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Thanks for the warm welcome, FTE! I've decided to make a build thread to document my progress. Maybe I can help some folks with my experiences and give back to the community that has given me so much already.
A little background on me; I'm a plumber by trade, and have very limited knowledge of engines, especially diesels. But I know with the help of the internet I'll be able to tackle any situation that comes up. After all, I work on complicated equipment in high-rise buildings and commercial applications everyday. How much different could a mechanical diesel engine be?
My truck is a 1993 7.3 stock turbo. I picked it up from an older dude, who claimed to be the second owner. The PO claimed that the truck had been used as a Ranch truck, seeing at the most bi-weekly use, with the occasional 5th wheel towing session. He showed me the gooseneck hitch, and wiring for the brake controller and for the trailer power hookup. Classic additional customizations include but are not limited to:
1. Passenger window not functioning
2. Driver's and passenger seat worn down past the foam, into the metal
3. No WTS light (claimed it doesn't light up unless it 'needs to')
4. Custom vice grip headlight switch
5. Custom "Hot air conditioning," no cooling necessary
6. Custom tank selector switch seperate from the usual switch
7. Custom explicit language carved into driver's side door
8. Custom "Gets right on your eye" coating of dust, dirt and grime.
What my PO did not know or tell me about is the US gear aftermarket additions to the truck's drivetrain and powertrain. I found wrapped around a missing part of the lower drivers side dash two items that sold me instantly on the truck. #1 was a US Gear Dual range aftermarket over/underdrive, #2 was a US Gear D-celerator exhaust engine brake, #3 is a set of air bags for the rear suspension (with no sign of a compressor anywhere on the truck)
The truck started right up (was col to the touch upon arrival), and the fluids were not new, but not burned out or low, indicating the PO did maintain the vehicle (other than washing and cleaning it). The truck had plenty of get up and go, drove straight and didnt have any obvious leaks underneath it. I picked it up for $3500 in all of it's glory, no haggling no hustling.
So far, I've put a couple hundred miles on it between getting it home and delivering some furniture, and I love driving the truck. I find the loose steering and squishy suspension relaxing, and it's nice to have the power available once that turbo builds boost. Some quick napkin math showed that I get about 18-20 mpg highway at 70 mph. Not bad for a 6200 pound vehicle! I AM wondering if anybody knows how to tell if the US Gear unit is both OD/UD, or if it is only UD, as it has a HIGH and a LOW arrow, but they are just lights and not buttons. Also, if anybody would like to purchase that Exhaust brake, it'll be for sale in a couple days. I think it's a 3' unit.
That US Gear OD is a good find. Also the truck looks decent.
No WTS light (claimed it doesn't light up unless it 'needs to')
hmmm. That's odd. Does the light turn on when you turn the key? It should blip on for a second just tell you that the light works. If the light doesn't work, then it won't "light up when it 'needs to.'" You should take a multimeter and check to make sure you are getting voltage to the GP's.
You can find a replacement fuel selector switch at the junkyard. I just got two switches just to have in my inventory the last time I went to a Pick-u-part yard.
I think @jayro88 has a US Gear OD. He might be able to tell you what kind of over- or underdrive you have.
I have a DNE2 overdrive unit, which is pretty much identical to the US Gear unit. Other posters are correct, it can only be an overdrive or an underdrive, not both. One setting, low for me, does nothing to change the drive ratio. If I switch it to high, it gives me an 18% (I think) overdrive (lower rpms). Did you check your unit for gear oil? Have you tried shifting it? You do not shift it while you are not moving. You have to be moving and have the drive train loaded. You push the shift button for 2 second and then let off the accelerator to unload the drive train. It should then shift. The units are very simple and hard to kill. They have something like a 35k lbs GVWR. The shift wiring harness can go bad, but is really just a simple 12v circuit. Last time I was towing my TT I think the extended period of heat killed my shift controller box, so I am just wiring up my own.
i have a digital copy of the users manual etc. Let me know if u need it and I can send it to you.
US Gear unit is both OD/UD, or if it is only UD, as it has a HIGH and a LOW arrow,
I can see where you'd be confused, the control says Hi and Lo so it can be used no matter which way the unit is set up. If it's set up as an overdrive, you've got Direct and Overdrive (HI). Otherwise, you've got Direct and Underdrive (LO). Like various manual transmissions, you can transpose two gears and turn the top gear into an overdrive rather than direct drive.
Jayro88-
I would love any information about it that I can get my hands on, and yes I tried it out last weekend and it's definitely an underdrive. I think the previous owner did a lot of hauling and needed the extra gearing. I need to learn how to shift it, because it really *clunks* into gear. Maybe I'm letting off the throttle a little too much when I actuate it. I'll check it for gear oil this weekend when I give the truck a good once over for maintenance.
Do you know of any way I could change the gearing to be an overdrive? Since US Gear no longer supports this device, I'm assuming the parts would have to be inside second hand. Maybe even swap the whole unit for an OD if I found one. One can dream, right? This thing would be a BEAST on the highway with double OD!
I read that when two or more of them go out, then the glow plugs system just kind of shuts down, so I was thinking faulty glow plugs might be the issue. I tested the continuity of the different light bulbs inside of the WTS panel, and swapped them around with each other, still no WTS light. The truck starts good- turns over a few times like a gasser and starts right up. I still need to test the voltage/resistance at each plug. Either way I'm ordering some new ZD-9's and a combination water/pyro/boost gauge for installation this weekend.
BTW, I went to the local junkyard in Wilmington expecting to see more OBS Fords. I found one. There must be more of these Fords still on the road than I thought.
BTW, I went to the local junkyard in Wilmington expecting to see more OBS Fords. I found one. There must be more of these Fords still on the road than I thought.
Sometimes, that's the best you can do. They do have a website showcasing the latest arrivals, but it's not reliable.
Next time you are there, pick yourself up a 3G alternator and wiring harness from a Tbird or Taurus. The bolt holes need to be 8.25" apart. If you don't have a tape measure on you, just go in the glove box, find a standard 8.5 x 11 piece of paper, and use the short side as a measuring tool. If it's 1/4" short of the length of the paper, then you are good.
Jayro88-
I would love any information about it that I can get my hands on, and yes I tried it out last weekend and it's definitely an underdrive. I think the previous owner did a lot of hauling and needed the extra gearing. I need to learn how to shift it, because it really *clunks* into gear. Maybe I'm letting off the throttle a little too much when I actuate it. I'll check it for gear oil this weekend when I give the truck a good once over for maintenance.
Do you know of any way I could change the gearing to be an overdrive? Since US Gear no longer supports this device, I'm assuming the parts would have to be inside second hand. Maybe even swap the whole unit for an OD if I found one. One can dream, right? This thing would be a BEAST on the highway with double OD!
The clunking when u shift is kind of the nature or the beast with these. It is basically a 2 speed manual transmission that you are shifting with no clutch. Engine rpm when shifting and the speed you are going can play a pretty big part. For me shifting into OD isn’t as harsh as shifting out of OD, especially if I am in a situation where shifting out of OD puts me a pretty high RPMs.
I usually dont shift it very much. If I am unloaded I usually just leave the OD engaged. It makes it a little more doggy off the line, but not a huge deal. If I am going to be doing a lot of city driving I will shift it out of OD and just leave it there. When I am towing I just leave it out of OD.
As far as making it an OD vs UD. I am not sure exactly how the internals are set up. Not sure if you can swap some things around inside to get you there or if you would need different parts. What rear gears do you currently have? Another option would be to make your rear gear lower (move to 3.55 from 4.10s) and use the unit as an UD at the beginning instead of an OD at the end.
I will look around for my manuals and get them sent over.
So work has been intense lately, after working 15 days straight, including 24 hour emergency calls, I finally found some time today to do some work on old "Beverly" today. In plumbing, when it rains, it pours... just hope it's clean rain!
I acquired some new Eagle Eye headlights, and after some struggling and cutting, was able to install and adjust them. What a difference that makes! I also got my new BHF filter in, but couldn't install it as it was the wrong part ordered. The filter that I got has nothing for the coupling to attach to, so I'm either going to return it or fabricate some sort of a rubberized gasket material to create a positive seal. The truck is running and starting great, so I have procrastinated the glow plug testing, and concentrated on creature comforts for the wife. Happy wife = happy life. I dismantled the passenger door and found that the PO had used guy wire to hold the window up due to the motor stripping out its plastic gear (apparently a common problem.) I did the 1/4" nut mod and now it works like a charm! I also picked up a r134a retrofit kit and charged the system with refrigerant, and voila! We got cold air!
After starting the truck back up, I noticed the tach isnt registering at idle, it just sits at zero. When I apply the throttle it moves to it's correct position, and while driving is correct, but when stopped or idled it doesnt register anything. I also noticed the OD light blinking on my shifter. The transmission shifts fine though. After doing a little research, it seems like my tach sender or wires might be going out, so replacing that has been mmoved up to priority on my list as I don't want a failed tach sender forcing me to drive home in "limp mode."
Any suggestions on what is causing my tach to act up?
I'll post some pictures of the work tomorrow...
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Imtoasty's project build thread
