ball joint press info needed
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,704
Likes: 164
From: Southwest Ohio
I have the Astro Pneumatic set, as well as their secondary kit. I have used it for quite a few years on numerous cars. I bought the secondary set after buying my Super Duty, since the kit has the additional cup sizes that are used for the SD. I haven’t had to replace mine yet (F350) but for the cost the Astro set is a great value.
One tip I can give, to keep the kit lasting a long time, is to grease the threaded rod on every use. Makes the threads stay damage-free.
— Dave
One tip I can give, to keep the kit lasting a long time, is to grease the threaded rod on every use. Makes the threads stay damage-free.
— Dave
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: UNION DALE PA
I have the Astro Pneumatic set, as well as their secondary kit. I have used it for quite a few years on numerous cars. I bought the secondary set after buying my Super Duty, since the kit has the additional cup sizes that are used for the SD. I haven’t had to replace mine yet (F350) but for the cost the Astro set is a great value.
One tip I can give, to keep the kit lasting a long time, is to grease the threaded rod on every use. Makes the threads stay damage-free.
— Dave
One tip I can give, to keep the kit lasting a long time, is to grease the threaded rod on every use. Makes the threads stay damage-free.
— Dave
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,704
Likes: 164
From: Southwest Ohio
Correct, I have the 7865 and 7868 add-on kit. I went with Astro because I use their threadcert tool and once had a small issue with it (after many, many uses). Astro’s customer service was excellent and took care of me. Since then, I buy strictly from them.
— Dave
— Dave
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 475
Personally, I wouldn't buy anything other than a OTC. My father's old OTC set was used in a shop for 20+ years repairing heavy equipment and is still as good as the day it was new. The C is thick forged steel and the threads are smooth. I wouldn't think twice about putting a 3/4 impact gun on it. I bent the C on one of those auto parts store rentals before because the was aluminum. Also, on the cheaper on,es the threads are usually rough cut and have a lot of resistance when put under a load. So basically look for a thick STEEL C and smooth threads.
Also, use a high pressure rated grease on the threads, it makes a big difference.
Also, use a high pressure rated grease on the threads, it makes a big difference.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: UNION DALE PA
yes Dave I have spoke to astro about the kits there very responsive when you call, was impressed that there call center was USA based, I did order the 7879 kit from amazon was 120.00 for the kit
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,704
Likes: 164
From: Southwest Ohio
OTC makes superb tools. All my jaw pullers are OTC, plus lots of other goodies. I have an OTC slide hammer that has seen more action than what’s behind my zipper. A++ gear.
— Dave
— Dave
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,704
Likes: 164
From: Southwest Ohio
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,577
Likes: 56
When I was gearing up for my front end rebuild I bought a shop press. I would rather use that for ball joints if you can remove the assemblies. You can make sleeves from tubing. I have several. The thicker the wall the stronger it will be (thin - 3/32" or less - wall will deform easier, but you may still be able to get by with it). I used A36 steel, which is mild/soft steel. The sleeves you get with the ball joint presses are usually much stronger alloy or tool steel.
One of the tools I am planning to build at some point is the equivalent of a very small portable shop press powered with a bottle jack. This way I can get hydraulic power under the truck as opposed to needing to remove parts to place them on the shop press, unless that is easier.
If your ball joints are rust-welded in place I am not sure how well a screw style press is going to work. I had U-joins rust welded shut and with 20 tons on them they still took a hammer to rattle the rust weld loose and get them to move - and when they went they went with a bang.
One of the tools I am planning to build at some point is the equivalent of a very small portable shop press powered with a bottle jack. This way I can get hydraulic power under the truck as opposed to needing to remove parts to place them on the shop press, unless that is easier.
If your ball joints are rust-welded in place I am not sure how well a screw style press is going to work. I had U-joins rust welded shut and with 20 tons on them they still took a hammer to rattle the rust weld loose and get them to move - and when they went they went with a bang.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
The first time I did ball joints I used the loaner tool from my local auto parts store. Great idea but the one I needed had been overstressed so the "C" was more like an open mouth and it wouldn't fit properly to work.
If you plan on going this route I would recommend going to the store and looking at the kit before you plan on doing the work so you can make sure the kit is in good shape and will accomplish the task.
Luckily I had access to a 20 ton press to get the ball joints out/in of the knuckles. If I didn't have that I would take the knuckles to a shop and have them swap the ball joints.
Just my .02
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,229
Likes: 2
From: Oregon
Personally, I wouldn't buy anything other than a OTC. My father's old OTC set was used in a shop for 20+ years repairing heavy equipment and is still as good as the day it was new. The C is thick forged steel and the threads are smooth. I wouldn't think twice about putting a 3/4 impact gun on it. I bent the C on one of those auto parts store rentals before because the was aluminum. Also, on the cheaper on,es the threads are usually rough cut and have a lot of resistance when put under a load. So basically look for a thick STEEL C and smooth threads.
Also, use a high pressure rated grease on the threads, it makes a big difference.
Also, use a high pressure rated grease on the threads, it makes a big difference.
Do you mean Acme threads?
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,238
Likes: 475
I'm talking about the finish on the contact surfaces of the threads. If there's any roughness or tooling marks it can cause increased resistance the tighter it gets. If the surfaces are nice and smooth, they'll slide easier.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 578
Likes: 146
From: Salisbury, MD
How did the 7897 kit work out? Trying to figure out if I want to get that or get the 7868 + 7865 kits.