Injection Pump Replacement - Tips Tricks Install + Identification *
 

Hi :)

Hey .. so my IP finally is crapping all over the road .. I think probably an internal seal letting air in because the advance pegs wildly and unpredictably esp at higher rpm's ..
but now even at low speed operation ..

I don't have $1,000 to buy fueling components - that I wish I could afford .. so I'm going on a crap shoot and taking a chance on a budget pump ..

I ordered one from a junk yard - yes i know .. but they are offering a 6mo warranty that it runs .. if not send it back ( I pay ship ) and they will call their network of yards
to find a replacement .. if none can be found .. they refund the money .. so that's the plan anyway - hope I luck out with a banger ..

The cost is almost core pricing anyway, and I only have this truck as my daily driver, so I can't do without at least 2 pumps, one to drive anyway ..

bonus , mostly there extra line set .. bent .. but i'm wanting to build a pop tester anyway so at least one'l be put to use, and the others stuffed away for a rainy day.

First .. this is the first time messing with the fuel system, except for lift pumps, return lines - rings .. fuel lines , and one injector .. so I haven't had to remove a pump
and would like to ask for pointers .. I did a quick search, and this is what i found .. please rectify my misgivings if these procedures are incorrect, or if there are any
pointers to add ..

mark between mounting flange and boss for timing ( not required because new used pump .. but will mark and try to line up aprox for replacement anyway. )

disconnect accel cable, fuel lines, elec. wiring..

remove fuel lines as assembly with pump , to facilitate easy replacement on replacement unit

do not remove timing gear cover, and it should hold the gear in place (correct ?)

the pump shaft is keyed (correct? ) so it should only go on one way and be nearby in timing right ?

is there anything else i should mark along the way or anything i'm missing?

remove the oil filler spout, and then remove 3 12p 1/2 in bolts holding the gear to the ip shaft ( do these not fall into the cover ?! )

then remove the 3 bolts holding the body of the pump ..

slide back, up and out ..

sound okay ?

replace oil spout mating surface with rtv gasket when finished ?

I have a few extra olives (somewhere) that i'll dig out .. for the inlet and from the filter base ..

+ + + links to any thing relevant to this here

* * * * * *

Questions for timing .. sometime ago i looked up a you tube vid showing a guy using a strap tie down to an accessory
bracket and then to a fuel line .. so the pump can be run with the hold down bolts loose for timing it while running without
spinning the pump and ruining it .. is this advisable, and is that all that needs doing ? loose bolts and careful strapping?

* * * * *

For the Super sluth's out there that have had their hands on a few pumps .. The data plate for the used pump reads out
application for 90-92 F - E series .. and it came purportedly off an 87 F350 .. so it's not the stock pump ..

My untrained eye see's white wax on the bolts indicating a rebuild at some point .. also there appears to be what is left
of a sticker or tag on the backside of the IP top cover .. now only the remnants of adhesive .. has anyone seen a rebuilder
that places a tag in this spot and uses white wax?

* * * * * *

Also can I remove the fuel inlet (nut ?) without guts flying out of the pump or otherwise doing any damage ? I doubt they
will cap it, and it already looks like there is crud in or on it .. would like to remove it and clean it if possible ( maybe a screen ?)
in gasoline and make sure it doesn't drink dirt ..

* * * * * *

Also included is a pic of my old pump .. I ran well for 2-300k since i've had her and sat for 10 years before that .. so she's 20 years old
at least .. blue tag - strange my old pump # is DB2-4369 - when DB2829-4369 is showing for 85 F series .. anyone familiar know the
significance of the color tag and slight variation in part number ?

My Used pump is in the mail .. scheduled delivery tomorrow



Pics included .. may have to stagger them in .. any advice - knowledge - guesses appreciated ! Thanks

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c25537fd1.jpeg
'New' (Used) Pump

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...dd2ad18ecf.jpg
The Ol' Trooper



TBC - Don't want to Overload the Internet -

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...1fd816645.jpeg
xxx
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...c03396c60.jpeg
yyy

n v s g r f y k d
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...f74509f6e.jpeg
db2 6.9
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...f0d551d6c.jpeg
octopus

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...29c57cc271.png
bust this dirty nut ?

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...3382dfef81.jpg
fuzzy x-tag?

Has nobody ever installed an Injection Pump around here ? Chirp.. Chirp..

Any advice about questions asked ?

Are all the people on stupid facebook? I don't know - I don't have a facebook. Why does autocorrect capitalize the F of facebook - when I don't care.

can I remove the fuel inlet (nut ?) without guts flying out,

And are basic install procedures outlined above accurate?

Here's my video on the IP replacement:




Correct. DO NOT remove the cover, or you'll have to remove the front plate and retime the gears.

Yep. The IP can only go in one way, so it will line up with the same position. Then you just need to realign your IP to the gear housing to adjust the timing degrees, but if you align it well (with a marker), it should be ok.

Nah, but if you want to fix up your injector line retainers, that would be a good use of time: Injector Line Retainer Hack (to keep the nut in place) ? IDI Online

Right on. My video talks about this. It'll be easier in a truck. I try to keep my injector lines ON the IP, because it makes them easier to reinstall the whole thing in the future.But either way works.


Here's a good video of how to tell if your used IP might be ok for use: How to Determine a Good IDI Injector Pump (IP) from a Bad, and Explanation of the IP Cam Internals ? IDI Online

Throw away your olives and inlet metal line and get the R&D IDI Performance IP Inlet elbow fitting. MUCH better and doesn't leak like the other stock crap.

I wouldn't do that. Sounds sketchy and if the strap broke or slipped, you'd be f'ed. Use my method of timing (see video):


IIRC, I've removed that inlet nut without issues. See my first video to see if I did pull it off.

HTH. I gotta run, busy day, :)

Thanks for the reply, I live way off in the country and only get 1-2 bars cell, so vids don't work for me unfortunatly .. But thanks though.

Question, I was just looking at a write up and says the gear to shaft is 5/16” 16p bolts??

I read previously they were 1/2 12p bolts..

Which is it? I borrowed a 1/2 12 p socket because I just keep standard 6p typically for wrenching../ is it

5/16” 16p bolt or
1/2" 12p bolt???

I guess I will find out soon enough, just asking, maybe you know

Thanks Nick _ Genscripter for the link to that “required reading"

"clearest explanations of the internal cam workings of the IDI IP. He shows how to do a quick inspection, how to prepare an IP for storage/shipping, and how the cam components fit together."

This sounds highly relevant to me, but I can't watch it..

Anyone super bored with good internet connection, if you have time can you watch it and give me a play by play of what they're talking about.. Maybe maybe not.. Just checking.

Ups man just dropped off the package.. Will open it and see what we have as soon as I click Post....

S l o o o w w I n t e r n e t
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...aa9cf12400.jpg
Smells like cosmoline - kinda nice actually
In

Okay, so first observation.. Looks okay, but looks mean nothing -

Definitely had a rebuild tag, that has been removed.

No slop in the shaft, first turn it was stiff, then freed up and turns as I suspect it should..

I hear 4 distinct sucking sounds from the inlet at each rotation.. And sounds like clinking somewhat like a fishing reel.

Is the clink sound normal?

Okay, cleaned the debris out of all the fuel ports, lubed the linkages and filled the pump with a mix of 3 n' 1 oil and clean diesel to set overnight.

Absolutely no way of knowing, but what detritus I see caked around the nooks and crannies looks like hay or corn - farm dust.. It did arrive from the Midwest farm belt.. So I'm hoping maybe it was rebuilt by a reputable shop and spent the remainder of it's time working on a farm. Wishful thinking and Just entirely speculation - there's a good 50/50 chance it was a tired old freeway machine that's all tired out, or badly built / screwed up.. Just have to try it on.

Find out tomorow if she'll run.

I'd say just put it on. In a truck, it's a pretty fast job, and if you have a timing light, you can time it pretty quick. If it doesn't run right, then soak it in ATF for a night and see if it clears things up. If not, then it might be a bad pump. I'm sure it'll be fine.

Yeah I agree, just gonna put her on there and hope for the best. Doesn't sound like it'll be so tough to install and hopefully it runs..

Thanks

I'm gonna chime in here since I've ran several jy pumps over the years because they're dirt cheap around here ($60)

That rear inlet is just an adapter, it has an oring on it if you have a set of viton orings replace it, if all you have is nitrite leave it be

I force a hose over that rear inlet and run it into a can of diesel and turn the pump which ever way it is and make sure it primes up first, it will prime it just takes a while and should become difficult to turn once it starts pumping fuel. You will need to run some jumper wires to it from a battery to activate the fuel solenoid. Also make sure the advance plunger on the bottom side isn't stuck, it has the arm going down to push it.

It's a major pita if you get it on the truck and it won't prime! If no luck the metering valve or whatever under the top is prone to stick when sitting without fuel in it or old fuel, you can remove the top and unfree it but if you install the top wrong it can run away, most of the time killing the key will still shut it off but not always. Learned this the hard way!

I would strongly recommend you do a atf/diesel klean overnight soak on it once it's on and confirmed running

All in all I've ran probably six different pumps, one eventually got hot start woes (worn main rotor aka junk) the rest the seals eventually failed and would drip diesel/suck air

A new pump is definitely the way to go but in a bind a poor man will always find a way, can't make money to eat without wheels!

My 6.9 has the Allen head bolts that attach the pump to the gear, which is likely what you have, the 7.3's used 12 point 5/16 bolts, both are interchangeable