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Ok, I'm not talking about the valve cover gasket .... I meant the rocker or push rod cover located on the left side of the engine behind the dip stick and distributor it does leak over time: see this link ... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...tough-job.html
Damn!! Did not know about this!! Thanks for pointing this out. I’ll be sure to get this replaced as well. More than likely this is all I’ll need to replace to fix the lean, but since I’ll also be sending the fuel injectors to get rebuild and the exhaust manifold gasket changed, I may as well also change the valve cover gasket. I’ll update what happens next week.
Damn!! Did not know about this!! Thanks for pointing this out. I’ll be sure to get this replaced as well. More than likely this is all I’ll need to replace to fix the lean, but since I’ll also be sending the fuel injectors to get rebuild and the exhaust manifold gasket changed, I may as well also change the valve cover gasket. I’ll update what happens next week.
Glad to HELP !! When you open the side cover and Valve cover then you can get a good look at the overall condition of the motor. Ya know looking for a nice bronze patina, sludge, wear ect.
Those Filters you cleaned were those found in the smog pump?
Glad to HELP !! When you open the side cover and Valve cover then you can get a good look at the overall condition of the motor. Ya know looking for a nice bronze patina, sludge, wear ect.
Those Filters you cleaned were those found in the smog pump?
yes. That’s what’s inside the filter can that feeds the smog pump.
yes. That’s what’s inside the filter can that feeds the smog pump.
So I finally installed the diverter valve and it works now. So before the old diverter would not stop bypassing the air and the sound was constant. now once the truck warms up i can hear the air diverter valve switch and begin injecting air into the converter.
So I finally installed the diverter valve and it works now. So before the old diverter would not stop bypassing the air and the sound was constant. now once the truck warms up i can hear the air diverter valve switch and begin injecting air into the converter.
so ive been working on the truck and just got done replacing the push rod cover gasket. It wasn’t hard just tedious. Now I’m gonna be taking the top part of the intake manifold runners off to clean it out and also to replace the fuel pressure regulator and remove the injectors so I can send them to get rebuild. The manifold is coated with carbon from the egr. I think at some point I’ll be using seafoam cleaner to clean the rest of the manifold and heads.
Here is another area to clean. The circle is a large screw in plug. When removed allows access to the passages for the EGR into the manifold. The arrows depict the passages that need to be cleaned. I found mine totally clogged.
Here is another area to clean. The circle is a large screw in plug. When removed allows access to the passages for the EGR into the manifold. The arrows depict the passages that need to be cleaned. I found mine totally clogged.
Removed the injectors. Wasn’t hard, just pulling them felt like I was gonna break them. While I was knee deep I went ahead and checked the exhaust manifold bolts and they were tight, so not sure where the exhaust leak is coming from. I also learned that the gasket on the exhaust manifold and on the valve cover had been changed. Also the air temp sensor was covered in soot. So I’m gonna leave it on, use some seafoam then change it out.
so one thing I learned (I always shot before asking questions) is the importance of a vacuum pump. So I tested the EGR valve cuz I was about to replaced it for ****s and giggles and thankfully, I bought a vacuum pump first. So I found that it works fine, as well as the diverter valve that I recently replaced (dammit!). However the diverter valve was not opening before, and the new one is. So that makes me wonder whether the culprit could be the vacuum actuators that are next to the egr valve. Anywho, the point is, vacuum test pumps are super important and can save you some money....buy one. Also, check before buying. I bought a lot of stuff I have now mostly returned. Some stuff I replaced even though it looked good simply because they are cheap.
With that hat being said, I have a diverter valve that works, at least when I used a vacuum pump on it the valve opened. I’ll sell it if anyone needs one. I can provide a short video of it being tested if y’all want. How does $40 sound including s&h.
Here is another area to clean. The circle is a large screw in plug. When removed allows access to the passages for the EGR into the manifold. The arrows depict the passages that need to be cleaned. I found mine totally clogged.
thanks for the tip. I’ll make sure to clean that out tomorrow when I clean the throttle body.
Hope you post an update soon and let us know your progress.
On cold days I could hear the smog pump .... like a fluttering sound. This thread got me started on troubleshooting the noise. So I checked my diverter valve and it holds vacuum. I pulled vacuum from the other end through the line and it held. Then I checked the solenoid with a power supply and it works. Then I removed the output of the diverter and checked for airflow. What I found is at idle no air comes out and it's only after I increase the RPM does the valve open to let air out and into the exhaust. In my case the system is working.
Since it works I bet I fixed it and my best guess is when i unplugged the solenoid and reconnected it causing the solenoid to work the system to work properly. I mean with the diverter output hose off I hear the same fluttering, which is the smog pump pumping air. All hooked up it's totally quite.
We shall see .... In a few days it will be 45° in southern Louisiana.
So I finally got done with the truck. I got my rebuilt fuel injectors and put them in. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and drove the truck around a bit. The leaking sound is still there. I know it has to do with the smog pump/air injection system because i only hear it when i speed up. At idle it is non-existent. The strong fuel smell is gone as well. Since then, I have also replaced all the light housings, side view mirrors, speakers and new radio, and I also replaced the front calipers. I will be installing a 1" rear drop shackle to even the truck out. I also replaced all the shocks. I left the EGR system in place because I ran out of time. Work is very busy during the holidays and I will also be moving next month so im busy packing and have no time to continue to work on it. If I get another full weekend off I may just delete the smog system real quickly. not sure yet. But thats about it. I will post pictures of the truck as it sits right now this weekend.
...The leaking sound is still there. I know it has to do with the smog pump/air injection system because i only hear it when i speed up. At idle it is non-existent... I left the EGR system in place because I ran out of time...
If you are sure it is in the air pump system check the plumbing going to the dump/diverter valve for leaks. Also check the dump/diverter valve itself. I've seen some that melted internally from the backflow of exhaust in a failed valve.
I'd keep the EGR system. Or plan on making part throttle spark advance changes to control pinging. Always fun.
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