Front lockers
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,271
Likes: 229
From: Gulf Coast, FL
Front lockers
Anyone have opinions on a front locker. Trying to see if there is a true advantage or just extra money for other stuff.
I'm planning on a rear locker, just figured if I change gears then put a locker in the front.
I would be trail riding, not hardcore just getting to the hunting area. Access roads, fire breaks, etc.
I'm planning on a rear locker, just figured if I change gears then put a locker in the front.
I would be trail riding, not hardcore just getting to the hunting area. Access roads, fire breaks, etc.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 192
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From: Machais/Snohomish, WA
Front Lockers Have always made all the difference for me.. I've put them in all the Jeeps and 4X4 Trucks I've bult and run. in the F-350 a Good choice would be ARB with the ability to turn them on and off as needed as well as having an air compressor available to fill up tires. but if Money is a concern Detroit Soft Lock is a great Setup Tired and True. If you want to go really cheap you can step down to a Lock rite (Made By PowerTraxx) Lock Rite works well but it's loud and jumpy. There's lots of options out there for lockers but you just have to investigate them to see who makes one for the F-350. Good luck and let us know what you find. (I'm curious)
Your Resident Foneguy
Your Resident Foneguy
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Joined: Jul 2003
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A front locker certianly helps. They are excellent traction aids. I owned a Jepp with them in both the front and rear and its 'going' ability was impressive. But I would never consider using them in any axle of a vehicle that wasn't strictly for trail use. I second Foneguy's suggestion on putting in an ARB with the added suggestion of using an ARB in the rear as well. That is if you are set on a locker.
I think dual limited slips such as the gear driven Truetrac from Tractech would serve you well with the uses you describe. They wont wear out. They are trouble free. They wont affect road manners, and they are less expensive than the ARB's. A locker's advantange over a limited slip is pretty much only found when you have the suspension crossed up enough to have little to no weight on a given tire. Something that really doesn't happen when your "trail riding, not hardcore just getting to the hunting area. Access roads, fire breaks, etc."
I think dual limited slips such as the gear driven Truetrac from Tractech would serve you well with the uses you describe. They wont wear out. They are trouble free. They wont affect road manners, and they are less expensive than the ARB's. A locker's advantange over a limited slip is pretty much only found when you have the suspension crossed up enough to have little to no weight on a given tire. Something that really doesn't happen when your "trail riding, not hardcore just getting to the hunting area. Access roads, fire breaks, etc."
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 110
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From: SoCali!
HeavyAssault,
I agree with the other guys about ARB'S, they are sweet lockers, and work perfectly. Very cool if money, and length of installation are not a consideration. Detroits are almost bulletproof, and you do not have to think about them, they are there when you need them. If you have a single wheel F-350 (Dana 50 front) I believe you are limited to an ARB or Lock-Rite. If you have a dually (Dana 60 front) you have more options. If you intend to use your truck as indicated, you could probably get away with a locker in the rear, leave the front open. You would be suprised how well something will climb even in 2WD with a locker in the rear. If you plan to 'wheel hard, nothing climbs or pulls through the mud/sand/etc. like a 4WD that is locked up front and rear. One more thing, if anyone tells you about noise and driveability issues with a Detroit, it is a consideration with short wheelbase Jeeps/trucks that are street driven, but a Detroit is barely noticeable in a long wheelbase truck like a CrewCab.
check out www.ring-pinion.com
have a great day!!
Tim
I agree with the other guys about ARB'S, they are sweet lockers, and work perfectly. Very cool if money, and length of installation are not a consideration. Detroits are almost bulletproof, and you do not have to think about them, they are there when you need them. If you have a single wheel F-350 (Dana 50 front) I believe you are limited to an ARB or Lock-Rite. If you have a dually (Dana 60 front) you have more options. If you intend to use your truck as indicated, you could probably get away with a locker in the rear, leave the front open. You would be suprised how well something will climb even in 2WD with a locker in the rear. If you plan to 'wheel hard, nothing climbs or pulls through the mud/sand/etc. like a 4WD that is locked up front and rear. One more thing, if anyone tells you about noise and driveability issues with a Detroit, it is a consideration with short wheelbase Jeeps/trucks that are street driven, but a Detroit is barely noticeable in a long wheelbase truck like a CrewCab.
check out www.ring-pinion.com
have a great day!!
Tim
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Roswell USA
Originally posted by SoCalPowerStroke
One more thing, if anyone tells you about noise and driveability issues with a Detroit, it is a consideration with short wheelbase Jeeps/trucks that are street driven, but a Detroit is barely noticeable in a long wheelbase truck like a CrewCab.
check out www.ring-pinion.com
have a great day!!
Tim
One more thing, if anyone tells you about noise and driveability issues with a Detroit, it is a consideration with short wheelbase Jeeps/trucks that are street driven, but a Detroit is barely noticeable in a long wheelbase truck like a CrewCab.
check out www.ring-pinion.com
have a great day!!
Tim
Very good point there. I see your runnin 38's w/ 4.3's and a Detroit. I will be orderin my 8" and 37's next week but I won't be able to regear until next year. I was considering an Auburn. And 4.3's were also recommended to me for ice and snow conditions due to my mods I'm assuming. But I have been really interested in a SofLock. FYI, we do plan on gettin about a 25' TT in 05 though. Can you offer any input on 4.3's/4.56's or Auburn/SofLock combo? Thanks!
Last edited by tankhead; Sep 25, 2003 at 12:26 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
I agree with all the prev posts. Locker up front is awsome. But only if you really need it. I use it for plowing and pulling heavy loads up steep dirt grades and pulling tree's over etc. for the D50 only an ARB or a 2510 lockright are the options $1000 or $300.
Good luck
Good luck
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,271
Likes: 229
From: Gulf Coast, FL
I really think the ARB kits are the best option, but cost is just too much for the amount of use it will receive.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
Likes: 48
From: Lyndonville, Vermont
I didn't go with the ARB cause I didn't need any trouble at all. they are prone to fail esp in 30 below zero weather where I hang out. Plus my idea of always being prepared is not to put all kinds of breakable junk under the hood. No more wires hoses and stuff if it can be avoided. Plus an arb is only for serious offroad since it won't ratchet at all like a locker will. I've had lockrights for 10 years in my toyota and wouldn't have it any other way. Try and pull someone out of a ditch in the snow without the front locked.
My 2 cents...
Dick
My 2 cents...
Dick
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Well' I just re-geared and put in dual arb's.I looked at a front ls and an aggressive one is about four hundred bucks and the arb was 634. For two hunny I got a far superior product imho. An ls, even a strong one, still does not transfer 100% of the power to both wheels. I will probably use it once a year but I imagine that if i am in a situation where my rear won't get me out I am going to need a full locker.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
Heavy Assault
Yes I did the work myself. Why not the detroit for the rear.
The noslip is a good choice but not for the money you can get a detroit for 100.00 more if I remember correctly and thats why I didn't go for the noslip. Plus the people who deal in lockers told me the same thing. And the detroit is 10 zillion times better.
Dick
Yes I did the work myself. Why not the detroit for the rear.
The noslip is a good choice but not for the money you can get a detroit for 100.00 more if I remember correctly and thats why I didn't go for the noslip. Plus the people who deal in lockers told me the same thing. And the detroit is 10 zillion times better.
Dick
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 33
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From: Md.'s Eastern Shore
Are these noisey? What about the fuel mileage? I'm new to this so whatever help you can offer. All I know is that it sucks when you get your truck stuck in a corn field after a long day of goose hunting. The Detroit Soft Locker sounds like it might be the thing for me. How much do they cost? Is it hard to install? And do they need to be set up like a rear.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,271
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From: Gulf Coast, FL
I was looking at the install costs. I could do the POWERTRAX myself, I have no experience with backlash with the rear gears.
If I decided to regear then I would certianly go with a DETROIT. I wanted some opinions on the front locker. I can see by the responses that it would be a good idea as well.
If I decided to regear then I would certianly go with a DETROIT. I wanted some opinions on the front locker. I can see by the responses that it would be a good idea as well.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 110
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From: SoCali!
Tankhead....
I personally have not used an Auburn, although I have had friends who installed and used them. I think they are probably marginally better than a stock LS unit.
When I regear gasoline trucks to run37's-38's, I use 4.56's.
With your truck, going from a stock 265/75/16-3.73 to a 37-4.30
setup will decrease you 60 mph r.p.m. slightly (approx. 20 r.p.m.).
Going to a 4.56 will increase your 60 mph r.p.m. approximately 80 r.p.m. The gas trucks benefit from this lower gear, especially ones with a few more ponies, like yours!
The Detroits do make some slight noises when disengaging around tight corners while street driven, and also when going from power/coast and back to power a slight 'clunk' can sometimes be felt. This is not detrimental to any component of the drivetrain, just the way a Detroit does its duty.
have a great day!
Tim
I personally have not used an Auburn, although I have had friends who installed and used them. I think they are probably marginally better than a stock LS unit.
When I regear gasoline trucks to run37's-38's, I use 4.56's.
With your truck, going from a stock 265/75/16-3.73 to a 37-4.30
setup will decrease you 60 mph r.p.m. slightly (approx. 20 r.p.m.).
Going to a 4.56 will increase your 60 mph r.p.m. approximately 80 r.p.m. The gas trucks benefit from this lower gear, especially ones with a few more ponies, like yours!
The Detroits do make some slight noises when disengaging around tight corners while street driven, and also when going from power/coast and back to power a slight 'clunk' can sometimes be felt. This is not detrimental to any component of the drivetrain, just the way a Detroit does its duty.
have a great day!
Tim
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 9,303
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From: Lyndonville, Vermont
H Assault
It wasn't that bad. You pull the axles, diff cover and 4 bolts to take the diff out remove the ring gear. You should get new bearings. Press them on the new locker and install everything. Usually no need to set anything up or change anything...bearings are pricey but should be done.
It wasn't that bad. You pull the axles, diff cover and 4 bolts to take the diff out remove the ring gear. You should get new bearings. Press them on the new locker and install everything. Usually no need to set anything up or change anything...bearings are pricey but should be done.