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Coil running hot

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Old Sep 25, 2018 | 10:03 AM
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Coil running hot

I’m currently building a project truck. It’s a '79 Ford pickup with a 302 stroker engine in it. The original ignition switch was broken and I wanted to install an ignition flip switch with a push button starter like on a race car. I got the engine to run a couple times, but now it won’t start and the ignition coil is getting hot. It does not have a ballast resistor installed, but I have one to try. Also I’m on my second stock ignition module as well. Have to get a new one of those. Just cranks & cranks and nothing happens now. What could be causing the module to fail other then possibly not having the ballast resistor? Also, would I need to upgrade from that stock module to possibly an MSD box? Thank you, Jeremy
 
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Old Sep 25, 2018 | 10:24 AM
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I'm guessing that the problem is the lack of the resistor. I think you don't want more than 7 or 8 or 9 volts going to the ignition and coil when in "Run."

The only time you want the full 12 volts is when the starter is cranking.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2018 | 04:47 PM
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Module should get 12v. Resistor goes to coil.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2018 | 06:21 PM
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That is a nice clear diagram.

With simple switch, it is hard to safely and simply re-create the OE circuit where the coil gets power through the resistor wire running and full battery voltage with starter engaged. If you really want the simple switch, may need to get one of the aftermarket ignition options that do not need the resistor.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2018 | 08:30 PM
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You can tap the 12V+ for the ignition, during cranking, from the "I" post on the Fender Mounted Starter Relay.

But don't ever try to get it from the "S" post, or you will have starter run-on problems - ask me how I know...

There is a diode or something between "S" and "I," which prevents starter run-on.
 
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