So I recently traded my 97 "OBS" due to it having an automatic E40D, for a 2001 7.3 manual with 152,000 miles on it. I was looking around for ideas on a solid, and reliable build, and came across this; <a href="https://www.iratediesel.com/irdie/7-3l-power-combos/ultimate-7-3l-tow-package-400-475rwhp/">https://www.iratediesel.com/irdie/7-3l-power-combos/ultimate-7-3l-tow-package-400-475rwhp/</a><br /><br />I'm gonna throw a South Bend clutch in next week to cover the trans for now.<br /><br />My main question is -- would my stock "internals" (pushrods, etc,) be able to handle all of that, and possibly more? If not, what should I upgrade?

 

I also plan to install ARP head studs, an what not.

 

I'd save the extra dollars and limit it to 400 HP. You won't have any use for more than that with a manual trans anyway. These things shift like a John Deere.

 

The only internal component you specifically named is the pushrods which don't care how much HP the engine makes. IMO stick to the 400 neighborhood, you're not ready for the 500 side unless you have a lot of money to pay someone to build it for you.

 

 

That's about how much it costs to "properly" get to 400 HP. Chip, tunes, injectors, turbo, intake plenums, transmission, traction bars, fuel mods, maybe an HPOP, etc....

500HP gets stupid expensive just for the engine build, then the live tuning, tweaking, and rework drives you to the point of wishing you'd stuck with 400HP.

 

I guess the proverbial "why" always comes to mind with this question. Get some good tunes and be done with it. Go ahead, as @pirate4x4_camo said.....peel out......

 

Irate Diesel knows what they are doing. I would check and make see whether you have forged rods or powdered metal rods (PMR). Then contact Irate and talk to them about what your use is. If you have the money to spend, and want to have a lot more pep in the truck, then I'm sure that combo or some version of it would work great. You won't need head studs, valve springs, pushrods if not going to a bigger hybrid injector.

200/30 injectors: $1800
T4 kit with S364.5sxe: $4000
(including plenums, up pipes, boot kit, clamps, etc)
Full Fuel System: $1100
Hydra with custom tunes: $450
4" exhaust: $250
S&B intake: $290
Extras (glowplugs, UVCH, valve cover gaskets, etc.): $250

Total: $8,140

So with taxes, shipping,etc. and any other miscellaneous things that will pop up, you are looking around $8500 for parts.

 

Transmission and traction bars.

 

FYI I'm not just looking to "peel out" lol. I do a lot of heavy towing. Anyway, I do think I'll stick to the 400-415 hp range. I had NO idea the amount crap that goes into handling, and producing that extra 80-100 hp! Even with less than 200k on my engine, there's no way it'd handle anything near 500 hp, and operate somewhat reliably without a serious rebuild, and another 8k+ in upgrades. Definitely not worth it.

 

Your truck was the first year of 275 Hp and 525 lb-ft (a real barn-burner with +40 Hp and +25 lb-ft from the 2000 MY): Power Stroke Horsepower & Torque by Model Year

Most find a balance around the 350-400 Hp mark.

 

He said its a manual and is already throwing on a South Bend clutch next week. That is why I skipped the cost of a trans.

 

What do you think labor would cost? I have a great mechanic that has pretty modest labor rate. I'm guessing around 4k if I do the exhaust, clutch, and intake myself, but I've never have work like this done, so I'm not sure.

 

What do you think labor would cost? I have a great mechanic that has a pretty modest labor rate. I'm guessing around 4k if I do the exhaust, clutch, and intake myself, but I've never have work like this done, so I'm not sure.

 

If you have modest mechanical skills, and inspiration, you can do all that yourself if you take time to get edumacated. If your mech skills are above average, you really should do this yourself to ensure it's done to your satisfaction. Or if you like your mechanic, have a conversation. Talk about your intended use and budget. Biggest factor is if they have 7.3 experience. Turn them on to this forum if they are inexperienced but willing to learn. Be gracious about it, or skip mentioning it entirely, egos can get bruised.

For fuel just do the Hutch and Harpoon mods, use the prefilter of your choice. Stock pump is fine for these HPs. So are the stock internals. I would not worry about PMRs unless your aiming over 450hp. HP is 85% determined by injectors and tunes. One of our gurus dyno'd 513 HP with nothing but injectors, tunes, and a straight thru OBS muffler.

Also x2 on Tugly's idea of traction bars. Spend the fuel system money here.

My dos centavos.