I wish I had access to random JY pumps for just 60$

This here - nashville - is truck country.. Not one left at any wrecking yard within 150 miles..

And we have many scavengers who comb the yards pulling and reselling any part of value on eBay.

So every one is snatched pretty much day one when it hits a junk yard, I don't know where they all go..

I got it on there - but ran the battery down bleeding the lines out unfortunately..

It was kind of a pain in the aaa, not tough just mostly uncomfortable crawling and reaching around in a mess of fuel..

Unfortunately it did happen to be a 5/16 12p on the gear, so had to ***** around the neighborhood looking for pretty much the only tool that I don't seem to have.

But got er' in.. Will fire her up and see tomorrow .. I have phone book - plastic on hand just in case it's a runaway - don't know who's been in there afterall .. Safe or sorry or something..

Find out tomorrow.. Later

 

Okay - Update

After a good crank session, I weren't gettin' no fuel from out the cracked hard lines ..

Good Call DOC
- If no luck the metering valve or whatever under the top is prone to stick when sitting without fuel in it or old fuel, you can remove the top and unfree it -

Not knowing how long this pump has gone unused it was time to take a look at what we have here.

Popped the top to find a good (not so) patina of rust inhabits all the linkage springs and through throttle shaft ..

And indeed the metering valve was quite stuck ..

So .. Did a good bit of wiggilin' and getting things moving again, and replaced the top cover ..


RUN AWAY MOTOR .






just kidding ..


So I put it back on, and with a little more cranking - some ether - and persistence ..

Got her to Fire :thumbsup

Really sounds good, and the ol' gal is no longer belching toxic smoke + that's a plus

Most is good - but some is still not 100%

But the good is that it runs smooth, no smoke, good sound, and i've taken her on a quick ride down the highway & - no surging - stalling - bucking - smoke - no hot start problem

- - -

Now for the less than good .. This may be attributable to a still sticky metering valve / linkage - springs .. but time will tell .


When I take off in 1st the motor dies - half times - the rpm's for a quick moment before catching up again ..

A temporary solution was to turn up the baseline throttle screw to 1050 rpm's -- enough so that when it drops motor speed it dips to 600 (instead of 300) and doesn't stall ..

Also there is a 1/4 second delay from the moment I stomp on the pedal to when it throttles up ..

and let off the throttle it takes a moment to wind down, then can dip below the baseline rpm ..

This may very well be that the metering valve and linkage is still sticky and might free up with use ..

I plan on filling the linkage - valve area with seafoam and letting it sit overnight ..

????????????????????????????????

- But wouldn't it still keep at baseline rpm and dip no lower if it was a spring - linkage - valve problem ??

????????????????????????????????

If you have any suggestions they are appreciated ..

I plan on letting it soak to clean, and driving it in hope it free's up .

but is there any other adjustment for this throttle response / low rpm un-surge

???????????????????????????????

Also a question about timing .. I found it likes to be advanced , just as advanced as I could wrench her without risk to the lineset ..

It was a little nice and clackety .. but once I got it on the road and smashed the pedal a few quick strokes something free'd up
and she seems to have found even more advance .. It's very clakety, sounds good - kinda really loud, but runs good and zero smoke ..

So - now keep in mind I have no turbo - and fuel doesn't show obvious signs of being turned up ..

Is a highly advanced timing really a big concern for egt's ?? ??

During what conditions are high egt's prevalent ?

I'm no hot rod, but do drive sustained rpm of up to 2,600 rpm's on the highway . Not much hills to climb ..

Thanks Leroy

 

 

? ? ? ? ?


All I see is a grey square box - with a frowning piece of paper .

Indicating that my intra web connection is too dahm slo o o o o w

To load this - Video ?

 

As long as your pump isn't turned up (burning black smoke), then I bet your EGT's are ok.

You should fill your filter with ATF, run the engine for a minute for the ATF to sit in your IP and injectors, and let it sit overnight. That'll clean up that old IP a little.

 

How to Manipulate the Metering Valve on 6.9 / 7.3 IDI Injector Pump ? IDI Online

I don't have much info on that except the video. It's a lot easier to explain with video than text.

 

Oh Okay, well yes, it's that little gigger that rotates in the backside of the pump top body.

there's a little spring above it and it moves by the tab'd part on the left hand side that goes front ways to the governing spring ..

I wiggled all that little diddy alot and got it to move alright .. but it's probably got some flecks of rust or varnish there up under the seat .


Anyone Else reading this - If you remove the top cover you must go front to back - not anyway to the side - and catch the tab with the fuel solenoid hook

if you miss your engine self destructs - always keep a haynes repair manual on hand - not to read - but to cover the suck hole if it dumps .

 

Good to hear that you got your truck running with the used IP.

x2 on using ATF to soak the innards of the IP and injectors overnight. ATF makes my IDI chatter less and I know my IP is on the way out. Keep us posted.

 

Okay - Update..

I read up on the physics and theory of operation of the db2 pump some more, referencing the military manual, stanadyne booklet, and scouring the forums..

Seems like the symptoms indicate likely a misconfigured - variable speed (droop) in the linkage springs preloaded by the guide stud or nut thereon ..

So.. I am just not going to make any adjustments that I don't fully understand.

So my problem that needed solving was - how to limit the linkage assembly that closes the metering valve without knowledge of the intracacies of the pump..

If the valve is forced open, not to fully close, then it can't stick jam shut, or bog down lower than idle speed..

Okay, ready for flamage if you want to call me a dern fool redneck, but I have devised a layman's solution..
​​​​​​
At the back of the pump, the linkage pivots on a little stud operating the metering valve.. I wanted something here to make a mechanical travel limiting stop.

After a few minutes I thought of the perfect device..

It's a plastic - 1/4 in. Concrete hole screw expander..

I drilled the hole one size up, and it fits like it's supposed to be on there, further it cannot come off upwards or to the side, without pulling forward the linkage tab out of the way first.

The round flat face hits the wall off the housing keeping just from closing too far, further it will be a good hold down for trying other slightly larger fender washers to experiment with pre load..

There is enough room to move free above it's spot in the housing, and if it ever did fall off, which I don't think it possibly could, it is too large to fall into anything and cause a problem.

The results.. Immediately solved the throttle response issue, must have it cracked open just enough to give it a start.

On quick acceleration drops it is better than before, only going so low to stall 20% of the time as opposed to 100% of the time, and consequently I was able to reduce the baseline idle to 900 comfortably.

I'm gonna hunt up / buy an assortment of small washers that I feel would fit, and spend a day experimenting with how far it likes best and then hopefully can turn that idle down and drive well at all speeds..

Yes, it's the wrong way, but it's essentially like installing another set screw limiting how far the metering valve can close internally.

Pics
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Also, I realize that too big a washer would likely prevent the motor from shutting off, in which case I'd pinch the fuel line and try a size smaller..

Ultimately I don't know if - this will work, but it's something, and I feel the truck is drivable now. At least now I can get around and fine tune it later..

Still trying to get pics to post..

S l o o o o w inter web communication error

 

Re-sized and it uploaded White peg of doom (or glory????)

 

Limit stop -


IF this ends up being a viable solution, with some suitable flat washer that works well..

I will make a facsimile out of a bit of copper tube brazed to a copper washer with exacting tolerance for permanent long term use.. So as not to worry about plastic degradation in fuel.. Though I can probably do it with this block plug and some kind of washer alright.

Will update as it goes.

Comments ¬

​​​

 

You should contact Justin at R&D or Thewespaul on OB about your questions. They know the insides of these IP's like no one else. Thewespaul wrote this thread and it's full of good info: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/d...g-guide.83813/

 

Thanks!

Right on target.. I was thinking that there was an adjustment somewhere involving the guide stud..

And here plain spoken..

\//////\////////\///////////////

The next adjustment that can be made is the "minimaxx" rod. This rod runs through the center of the governor assembly and controls your minimum and maximum rpms. This adjustment is on a sliding scale so as you increase your maximum rpm, your minimum rpm increases as well, and vise versa. Because of this, in most cases you will need to lower your idle with the adjustment screw on the the throttlebracket/lever. Since rpm is controlled by fueling in a diesel, I have found that taking this adjustment all the way in has net 10 ccs of fuel (20% increase) with the allen bottomed out on its lock nut and up to 15ccs with my custom locknut that gives you further adjustment in the minimaxx assembly:

(To show difference in locking nut width)

To adjust this first locate the screw in the back of the injection pump, circled in red here:

Break the locking nut loose with a 1/2 wrench, then screw the allen in with a 3/16 hex. Tighten the locking nut down to 7 ft lbs and check idle rpm. I will be making a seperate thread on installing and adjusting the minimaxx with my custom locknut, I will link it once I have posted it.


/////\///////\///////////\

Credit to / Thewespaul

Why do they write 100 page books that fail to mention a min/max setting??!?

I'm going right out to turn this up, the idle was also set super low when I first got it running... maybe it was rebuilt but ran poor because idle / gov rods' were set way too low.. Idk, but gonna go out right now to try this and hope it does the trick sounds like it..

Thanks

 

Remnants of a surprisingly annoying 'S' cap / thanks for the branding stanadyne..

Success !!

I had to back it in 100% to get the desired effect / it was 'way out there' comparatively..

It still drops up to 100 rpms below baseline rpm if I try to make it do it - but it's perfectly drivable off idle now..

Now have very snappy throttle response and no super drop to oblivion..

I can still make it stall, but only when I am really trying to, with a quick light jab and release of the throttle at idle, but certainly won't be any problem under normal driving conditions.

So maybe I should look to get new governor springs to get that last little bit out of it, or order that custom deep set locknut to get that extra little bit of range, but for now, it's certainly alright. A project for sometime down the road.

I turned the base idle down to 800 and it's doing fine.
​​​​​​
No little surging / hunting, no misfires throughout the rpm range - very pleased this little project seems to have worked out well.

I don't know what I'll do if it loosens up and starts running any better.

The truck sounds absolutely amazing, super clackity better than just about any other diesel I ever have heard.

Thank you for the advice, and
​100 karma points to Thewespaul for posting on that world wide web on how to adjust the min/max stud.

I might go to town tomorrow now that I know that it's going to do well, if I do I will record a video and post it..