If the battery was completely disconnected and spontaneously self-discharged, how could it be the fault of a ground or cables? You have already removed them from the equation.

A battery in good condition that has no load on it discharges, but at a very slow rate - around 5% per month for a lead-acid battery. If it is self-discharging significantly faster than that, there is a problem with the battery.

Low overall system voltage can wreak havoc on your electronics - usually fully resolved once proper voltage is restored. It still doesn't explain several other issues you're having, like your OBD readers not functioning, but I'm not convinced that isn't a completely separate issue anyways.

If you're working with a battery that is NFG, any further diagnostic efforts will be haunted by low voltage. You won't be able to be certain of any of your diagnostic results. If the battery is bad, it has to be replaced anyways, right?

 

 

Ah, at the passenger side terminals, not the passenger side battery terminals. My mistake.

Your 2000 is different than my 2002 in engine bay wiring, and many have had huge draw issues. Hang on, I'm looking for an excellent writeup one of the members did here.

 

I *think* it was @Nicmike who did an incredible writeup on his journey to resolve a parasitic drain issue on his Ex - but I can't for the life of me find it and I don't see it in the tech folder (can't believe it's not there). Hopefully someone with better search-fu will be able to direct you to it. IIRC, it was ultimately a fusible link.

*edit* https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ternators.html

There are also a ton of threads on parasitic electrical system drain, which can be a long process to diagnose - not difficult, but time-consuming.

 

 

I went thru 3 obd elms thinking they were bad. Only to find out, gotta have key turned to acc for it to "talk"..

 

 

The PCM is out and on its way to Chattanooga. Thanks for the recommendation on that guys!

 

I have a friend who recently experienced a no start. We trouble shot everything, checked all wiring, checked all components and then pulled our hair out checking fuel delivery and everything else we could think of. He sent his PCM to Chattanooga, and sure enough it was bad. Guy at the repair shop said it was the first time he had seen a PCM go bad in that way. It was a re manufactured PCM it turns out...not the original.

 

Egads, I can't believe it either!

It's almost like, the guy in charge of that folder isn't omniscient and has to rely on others to bring note worthy threads to his attention! If only a notice were posted somewhere alerting people to this request from extra eyes that come upon good tech threads......



All joking and ribbing aside, please guys, our tech folder is only as good as the content and the content is provided by all of you. Please don't hesitate to send up smoke signals if you come across something you think will be helpful.

Stewart

 

Update time!

I got my PCM back from Chattanooga. He said both it and the Hydra tested fine. However, the PCM would sometimes not start if a PATS-disabled hydra chip was attached to it. My Hydra does not support PATS and the latest set of tunes I got from 1023 do not have PATS enabled either. The PATS module itself controls the light on the dash, so that light flashing is just the PATS module complaining that the PCM isn't talking to it. With the PATS-disabled Hydra chip and the PATS-disabled tunes, the PCM basically doesn't care what the PATS system is telling it. I couldn't even tell you for sure that the light wasn't flashing madly at me before. I do know that it was flashing after I started it, but the truck ran fine so I never paid any attention to it.

Jonathan at Chattanooga diesel tech said that he would recommend re-flashing the PCM with a non-PATS tune to solve the occasional no-start condition. I told him that I have 160/80 single shots and he flashed my PCM with an appropriate, PATS-disabled tune. I plugged it in, and no start. I kind of thought that this was going to be the case, to be honest. After exchanging a few e-mails with Jonathon I feel like I have a better understanding of how the PATS system works. So anyway... there is good news at the end of this story. I can now READ CODES!!!!

Both my bluetooth adapter and ArmyLifer's will now sync up with my Kindle and Torque pro can communicate with them. Still no-go with the wifi adapter and the iPad but at least I can get codes from it now. I pulled two codes. One is P0676 - which is a bad #6 glow plug and the other is an EBP code (I don't have them in front of me). I looked at the sensor data and it was reading 44 PSI - with the engine off. So I ordered a new EBP sensor from Clay. I'll check out the wiring when I replace it, but I remember pulling that sensor last year and even after cleaning it, it looked like it was on its last legs. I should have replaced it then.

So hopefully the new EBP sensor will fix it and then I can work troubleshoot that glow plug.

Thanks for all the help with this so far - especially ArmyLifer!

 

Andy, when you get a moment inspect the pigtail on the EBPS as well. Not too long ago a member here had a no start due to what he claimed was a shorted and frayed pigtail wire.

Have you tested the GP's to ensure they each read 2 or less ohms?

I am really curious to find out the cause of your no start.

 

The wiring looked OK to me. I replaced the EBP sensor and the reading was back to sane (~14.2 psi). Still no start. I cleared the codes and the P0676 code never came back. No EBP code either. In fact, the only code now is P0683 which has been an intermittent issue with my truck since I bought it. The glow plugs work fine so I never paid much attention to it.

I looked at the live data while it was cranking. The IPR was between 60% and 65% but the ICP was stuck at zero. I unplugged the ICP (oil in the connector again) and I saw the ICP go up to 2,333 psi during cranking. Still no start.

So I guess an injector o-ring spontaneously failed? I feel like I'm chasing my tail around with this one.

Time for a cody test?

 

Does it buzz test ok?