Wiring help
#1
Wiring help
Hey all, having a problem with my 95 F150 with 5.0 and AT. Been getting a bad code for canister purge valve and on start up everything seems normal, then truck revs up and CEL starts flashing for a half minute, then returns to normal and CEL stops flashing. I have replace canister purge solenoid to no avail, so this past week have disconnected wiring harness at PCM and checked continuity on pin 31 to solenoid and found ok, checked for being shorted to ground and that’s ok. If anyone has a proper wiring diagram of the other side of the solenoid valve wire I would appreciate it. I have a Haynes manual, and it shows the other wire ( red) going eventually to one side of the fuel injectors although the Haynes manual shows the wiring diagram for the canister purge solenoid ( Ex AT), which I assume means except automatic transmission which I have. Kinda confused on this. I did a continuity check on the red wire back to the PCM wiring harness and it showed continuity on pin 11. If anyone can help or provide a proper wiring diagram, I would greatly appreciate it. My Haynes manual shows pin 11 going to tad relay........help please
#2
Which tests were you running when got the Canister Purge Solenoid code? KOEO/CM or KOER
Please list the code by number and when it was displayed.
The CANP gets it's supply voltage from the closed contacts of the EEC relay. Many of the solenoids as well as injectors get their power from the same source.
Please list the code by number and when it was displayed.
The CANP gets it's supply voltage from the closed contacts of the EEC relay. Many of the solenoids as well as injectors get their power from the same source.
#3
The code number was 535 if I remember correctly with KOEO and stored in memory.Thanks ria2005 for the diagram, going to do some more wire tracing....... will post what I can find. If other solenoids etc share the same power source and they seem to work fine, just need to find where in the loop it doesn’t make it to the CANP.
#5
#6
Well, I did some more wire tracing with a multimeter and according to the diagram, everything seems correct. I traced the signal wire from the CANP back to the PCM and it showed continuity to pin 11 and nothing shorted to ground, traced the voltage wire (red) to pin 37 and 57 which should be VPWR and had continuity and not shorted to ground. I have the truck in the garage trying to get some things fixed before winter, replaced a front wheel bearing yesterday on passenger side, have a clicking noise on front driver side when 4x4 hub is locked in going to look at today. I did also install a new O2 sensor yesterday as well I am sure it needed. I will try to get everything back together today, start her up and see what happens. Now that I know the wiring is not shorted and good to the pins at the PCM, if I don’t have power to the CANP, might be the connector. I will update results....... thanks
#7
Pins 37 & 57 are not the power source for the red wire. They are the power up pins for the PCM.
As noted above by rla2005 the power source for the red wire is the PCM Power Relay inside the Fuse/Relay box under the hood.
I will guess that you have a 4R70W transmission with SFI.
This might help, Just double click to enlarge:
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As noted above by rla2005 the power source for the red wire is the PCM Power Relay inside the Fuse/Relay box under the hood.
I will guess that you have a 4R70W transmission with SFI.
This might help, Just double click to enlarge:
/
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#8
Sub ford, thanks for the reply. I think I have resolved the problem. When I disconnected the wiring harness at the PCM, I cleaned all the pins on both the PCM and the female connections on the wiring harness, then added a small amount of contact paste to each female connection. I reconnected everything and so far runs like a champ although I only drove it for like 5 miles. I did disconnect the vacuum line that went from the CANP solenoid to the carbon vapor canister and there was bits of carbon? In the line(don’t know what caused this) that I cleaned out as well. Also found that the clunking noise in the front when in four wheel drive was a bad universal joint on the front 4x4 driveshaft that I replaced as well. So I think I’m good. No more 565 code, replaced right front wheel bearing, changed universal joint, new O2 sensor and I installed new spark plugs. I still have a slight miss, but might be plug wires. Noticed when changing plugs, some cables had arc marks where the were up against some metal on the engine. I replaced these about 5 years ago with Belden premium 8mm cables. Might be time for new ones. So much metal brackets and shrouds around plugs it’s hard to keep them off any metal. Going to get some new cables and maybe wrap some electrical rubber tape around any point that comes close to any metal. Thanks for the reply, I was looking at the electrical diagram and it looks like that red wire is common for the fuel injectors, the power relay, and the CANP solenoid along with other stuff.
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