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weather stripping help

  #1  
Old 09-23-2018, 04:13 PM
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weather stripping help

I was looking for some pointers...I bought new door gaskets from LMC . I cleaned the surface , added adhesive and the fit appears good. Problem is the door wont close properly. I can force it closed but then there is a large gap in the door. Not sure how to fix this. The weather strip is obviously alot thicker than the 40y/o stuff on the door. Could the door be adjusted? that seems like a pain in the ***.. Any thoughts
 
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Old 09-23-2018, 04:38 PM
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I went with the eighties weather seals,no adhesive,,,,mine is out of the weather rolled windows down one side and used a ratchet strap snugged up,for quite a while,,,,,that compressed it,to close good
 
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Old 09-23-2018, 04:53 PM
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You can loosen the door striker bolt a bit (think that is a T50 torx) and let the new seals get used to that, then set it in a little further for a final set.
 
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Old 09-23-2018, 06:26 PM
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The door aligns horizontally, wondering if i adjust bolts on the door side of the hinge , maybe i can get it to close easier.
 
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Old 09-23-2018, 07:18 PM
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I saw a few other posts that seem to indicate that Dennis Carpenter makes a better Weather Strip. I guess Im having a hard time seeing the difference . I looked at old strip and it looks the same just smashed.
 
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Old 09-23-2018, 07:51 PM
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You can adjust the in-out orientation of the doors via the hinge-to-door bolts in the front of the door itself. The hinge-to-body bolts only adjust up and down and front and back.

But it's said that if you can get them closed, to just do so and leave it for at least several days, in order to re-educate those seals...
 
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Old 09-24-2018, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by meangreen92 View Post
You can adjust the in-out orientation of the doors via the hinge-to-door bolts in the front of the door itself. The hinge-to-body bolts only adjust up and down and front and back.

But it's said that if you can get them closed, to just do so and leave it for at least several days, in order to re-educate those seals...
I can get it to latch but it binds on the front edge of the seal so there is a gap on the back edge id say a half inch so the door wont completely close
 
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Old 09-24-2018, 11:38 AM
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I don't want to be "that guy" but I'd start by throwing that LMC junk in the trash and getting something of quality. Honestly, ANYTHING would be better than LMC weather stripping.

I spent an entire weekend with my father replacing everything for the doors (window, felts, jam stripping, etc) and it took about 6 months for things to start cracking and deteriorating. Everything leaked from day one. Nothing fit correctly. Windows rattled around in the tracks. I could go on. He spent several hundred $ on everything and not one piece lasted a year.

As of today, everything has been in there a little more than 3 years and it's literally crumbling apart every time I roll the windows up and down. Go with Dan Carpenter or Bronco Graveyard's kit. The kit from Bronco Graveyard isn't any more expensive than LMC but from everything I've heard it's a great kit.

Sorry to be a downer, but that LMC junk shouldn't be legal to sell. Complete rip off. Called to complain and they basically told me to kick rocks. I guess that's why they always advertise their service, not their quality.
 
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Old 09-24-2018, 01:56 PM
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I had the LMC stuff and had similar issues as to what you are describing. I then switched to DC and the difference is noticeable. The DC rubber is much softer and more pliable.

Thant being said, when the weather got hot my rubber started sagging due to improper installation (my fault). Basically I cut it a bit short and had stretched the upper corners. If I would have fitted and glued correctly it would have been no issue.

Instead of buying more DC rubber I opted to try the newer clip on rubber to see how it works. Very cheap and simple install. I am having a bit of a problem with closing the door due to the rubber thickness and had to adjust the door striker , but I will give it some time and see if it compresses. If not, I'll adjust the door to hinge bolts to push the door out a little further.
 
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Old 09-24-2018, 04:33 PM
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Well I ordered the DC seals. We will see. I’ll post a side by side comparison.
 
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Old 09-24-2018, 07:27 PM
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I went with precision with my eighties clip on,I like their products ,I believe it is what the Graveyard sells,I did use Carpenter felts and anti rattlers and wing windows,quite nice
 
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Old 09-24-2018, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Sparty73 View Post
I was looking for some pointers...I bought new door gaskets from LMC . I cleaned the surface , added adhesive and the fit appears good. Problem is the door won't close properly. I can force it closed but then there is a large gap in the door. Not sure how to fix this. The weatherstrip is obviously a lot thicker than the 40 y/o stuff on the door. Could the door be adjusted? that seems like a pain in the ***.. Any thoughts
This has been a problem since day one, because the door weatherstrips sold at the parts counter were not the same as the factory installed weatherstrips.

The factory installed weatherstrips were almost flat, so the doors would close properly at dealers and auto shows. These were not available at the parts counters.

The sold at the parts counter weatherstrips, what the repro's are based on, are much fatter.

And, this is the case for all trucks, not just 1973/79's.
 
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Old 09-24-2018, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by NumberDummy View Post
This has been a problem since day one, because the door weatherstrips sold at the parts counter were not the same as the factory installed weatherstrips.

The factory installed weatherstrips were almost flat, so the doors would close properly at dealers and auto shows. These were not available at the parts counters.

The sold at the parts counter weatherstrips, what the repro's are based on, are much fatter.

And, this is the case for all trucks, not just 1973/79's.

So do you recommend DC?
 
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Old 09-25-2018, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Sparty73 View Post
So do you recommend DC?
Either that, or just go to a junk yard and getcha some seals off of a 1980 to 1996 truck. There are millions of those trucks, so finding a good set is still pretty easy, even some 22 years after production ended. No glue needed!

I think you need only a philips screwdriver to remove them from the donor truck. The rocker panel scuff plate is screwed down, and I think that's it - the rest of the parts which secure the seals are held on with Christmas tree clip-pins.
 
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Old 09-25-2018, 01:33 PM
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I have the Dennis Carpenter 80-96 pinch on in my crew cab. It is thicker and does make closing the doors difficult.

As NumberDummy stated, this is a common problem. I have a similar challenge with my Mustang. I put new weatherstrip on it about 3 years ago and the doors and trunk are still not as easy to close as they used to be with the original weatherstrip.

If you really want less hassle do give the junkyard option a shot as meangreen92 suggested. That option should be cheaper too.
 

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