I picked up a used, what I believe to be a, 4.5" Icon lift with Fox 2.0 shocks for a good deal.
I plan to install it on my '08 F250 CCSB and just wanted to confirm somethings.
First, did I ID the kit right?





Compared to their site picture


Second, no drop track bar bracket in the kit? I noticed other 4.5" kits have one but no Icon and not on the truck I removed this one from.

Third, caster bushings. I thought I seen the Icon kit had come with them but it doesn't seem so anymore. I plan on checking the alignment after the lift but anyone change them?

Fourth, driveshaft carrier bearing drop bracket. Anyone have to install one on this lift? I would guess its required for 6" or more.

Fifth, rear sway bar end links. Any issues? I have the front drop brackets but the rear end links looked stock.

Sixth, stock 18" wheels and 35x12.5 tires. Any issues with rubbing at full lock?

 

Cant help with the questions si cu I have a 2004 but I'd have ALL them parts professionally sand flashed, acid washed and powder coated. No way I'd trust them being rusted and then adding them on my truck and having metal fatigue and snapping while driving

 

They're already at the sandblasters. Plan to chassis save them and top coat.

 

Nice
and no track bar bracket is needed becasue they use a bent adjustable bar in the kit

 

That makes sense. I got an email back from Icon and the 2.5" and 7" kits use caster bushings but the 4.5" kit it's not needed.

 

I installed the icon 2.5 caster bushings about a year after I installed a readylift 3.5" kit. Truck drives much better. If you use an adjustable trac bar, you don't need a drop bracket. Technically, if you use a drop trac bar bracket, you need a drop pitman arm. But tons of us use drop brackets without them. And no rubbing issues with those wheels and tires, other than possibly touching your radius arms at full lock. I run 37's with a 3.5, and +1 offset, no rubbing at all. Also, those wheels are technically to narrow for those tires. And again, many run them with no issues.

 

Thanks for the info Ron. I'll check the caster after the lift and see if it needs adjusting and change it accordingly.
Good info about the tires. Would love to run 37s but I would rather not regear and buy new wheels to do it so I'm back and forth between 35x12.50 or 285/75r18s. Leaning more toward the 285s at the moment.

 

I lifted my truck at 17k miles. It just rolled over 36k. So my tires have 21k on them and are wearing perfect. I've yet to have an alignment done. Camber isn't effected by lifting a solid axle, and you don't mess with the tie rods so tow isn't effected. Drop radius arm brackets adjust for your caster change. These trucks barely had enough caster from the factory. When you factor in an aggressive wide tire, they often drive like crap at factory height, some would even say so with stock tires. IMO, 2.5 degree caster bushings can't hurt a stock truck, and I recommend them to anyone running larger wider tires. It took me about an hour to put them in, using a larger punch, hammer, pliers, adjustable wrench, small pry bar and a jack/stand. I never even took the wheels and tires off. If youre just installing a level kit without drop brackets, I would consider them a must have.

 

I just ordered some Goodyear Wrangle Duratracs in 285/75r18s for the truck. Once the parts are back from the sandblasters (hopefully tomorrow) I'll get some paint on them and get the last couple things for the lift. I've only had the truck for a couple weeks but I'm quite surprised how simple it is to lift these. Coming from the '90s pickups there's a bit more to have to deal with it seems and it's one of the reason my project truck got '09 suspension put under it.

 

Just to update after the sandblasters.



Chassis Saver and top coat to come.

 

I'd want those blasted again, there's still visible rust.

 

Just wanted to update this thread as I always hate coming across dead end threads with no follow ups.
Went ahead and did 2 coats of Chassis Saver followed by 2 coats of Satin Black engine enamel for a top coat on all the sandblasted pieces.


Now I don't know if the place I ordered from screwed up or if it was Prothane's packaging but the track bar bushings were a different number stamped on the bushings then the box and my old bushings had stamped on them. Luckily I know how to run a lathe and turned them down to work.



Fixed and finished product.


Overall finished product.