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Possible lightning strike - now no-start

  #16  
Old 10-08-2018, 05:17 PM
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First off, sorry for posting and running. I've been out of town the last two weekends and I've started a new job that takes up a lot more of my time. It does pay more so that's always a plus but I haven't had much time at all in the last couple weeks to think about this.

So let me answer a few questions. First and foremost, this truck does not have a GPR, it has a GPCM as all Excursions do. My GPCM has been a little suspect for a while because it had set codes in the past because the PCM was unable to access the diagnostics circuit on the GPCM. Since the glow plugs always seemed to work fine, I pretty much ignored it because a new GPCM is a few hundred bucks.

When I checked all the fuses, I pulled each one and looked at it. I didn't replace any, but none looked burned or blown at all. Where are the fusible links located? I didn't think those were used any longer.

With the adapter, it's a little confusing to me that neither one works in either vehicle. I would almost bet that neither one of them ever worked on the Toyota and I didn't know it because I never tried it, and neither work on my truck because the PCM was damaged in the storm. It seems to be the most likely explanation. The LED light comes on with both adapters so I know they're getting power, they just won't show up in a wifi or bluetooth search. I'm pretty tech savvy and I'm sure I'm doing that part right.

As far as troubleshooting this goes, the fact that the glow plugs no longer come on eliminates a lot of the possible culprits because a bad IDM or CPS wouldn't cause that behavior. I don't have a spare IDM accessible, either. I would probably have to get one from ebay or a local yard. I agree that the first problem to sort out is getting the codes pulled though so I don't want to spend a bunch of money on parts just yet.

Thank you for the link to the PCM rebuild guy, Sous. That's certainly good information to have, should it come to that.

So I think my next step is to see if I can borrow a scanner or see if I can get either adapter seen on a third vehicle.
 
  #17  
Old 10-08-2018, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by andym View Post
First and foremost, this truck does not have a GPR, it has a GPCM as all Excursions do.
Andy, sorry for your troubles. I hope you get it sorted out soon.

My Ex does have a GPR. Apparently the switch over date is 24 Oct 1999. Mine was built a few days before that.
 
  #18  
Old 10-08-2018, 05:41 PM
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Ok, as *almost all* Excursion do. Thanks for the correction.
 
  #19  
Old 10-08-2018, 05:50 PM
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Can I use a Windows app with either one of those OBD-II adapters Sous linked above?
 
  #20  
Old 10-09-2018, 03:27 AM
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Does your "THEFT" light go out after turning the key on? Thinking that maybe the PATS went wonky.

Assuming you have a tuner on it, disconnect it and see if there's any change.
 
  #21  
Old 10-11-2018, 10:08 AM
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My battery charger was delivered yesterday but itís been raining nonstop ever since. As soon as it stops Iíll be able to get out and charge the batteries back up. At this point I canít tell if the glow plugs are working or not.
 
  #22  
Old 10-13-2018, 07:21 PM
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Another update. I pulled both batteries and had them tested. Both were able to produce over 700 CCA each so they appear to be healthy. I thoroughly cleaned the battery terminals and cable ends so everything should be making a good connection. The starter sounds healthy but the engine just won't start. I replaced every fuse that the owner's manual said was related to the PCM. There were 6 fuses in total. Now the glow plugs come on like normal so that's progress at least. When I turn the key to on the theft light blinks rapidly for about 2 minutes. It continued until after the glow plugs finally timed out and shut off and then switched to a 1-6 blinking pattern. I've heard that the theft light doesn't produce recognizable codes but I'm just not convinced of that yet. Just because Ford didn't tell us about it doesn't mean that their programmers didn't use meaningful blinking codes.

I still can't get either OBD-II adapter to work. I haven't bought either one of the better adapters from amazon because of the price and the fact that I just don't know if they're the problem or not.

Still no start though. What next? Pull the PCM and then the IDM and look for what? Burn marks? Or just buy the better OBD adapter?
 
  #23  
Old 10-13-2018, 10:11 PM
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Andy, I found this:



 
  #24  
Old 10-13-2018, 10:18 PM
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Since we have no codes to work with (information vacuums are difficult to diagnose in), and we KNOW that PATS can by design cause a no-start state, I would first work on that.

My workshop manual differs from yours due to some electrical system changes in 2002, I don't know if the troubleshooting flowchart differs drastically but I'll give a look.
 
  #25  
Old 10-14-2018, 10:16 AM
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I tried the PATS reset procedure but it didn’t work. The light still flashes rapidly. Then I pulled the hydra chip and the theft light went out instead of flashing but still no start. I also tried the spare key in case it was the key but no dice there either. I pulled the PCM but I can’t see any burn marks or anything. I will probably ship it off to Tennessee this week and at least eliminate one more thing as a cause.
 
  #26  
Old 10-14-2018, 11:04 AM
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I don’t really understand the PATS thing. When I ordered my tunes from 1023 and loaded them, they would not start the truck. I don’t remember if the theft light was flashing or not but it would not start. Then he sent me a set of tunes with the PATS enabled and it started right up. He said that the PATS was disabled in the first set of tunes so I don’t understand how something that’s disabled could prevent the truck from starting.

I also swapped the blower relay with the EEC relay. No change.
 
  #27  
Old 10-14-2018, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by andym View Post
I will probably ship it off to Tennessee this week and at least eliminate one more thing as a cause.
That is what I would be doing if I were in your situation.
 
  #28  
Old 10-14-2018, 11:41 AM
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There is a way to test the communication between PATS and the PCM, but it requires more diagnostic equipment and information than you have at your disposal. Communications failure between the PCM and PATS is likely to be a PCM issue, but not certainly. So sending it out will indeed eliminate it as a cause, or identify it as the cause (or victim of another issue).

I like to do my own troubleshooting, I marvel (sometimes with gutteral, single-syllable words) at automotive engineering and enjoy what I learn in the process. But I have more time in my day than money, and my 7.3 isn't a daily driver, so there's little downside for me to spend the time "learning".
 
  #29  
Old 10-15-2018, 10:59 AM
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I think something a little stranger is going on here. I threw the charger back on it last night and hooked it up on the passenger side so the batteries would be fresh today. After I disconnected it this morning, I checked the drivers side battery with my cheap, harbor freight multimeter and saw the voltage was at 12.74. Perfect. I checked the passengers side just for kicks and saw it was only about 12.2. That’s weird. Both batteries were hooked up so it should be the same.

I disconnected the passenger side battery and checked it’s voltage. 12.2. This was the side the charger was hooked up to. I checked the drivers side again at its posts and saw 12.7. Now here’s where weird turns weirder. I checked the voltage at the now-disconnected passenger terminals and it was 10.2 volts. Checked the drivers side battery at its post and it was 12.7. The keys were not in it at any point. All battery terminals and posts are bright and shiny.

What would explain this? A bad ground? Should I just replace all the cables at this point? I’m sure they’re original. Is there anything else that could explain this weird behavior?
 
  #30  
Old 10-15-2018, 11:56 AM
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Long Shot..EBP sensor

From anutha forum
  • This was the first problem I ever had with my truck. When that sensor went bad the truck died dead. It wouldn't do anything. I had towed home and went to bed. I got up the next day and it worked just fine. The second time it happened, same symptoms, I had it towed to the dealer. It took them a few days, had to call Ford and finally found it was that little bugger. $100 later I had a new sensor and was on my way. THEN, the third time it happened I got out, unplugged it, and drove back to the dealer. Luckily I asked them if I could unplug it with no ill effect. They said yes. The new sensor went bad within a few months and they still had the nerve to charge me another $100. Since then, I haven't had any problems. But it's a wierd sensor, when it went bad, it shorted out the computer and they couldn't read any codes at all, and my AIC went nuts when I turned on the key. Kinda scary.
 

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