I did the brake lines on my '66 while it was just a frame. I worked through all those brake lines coming together through an opening under the steering box. ......................Fast forward to today and I am under a '65 F100 installing new brakes and brake lines. This time I am looking from underneath the truck at this brake block (attached to the frame) that is darn near impossible to get the four brake lines into it.
My question: Has anyone moved this block or come up with an idea that makes it easier to attack these four lines in a very small brake block?

Your comments are very much appreciated

rsh1966

 

 

65havyf100
Thanks for the quick reply. So, the four way block has the following:
1. line that goes to the back brakes
2..line coming from the master cyl
3. line to right front
4. line to left front
Please tell me how the three way block works (a pic would also be good). I might do the dual reservoir upgrade. What are the advantages to the upgrade?
thanks again for your reply.
Richard

 

Pictured below is the 3 way block, listed a 'Brake Line Tee' I picked one off the shelf at Oriellys. The dual reservoir will have two lines going down, the front line will go directly to the back brake hose and the line from the aft reservoir will go to the aforementioned tee, with two lines coming out, going to the forward left and right brake hoses. It's a pretty easy switch. I went with the dual cylinder upgrade because I've blown brake lines on two separate occasions (in different vehicles) and if I had the single reservoir pot cylinder I would have been at the mercy of the mechanical emergency brake. I had planned on doing all new brake lines anyway because they were all rusted solid and I had a leaking wheel cylinder and a new master cylinder is only another $50 or so depending on where you buy it. I have a thread from a couple weeks ago that discusses my journey. A dual MC also allows the use of a proportioning valve so the relative braking between the fore and aft brakes can be adjusted, not required for all drum brakes but if you ever do a disc brake conversion it will be required.

Enlarged to show texture....

 

If you are not doing a concours correct restoration then it doesn't matter where the block is. Brake fluid doesn't care if it's going up down left or right. Mount the block on the outside of the frame and you'll have plenty of room to work. Everything on my build is going to be done the easy way.

 

These brake valves are a little different than the all-wheel drum distribution block you're talking about but, you could relocate the block something similar to what I did on my '69 F100 and on a friend's '65 F100.

I made a bracket to mount the brake valve in my truck ('69 F100) to the top of the steering gearbox. I have '77 F100 discs on the front and the stock '69 drums on the rear.




Brackets I made to mount the brake valve to the booster studs, underneath the MC, on this '65 F100. '78 F150 discs on the front, '65 drums on the rear.

 

Steve, Eric and John
Thanks for the options that you have given me. I am for sure going to simplify these brake lines. As for Concours correct I am not into Car Shows.
thanks again for your input.
Richard

 

Everyone here is giving great advice! I must say though that 65navyF100 and I have spoken a bit about the whole process and I am 100% with him on his suggestion and performed the same upgrades about a month ago. The duel pot master I got was about $30 on summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAZ-13-1386 It makes for a nice safety upgrade as 65navyF100 stated, plus it eliminates the block (My block did not come off nicely and was mangled beyond use).

Once installed you have one line to the rear that T's at the pumpkin and connects to the front port on the master cylinder... The front port is for the front res, which is significantly smaller. The rear res and port then connect to your front lines. I opted to use 2 three way blocks for the front lines... one is directly connected to the MC and allows the factory brake light switch to be placed in line, then the second is down stream below the steering box to T off between the driver and passenger side wheel cylinders.

Recap, & more to consider:
1. The rod included with the MC may have to be shortened to fit, and your current rod may not be long enough. I took a bit off at a time with my bench grinder and tested a few times to make sure I didn't remove to much.
2. Don't forget your brake light switch has no port on the new MC, so it also needs a T.
3. The rear lines go to the front res, and front lines to rear res.
4. This is a safety upgrade and can also accommodate power brakes down the road... all of which are direct bolt ons.

Good luck.

 

RattyFord
Thanks for sharing your up grades and the details were excellent. However I guess I would need to see a pic of the T for the brake light.

thanks
Richard

 

Here's a link to two of many available.

 

Thanks John, I printed off both the pic from the links.
Richard

 

I'll try and get a pic tonight to show you what I did.