

Thats the one I'm looking at buying, but now I need to keep digging to find a chain/guide/crank gear kit without the tensioners.

 

Ah. This is why I hate shopping for anything - too many choices that I don't understand. For TDI parts I just call and say "Aaron, send me this." and the parts I need show up. It helps when your parts guy is a trusted friend.

Thank you all for your advice. It is very much appreciated!

 

Well, that's done and what a PITA it is in a van. Well, actually the only thing that was a pain was removing the Right valve cover. Ya gotta remove the front two body mounts on the right side and jack up the body as far as it will go and still you have to fight it out. I was hitting on a corner of the heater box but i got out the Dremel and trimmed off as much as I could without affecting the airbox. And remove the coils. I think a second set of hands would have helped here as well. The front and back ends of the VC need to come up at the same time and there is no way for one person to do that easily. I ended up lifting one end, then putting a tool handle under it to hold it, then lift the other end and the tool falls out... Over and over again until I finally got things just right. And it's STILL a pain to get out.

I screwed up and ordered a kit for a 4.6 first, so that set me back. Then I ordered a timing kit for a 2001 instead of a 2002 and found that the crank gears are different. The biggest problem I had with parts (other than my stupidity) was that the right side guide was still wrong. The upper bolt metal spacer is too big. I ordered one from NAPA for a 2002 and it was still wrong. The spacer is just too long so I only had about three threads sticking out the other side. I didn't notice it until I went to torque it down and immediately pulled those three threads. I finally used the longer part and found a 30MM long bolt with a flange head at the local farm supply store. The odd thing about the original bolt is that it is a 9.8 grade bolt. I had never seen a grade 9.8. 8.8 and 10.9, sure, but never a 9.8. I used an 8.8 in there and I'm betting it will be just fine. After measuring, even with the three pulled threads, I still have more thread engagement than before. I tried a 35MM long bolt, but I would have only had one exposed thread (plus the three that I just thought about from the pulled threads) and - as you know - the threads are where the bolt will stretch and with only one thread (or even three) that concentrates the stretching stress in a very small area and that's no bueno.

I did get myself confused on timing everything, until I stepped back and used my brain. I was too worried about moving the cams, but as long as the links are where they are supposed to be, it doesn't matter.

As for parts, I got the timing kit from Summit, the gaskets from NAPA and the thermostat and water pump from Ford. The pump and stat are cheaper at NAPA, but I think I paid $52 for the pump and $22 for the stat. Certainly not budget busters and I don't use aftermarket stats on modern engines. Too much depends on correct temperature.

When I had the stat out and the lower radiator hose off, I flushed clear water into the stat hole and let it run out the lower hole until is was clear, then filled it with VC3 and our good tap water. I should have used distilled water, but our water is very soft, so I'm OK with it.

Lastly, the water pump was original at 198000 miles and it showed no signs of leaking from the seal, but the oring would have been leaking soon and the back side of the housing was pitted from cavitation. The new pump has a shield on the face of the impellers so maybe that was to address the cavitation.

Well, that's all for now. I still need to clean the IAC to hopefully take care of the rando-idle problem, but it's running great now. Even though I turned the engine over twice by hand to be sure valves wouldn't hit pistons, I always have that tiny doubt so when I was ready to start, I bumped the engine over just a bit, but it didn't make a full revolution, so I held it a half-second longer and it started and purred with no leaks.

Thanks to everyone for their advice. I didn't take every bit of it, but that is on me and in no way reflects on my appreciation for you taking the time to give that advice.

Edit: Forgot to mention the wear. Nothing showed much wear. The slides had maybe .020 wear on them, the crank gear had maybe .005 and the chains were certainly looser. With the chains mounted, I could squeeze them together until they were side by side. The new chains, I still had the thickness of the chains between them. (I hope that makes sense) Also, the old tensioners were all the way out and the new ones were all the way in. All of that bits of wear everywhere adds up.

 

Revival just to say that the issue with bolt length bolded above appears to be normal. It's covered in detail in this vid, start about 6:20

He provides the part # for a replacement bolt. I just ordered one on ebay for about $7 and it's funny 'cause it comes up as a bolt for a "handle" in an 18-19 Expedition or something.

Bolt part # W709818 S437

It's unfortunate and surprising this isn't mentioned more, and/or that guide just doesn't automatically come packaged with the correct length bolt.

Otherwise TDI, appreciate your input, good thread albeit a couple years old.