I have a 1997 F-250 LD 5.4 4X4 that I am changing all the brake lines, the front and rear rotors and drums, shoes and wheel cylinders.

There is a short brake line that comes off the master cylinder and then into this aluminum block mounted directly below the master cylinder and diverts it to the rear of the truck. When the brake fluid comes from the master cylinder into the block it exits from a different port through a fitting that is attached to this aluminum block. The steel brake lines that go to the back of the truck attach to this fitting.


I have been trying to find out what this aluminum block and the fitting is officially called so I can try and order the fitting that goes into is as it is all rusted. I know that when I start replacing lines a new fitting will need to go in there.

Can I just get anything from NAPA that would enable the new brake line to attach directly to the aluminum block or does it have to have the fitting?

I have looked at tons of schematics and can't find anything. I have ordered everything for the truck EXCEPT this part and the brake lines so I am getting in a hurry to get these things ordered.

Also I was wondering if all the brake lines are the same size on the truck?
What size brake line and what size brake line wrenches do I need to get?
If I buy a 25 foot roll of brake line will a normal flare tool work to make the flares on the end of the brake lines? Or would I be better off just ordering the brake line close to what my measurements are.

I appreciate any help..... I have been looking around for quite some time and I wasn't able to find anything that helped me out.

Thank you....... This is a great web site!!!

 

Sounds like the RABS unit.

 

I think your referring to the pressure reduction or brake bias valve.
That is in all vehchles at some point because you can't allow full pressure to go to the rear brakes.
Reason is when braking, vehichle weight is transferred to the front taking weight off the rear wheels.
If full pressure were to be applied to the rear, the wheels would lock up losing all traction.
Not a good out come, leaving the fronts to do all the work stopping the vehichle plus loss of control under some conditions.
Good luck..

 

Also to answer your question, no, they are a double flare. You can get a tool to do this, but they are hard to make and not at all quick. Why are you wanting to replace them all? If you are having leaks or brake trouble, understood. Otherwise steel brake lines are not routine wear items. If you have a leak of course fix it, otherwise the only usual replacement brake lines are the rubber ones.

 

I recently had an episode where I had to slam on the brakes to avoid a deer. The brake pedal went almost to the floor. I checked and the line going from the Master Cylinder to the aluminum block had a hole in it. I replaced it and got to looking at the other lines and they are not too far away from leaking as they are pretty rusty. Just worried that something is going to happen and afterward I am going to say "Man I wish I changed out those brake lines". I figured that since I was changing out the brake drums and shoes it would be a good time. The rear brake lines are shot as well. I am hoping to get another 5 years out of my truck so I would rather do it when its convenient for me rather than when its 5 degrees out (My wife and I have a bet going to see if I can make the 5 years).

I've had the truck a year now and I am really liking her. (Just put both sides of the catalytic converters on it, new front rotors and pads, ) Money pit??? Oh well. She is a good truck.

I keep asking and can't get an answer because I am sure everyone is like me and forgets things this meaningless but it would really help. I have been making flares and double since I was about 14 working in the shop on the farm tractors so I have had pretty good luck. (You are only as good as your teacher!)

 

Funny you should mention this. I just had the crossover line blow out on me due to rust. There is a small aluminum block in the DS wheel well. From the block it diverts over to the caliper on the other side. That was the line that blew out on me Monday. I went to the local parts store and got 2 40" lines along with a coupler. Good to go now.... but like you, that got me thinking about the rest of my lines.

Might go out and stand hard on my brakes to see if I have any other weak lines.

 

Yeah, I had the LF steel brake line on my old 97 F150 explode on me. Luckily, I was just moving around in the driveway as it would have been catastrophic had I been towing anything out on the open road when it happened.

 

I just replaced all my brake lines from the MC to the rear drums because I had a steel line blow out when I had to slam the brakes. I still think its a miracle that I didn't rear end the car that cut me off. The truck came from the Chicago area so it's got alot of cancer underneath it. Other than the door bottoms, the body it pretty rust free.

 

I have a pic with the fitting that I am wondering about circled. I was wondering if maybe this is some type of check valve. I have been looking for a fitting like this in the parts books and on the internet and I can not find anything. Any ideas about what this is?

 

The pic wont load for me, but if its the one I am thinking it is, take it out of the aluminum block and bring it to NAPA. They have adapters for this type of situation. Bring both ends of the line, much larger fitting in the block if yours is the same as my '98. I just did this with mine a month ago, to bad I didn't save the invoice for the 5$ fitting then i would have the part #