Hey Guys,

I need to buy some parts to finally get the 2000 2.5 Ranger that's been sitting in my garage since January back on the road. I'm in the middle of replacing plugs, wires, timing belt, and tensioner, and figure I should replace the water pump and accessory belt tensioner while it's all torn down. Anything else I should replace while it's torn down, like cam or crank sensors? Pretty much everything on the truck is original and never been touched.

What brand parts do you recommend? I try to stay with Motorcraft, especially when it comes to ignition parts and sensors, but their water pump, timing belt, and tensioners are 2-4 times the cost of Napa or other generic brands. I don't mind spending the extra money if it's worth it, but if generic parts work just as well, I might as well not throw money down the drain. My plan is to sell the truck sometime this summer, so I won't have it around for long.

I sure am glad I decided to inspect the timing belt. With 120K+ miles on it, there were so many cracks in it, I can't believe I got the truck home!

Thanks much!

 

If you like Motorcraft parts and can stand the wait, why don't you try Rock Auto. I've bought Motorcraft parts from them and the price is quite reasonable (I think). They don't always offer something from Motorcraft - it depends on the part.

I also use Napa, but I've noticed a lot of their parts are made in China any more. Even the good old trustworthy brands are getting their stuff made "overseas" (aka China) so it seems like a crapshoot. I do avoid the stuff that is too cheap to believe. Ain't no way I'm buying $10 brake pads. I stay away from the lower-priced stuff and buy mid-to-upper priced known brands. And "known brands", to me, doesn't mean the stuff that came along after O'Reilly's gobbled up all the parts stores in my area, which has probably been 10 years by now.

That's just my approach. I don't have a statistical database with which to back up my approach to auto parts. Everything has changed and it's not to the benefit of the consumer for the most part, except for those who slap on cheap parts to flip a car.

 

for parts like water pumps, clutches etc I use the duralast stuff from autozone. Lifetime guarantee on most of the stuff and they do honor them. Guess they figure most folks wont keep a vehicle long enough to worry about but I have R&Rd almost all accessory parts and replaced them with the waranty parts with no questions asked.

So if you are going to unload the truck why worry about generic parts?

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. Rock Auto seems to have the best prices for parts in general, so I'll try to stick with Motorcraft where the prices aren't outrageously higher than the generic stuff. The water pump may be one item I cheap out on simply because the Motorcraft part is so much more.

It's been hit and miss with parts store brand stuff for me; it seems like more often than not the part fails early and I have to do the job all over again. I went through four Napa glow plug relays on my F250 before buying the Stancor that's been running strong for 5 years, and I changed countless "lifetime warranty" alternators on my old Omni GLH. I do have an O'Reilly's starter on my F250 that I swapped out in their parking lot when mine died with my trailer in tow out camping, and that seems to be holding up okay.

I want to treat this truck right and install quality parts because even though I really should sell it, I keep trying to talk myself into keeping it around. I've already got KYB Gas-A-Just shocks and General Grabber AT2 tires on the way for it.

 

I want to treat this truck right and install quality parts because even though I really should sell it, I keep trying to talk myself into keeping it around. I've already got KYB Gas-A-Just shocks and General Grabber AT2 tires on the way for it. [/QUOTE]

ok. now your in trouble. what is it about these little trucks that makes us make daft decisions.
im in the same boat with my 2002 b3000, got it on boxing day for $500, then came the new ignition and oils ect, then copper discovery at3's, and then the kyb shocks, and then the tranny took a dump, so now my cheep truck is way over budget, so what the hell, im now in the middle of a new paintjob for it as well

 

For some parts Motorcraft is almost a must-have, for others it's not as important.


I've been a little disappointed in the past few years when I ordered parts (ball joints, tie rod ends, brake pads) made by companies like Moog, AC Delco and Raybestos and they were all made in China, especially considering the prices they charge. But, the stuff all looks well made at least.


And yeah, I can't leave anything well enough alone...I got my truck for $800 with a bad transmission from my place of work. Now it's getting a junkyard tranny, small lift, 32" tires, cat back exhaust...

 

I bought a new (not rebuilt) water pump from Napa. It failed 3 days later. They gave me a new one, but I would have paid $50 - $100 more for a part that didn't cost me another couple hours of my time. But, how would you know which part is going to last?

If your time isn't worth anything, a lifetime warranty on crappy parts has value. However, I'm sure you'd rather be doing things other than replacing parts that shouldn't fail so often.

Unless you have 5 cars/trucks already or absolutely need to get rid of it for other reasons, keep it. Once you get something in good shape, don't get rid of it. I regret selling my Ranger that I bought brand new and maintained for 21+ years. The only way I'm getting rid of any vehicle I currently own is by giving it to one of my kids, driving the wheels off of it until it has no value other than scrap value or if it gets totaled in an accident. It doesn't make sense to get rid of a good vehicle (even if it's old). If you're going to buy something used to replace your Ranger, you'll probably end up buying someone else's problem.

 

I took all of your advice and went with Motorcraft for everything they haven't discontinued (which isn't much) by using Rock Auto and Tasca Ford. I had to go to Tasca for the Motorcraft stuff Rock Auto didn't carry, such as the timing belt and tensioner.

My guess is I'll end up keeping this truck around once I'm done fixing it because I won't get much more out of it than I'm putting in at this point. It should also be a decently fun truck to run around town in as well as a good substitute for loaning out to people who know you have a truck and want to borrow it. The F250 is my baby and I don't like lending it out.

 

I mostly use Ford parts from my local Motorcraft Distributor & their price often beats big box discount stores.
BWD = Borg Warner parts have been ok for me when Motorcraft isn't available, or priced Way too high for what the part is. BWD makes OEM parts for the OEM's. The Ranger BWD IAC is just one example of a more reasonably priced part that's held up fine for the past 5 years.

 

In my quarantine induced boredom I'm thinking of doing some basic tune up stuff (plugs, wires, fuel filter) and then front brakes on my 98 4x4. Motorcraft still quality parts? I can get all the parts I need via Rockauto.

 

I have some reservations with rebuilt Motorcraft engines and transmissions, but, in general, Motorcraft still has good parts.
Just keep in mind that the Motorcraft parts that came from the factory were quite often made in North America, but he replacement Motorcraft parts could be made all over the world, China included.

 

The engines used in Rangers don't take well to plugs brands other than Autolite or Motorcraft, so this one is easy. Make sure you use double platinum, the reason is valid and you will replace them much sooner if you don't do this. AFA plug wires go, the price difference between Autolite/Motorcraft and cut rate brands isn't much and it's nice to know that they are of the correct length and will deliver OEM performance, so this is another wise choice. I've used WIX air, fuel filter and tranny filters with confidence and had good luck. PVC valve I've used Autolite/Motorcraft and Standard, again with good results. Now on the front brake pads, I've had s_h_i_t luck with the OEM pads installed new, and my foolish mistake to try them again. Those things are messy and leave black crap on the wheels. The problem was resolved by upgrading to Akebono pads and for best results and predictable metal in the rotors (think, reliable and safe) I turned the OEM ones and will do the same next time. The Akebono pads feel as though they have better stopping performance then OEM and they don't leave black brake dust on the wheels. And while you're in there, I'd strongly encourage replacing the slides, rubber boots and the plates the shoes rest on when installed. There's my results, and with performance, reliability, and durability being the #1 goals, and paying a fair price for this being #2.

 

Good to know about the pads. I had Akebono Euros in a couple of my previous BMWs and they were great. OEM BMW pads dust like crazy and turn wheels black pretty quick. One thing I noticed was that initial bite was weaker than OEM pads. How is it on the Ranger?

As far as the rotors go, I could turn them, but I'd rather just throw new ones on, and yes I'll do new hardware. Motorcraft rotors fine, or something else?

Should note, the reason for changing brakes is because the ones I currently have squeal like mad. It's actually embarrassing how loud they are. I've had two shops look at it and the response from each was "you just have noisy pads". They have plenty of life left, I just want them gone.

 

I can't recall any noticeable change in initial bite, but it's been awhile since I installed. I have noticed that there's been, percentage wise, a large price drop on those pads. As for rotors, I turned mine but if I were to replace due to wear making them non-turnable, the replacement would be Motorcraft. Tired of seeing people post pics of weird things like cracks around lug nuts. Another thought on rotors, some folks who go the aftermarket road opt for ones that have added vent holes for what they perceive will be better cooling. Worth noting/considering is that these holes alter the contact area between the pad/rotor. Something else, if there was meaningful benefit in swiss cheesing rotors for cooling, then the manufacturer would probably have done that, even if the added cost of the rotor resulted in them being found on upper trim levels for the vehicle. Food4thought.