Would anyone happen to know what pins in the harness are for the coolant temperature sensor, all I can find is for the temperature sender. I had cut the sensor wires along with all other efi related wires out of the harness up until the block connector on the top of the wheel well on the drivers side. on the side going to the computer everything is there, on the side going to the engine bay that's where everything was trimmed. If no one knows the pins, what colors are the two wires? My thoughts are brown with green stripe and brown with yellow stripe, But i'm not positive. With the key cycled to ON the voltage across the two is about 5vdc. Help would be much appreciated.

 

New pressure regulator is here! will be installing tomorrow along with a diy throttle cable bracket. Figuiring i'll take some 1/8" or 1/16" flat stockand cut a piece about a 6" long, bolt it to the two through holes for the heating pad/plate under the manifold and run a second piece 90 degrees to it where i need the cable with a 1/2" hole drilled in it, thinking two gussets about 3/4" tall welded to both for support against the push pull of the cable. Round off the corners with the angle grinder, maybe throw some paint on it...... Thoughts? I know the spectre brackets are popular but I really don't want to wait any longer to get this thing on the road...... IT'S SO FREAKING CLOSE!!!!!! Lol

 

New skookum regulator installed today and guess what? It's still doing the same thing. Cycle the key a couple times to prime it, it dumps at 6psi and makes a thump thump sound so I know it's working. When you start the engine the pressure drops to between 2-4psi and then bleeds off to zero, about a minute later engine sputters then dies as it runs out of fuel. There's no way that regulator isn't regulating. It makes noise when it does. What i'm thinking is that the in-tank pumps aren't pumping gas when the engine runs, only when you cycle the key to on and it primes can you hear the pump running but then again there's the running engine that kind of blocks most other sounds......hmmmmmm. Thoughts to think on. Will be testing the pumps tomorrow to see if they are running when the engine is or if they are only running when priming. Also will be making the accelerator cable bracket. Should work pretty well when done and won't look too shabby either. Lol

 

Have you hard wired the pumps to key on? The pumps get their signal from the ignition module I believe and if the ecm doesnt see a pip signal the pumps shut down.

 

Talking with my father this evening we came to the exact same conclusion. Will be running a test light on the wire found through searching the threads over at F150Forum. The relay is in the fuse box and is the one all the way to the right and second from the bottom. Labeled Fuel Pump Relay, should be a blue and orange wire going to the PCM which is located on the drivers side fenderwell right to the side of and underneath of the brake booster. Will be testing and grounding the pumps tomorrow. The accelerator cable bracket is going to be 1"wide 1/8" thick flat stock cut to size on the through bolts for the heater plate, with another piece cut to length welded perpendicular to the bolted piece so it is oriented up and down length wise. This up and down piece is then cut in half and notched about a 1/4" or 1/2" deep on both pieces and fitted together with the top turned 90 degrees so it's parallel with the carb and engine. Weld up the cuts, drill a 1/2" hole in the top piece for the cable to lock into. That's my plan, so we'll see how it goes tomorrow. Will update tomorrow.

 

So the throttle bracket is done, not what I had planned as it wouldn't have worked out with the original plan, but a functioning bracket nonetheless. It's a piece of 1/8" flat stock cut to about 4-6" tall with a slot about an inch cut deep cut in the top. Cut the original bracket around the hole for the cable, then weld it in the slot. This then bolts in place using one of the tops bolts for the intake/exhaust manifold. When torqued to 27(i just go 30)ft-lbs this bracket should never move. The pumps have been grounded, the blue/orange wire under the second relay from the bottom in the fuse box (aka the fuel pump relay) is the grounding wire for the PCM. I soldered in and heat shrunk a wire that was then bolted to the metal of the fenderwell. Problem though, the engine is overheating running for a couple of minutes idling(setting timing and base idle). The coolant doesn't appear to be circulating and my father believes it to be the radiator. Will be calling the radiator shop tomorrow to see how much they charge for a test. A new radiator is about $50 on flebay so if it's close enough to that, I'll just spring for the new radiator. Progress on the A/C wiring diagnosis to come tomorrow. Took the truck on a quick test run and oh man does it sound and feel like it's got some power. But I didn't run it very fast or very long due to the overheating issue, also i'm not done with the vacuum lines yet, all I have left to do is run a line for the vacuum advance, and for the blower control; all other vacuum hoses have been run and are functioning properly. Progress to come tomorrow. Stay tuned folks, this deal won't be around much longer.

 

There it is.

There is no further need for the ECM. Fuel pump control within the ECM is doing exactly what it should and this is an important safety circuit. Don't just simply wire it to key on! Something must shut off the fuel pumps when the engine is not running. The danger is that in the event of an accident, the engine may stall, the key remains on and the fuel pumps continue to run pushing fuel out to potentially ruptured fuel lines and spreading raw fuel around. Should anything ignite this fuel, well by now you should get the picture and should you survive the inferno, I am sure your insurer won,t be very happy with you.

You can lose the ECM, but keep the ECM power relay and the fuel pump relay and ECM wiring. You can use the ECM test connector fuel pump test contact to control the fuel pumps. Ground it to turn the pumps on. The ECM power relay will provide ignition control. Have a look at a carbureted 460 from a Bricknose to get an idea how to use an oil pressure switch to provide this ground with protection should the engine stall. You also need a circuit to provide fuel pump power during cranking. This can be done with the unused contact on the fuel pump relay and I will draw something up later. It's 0130 here!

You can test your system by simply grounding that fuel pump test connector. It will run, even with the ECM removed.
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Followed up on this and I realized your truck is a 96, so it has the EECV mass air OBDII system, so no test connector like the earlier EECIV systems had. No matter, the theory is still the same. I just don't have drawings of the 96.

You can remove your ECM. There will be a light blue wire with an orange stripe going to pin 80 of your ECM connector. This is the fuel pump enable line and it works exactly like the test point I described in the previous post. Just not as accessible. Grounding this wire will energize your fuel pump relay. I believe all the relays on a 96 are contained in a power distribution box under the hood. The ECM power relay is still energized by the key switch and the fuel pump relay is controlled by the ECM relay and the ground placed on pin 80.

 

Promised a drawing, so here it is.



Also have a look at this thread on the topic of fuel pump control.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...llation-2.html

You can modify the existing Ford fuel pump relay, but you may have to reverse the connections to 30 and 87 on the Bosch relay to make it work.

Oil pressure sensor can be the gauge sensor common on our Fords with the "fake" oil pressure gauge. It's well documented that it's just a switch that closes when oil pressure is present and the gauge reading is just a fixed resistor. With a couple diodes to block the relay from the gauge, a common oil pressure switch could work both.

 

Good sir, you have no idea how much I appreciate the drawing and all the help you've given. Being that this is a "one year only" truck as it's the first and last year for OBDII in the 9th gen trucks as well as the 300, and wiring has just enough differences to be a pain in the ***. Finding wiring diagrams is nearly impossible for the year truck and engine i have. The truck is running and driving, the regulator is doing it's job very well. I recently took it on a good little 2 hour round trip run to stretch it's legs. WOW..... What a difference..... This engine is a beast now. It's crisp, it sounds throaty, low and rumbly and it sounds so good. IMO it sounds even better than a v8. This week has been mostly doing little things, like getting the A/C working, dialing in the carb(setting base idle, adjusting idle mixture, and adjusting fast idle from 2000 to around 1300) and running the choke wire. This thing has some serious get up and go jeez. It doesn't just pull it drags, in first, second and third. He** even cruising 45mph at 1500rpms, you can put the pedal down not even a tiny bit of bog, it just gets up and moves. It's definitely not a drag truck, it's no pony car on take off, but it'll still put you back in the seat until 3000 in gears 1-3. 4th is a little to heavy for serious acceleration, but it still has no problem accelerating in 4th. 5th is very heavy, and doesn't like accel even a little, but neither did the efi. It'll hold speed in 5th just fine, and I understand that's exactly what it's for, just thought i'd say it anyways. Very pleased with the outcome. Still have much to do on the truck such as making sure the A/C stays on, and cooling system isn't doing what I think it's doing..... It isn't overheating, coolant is flowing, but it's also disappearing. I drove it down the road today and was checking stuff out and was double checking the cooling system. Opened the radiator filler cap and saw dry. Took a gallon and a half of half strength to fill it back up. Dad says it's just "burping" air out of the system and need to add coolant accordingly. I'm still suspicious and will be watching it carefully. The gauges are another story. The temperature gauge when it's up to temperature(verified to be at temperature.) is pegged all the way to it's stop on the hot side, even though it's not hot. When you switch on the headlights it goes a 1/2" farther when it's not "at temperature" and cycling the key sometimes it does funny things. The voltmeter is still under scrutiny, but oil pressure and fuel gauges are working perfectly. "Check Engine" light is on, and i run the scan tool, no codes are thrown..... comp is still in..... no codes???? Probably just going to yank the bulb out. The A/C is a weird story. There's four wires, five pins on the relay, but fifth wire spot is an unfilled knockout. (big)Red, green/orange, (little)red/yellow, and grey/white. Grey/white is power for comp clutch coil, Green/Orange goes to high pressure cutoff switch, Red/Yellow also goes to high pressure cutoff switch, Big Red is key on power. If you jump big red to red/yellow clutch engages, but for around five minutes or so then kicks off for same time, then back on. Or so I believe. Don't remember if it's supposed to do that or not..... But it won't engage without that red/yellow getting power which it isn't. I just have it jumped for now. With power on, red/yellow has power down at the switch, but not at the relay. Will be investigating tomorrow if there's continuity or a break in the wire somewhere. Accelerator cable bracket is working great and doesn't look bad at all. Just washed the truck today. Oh it's so good to have this thing back on the road again..... 4 months wait finally over.... More progress tomorrow. P.S, fuel economy has gone up. Going to leave that little teaser right there until tomorrow.

 

So, the project has just hit rock bottom. The engine is running great, only there's now steam coming out of the exhaust and quite a lot of it. As well as the cooling system is losing a copious amount of coolant in a very short time. Even letting it sit overnight it has about a half gallon of coolant lost. The oil looks like a vanilla milkshake and is quickly moving up the dipstick. If i want this truck to keep going down the road it is going to need a new engine...... It was finally going well too..... I am keeping the truck, selling it isn't even an option. Luckily engines are a dime a dozen near me, so I should be able to find another engine on the cheap. The only hard thing will be finding an engine that doesn't have hundreds of thousands of miles, and wasn't hung up dry and put away wet. The 4bbl has been performing wonderfully, giving better power and better fuel economy. So before my engine gave up the ghost, i managed to do a fuel run. From where I'm at, a 66 mile round trip consumed 3.15 gallons so about 21 mpg with quite a number of red lights. That's about a mix of highway and city, shifting at 2000rpm, and accelerating not like an old man, but not like a lead foot teenager either. Overall very happy with the performance so far. Progress will be almost at a standstill until I find a replacement engine.

 

Well that sucks! Good luck with the engine swap.

 

Well good thing is that while i have the engine out I have a new clutch I was waiting to throw in when the factory clutch finally went. It's a 10.5" stage 2 clutch for a 302. Now I know that it's a crap-shoot if the flywheel will have mounting holes for an 11" clutch as well as a 10" clutch and I believe, I don't know this to be factual but I remember reading that there were 300 flywheels drilled for 10" and 10.5" clutches as well as 11" and 10.5" clutches. Those of you who know please set me straight. Otherwise, I guess i'll find out when I pull the engine. Lol. If I thought finding a use-able head was tough, finding a use-able engine that doesn't have a million miles on it is going to be near impossible here. I've only found new and remanufactured engines for $1,600-3,500. Don't have nearly enough to do that. Though it would be nice to do if i could. More to come as the pieces start falling into place.

 

 

Well the truck was running and driving beautifully getting a very nice 22 mixed hwy/city. The truck unfortunately had developed a crack in the exhaust valve seat and deep into the head. Enough so that it lost so much compression it wouldn't fire on the number 4 cylinder. Found a replacement cylinder head, ported, worked and cleaned the bowls, polished, slapped it on and all was well. But two weeks later the engine showed it was burning coolant as well as putting it into the oil. Changed cylinder heads again(I now have a small collection of these as the yards are plentiful and cheap though far away they are.) and was still the same. Upon removal of the head this time around I noticed after lifting the head gasket on the number one cylinder there was a puddle running straight from the very first push rod hole in the block to the number one cylinder. I'm guessing that there is a depression in the block deck that is allowing coolant and air to escape and go where they please. Unfortunately the cost of machining and block prep is far out of my budget so I'm now on the hunt for a donor vehicle with a low miles 300(purple unicorn I know). A rebuilt or reman engine is around $2k and that's about where the machining costs are so that's out of my reach as well. This truck is my means of work transport so the flow of cash has come to an almost stand still. I do have a candidate lined up that has a newer rebuilt engine(supposedly) and the whole truck is $900. Fingers and toes are crossed.