Brake issues
Left rear brake not working and the steering wheel would jerk left a few degrees if I hit the brakes hard and then straighten out immediately while still under braking. It is not a pull, just a momentary jerk a few degrees left. If I applied the brakes normally the wheel would not move.
So I inspected all 4 corners and found the following:
Left rear caliper had a frozen slide pin.
Left front caliper pistons were difficult to retract.
Right front caliper had a dust boot issue.
Right rear caliper needed new pads.
Over the past few days I did the following:
Replaced left rear caliper.
Replaced front right caliper.
Steering wheel still jerks left but will straighten out by itself while still under braking, no change.
Today I replaced the front left caliper and the rear pads/
Now the steering wheel jerks right instead of left if I hit the brakes hard. It will not straighten out all the way like it did when it was jerking left.
Wheel jerked left so I replaced the right caliper and no change. Changed the left caliper and now it jerks right. WTF
Any ideas?
First, this will all be a PITA, but I'd go back in and recheck all wheels slides for freedom. The front lower pins have the rubber bushing that none of us cared for. It can cause more problems then the hysteresis it was supposed to provide. But all of this is forensic inspection.
Check all pads for freedom of movement in the brackets. They should slide freely.
Recheck all caliper pistons for freedom of movement. Occasionally we would have new calipers that were "sticky", where just extension and retraction would alleviate. They don't have to be exercised far, only 1/4", one caliper off at a time.
Pads that are left on after pull can have some thermal conditioning differences, and sometimes you just need to wear the surface off in normal driving. An initial jerk then straightening would be something hanging then breaking free, continual pull with brakes on would be frictional change or a hangup not freeing. When we had a thermal pull (we could tell because we had thermocouples in the pads) we would flip the inner pads side to side to balance out any thermal conditioning.
You can have something going on in the ABS controller, where a valve is letting some bleed off, if you also note a longer travel then normal. Sometimes that can be corrected just with a hard brake or two on a loose surface to exercise those valves.
Thanks for the suggestions. I have no issue pulling the wheels and checking the calipers, slide pins and pads again. It is easy and quick. I will exercise the pistons while I have them off. Swapping the front pads is a non issue as well. No worries there.
I am not sure what rubber bushings you are referring to with the front lower slide pins.
If it was an ABS module issue would the jerking change sides based on a caliper swap? Anything is possible and I am at a loss but am willing to try any suggestion you have but I also want to understand it.
The part that is getting me is that the jerking switched sides after changing the front left caliper. It was consistently going left for a month or more. It stayed that way through all the changes but switched with the front left caliper swap.
Is there any way a rear brake issue would cause the wheel to jerk to one side? If not then that eliminates half the system.
edit: Something else I noticed on the rear brake pads. The clips that go on the end of the pad backers that came with the new pads were almost the same as the old pads but neither match up to the drawing in the shop manual or pictures I have found online. Maybe a third updated clip design? They did give me a hard time yesterday getting them in and something seemed a bit off with them. I can grab a pic when I get the wheels off.
These are Motorcraft pads and the hardware came with the new pads.
A rear brake pull generally is a delayed pull, something I taught our guys to call a drift. You initiate the brake application and you feel the vehicle building up in pull, and can get pretty strong just like a front issue.
Pulls from the front axle are immediate. We have a high scrub radius so any imbalance or delay in application immediately tugs at the wheel. Usually air acts as an accumulator, making it take longer to achieve full clamping pressure, but once the air bubble compresses to the fluid pressure, it becomes even. Something hanging can cause that too, if it’s just quirky.
Just about all the friction materials sold for our truck is semi-metallic, so there’s a change in friction coefficient depending on temperature. With a slightly dragging pad against a rotor due to lack of retraction you can generate an imbalance of 75 to 100° that will be noticed as a pull. That can be immediate and will continue if not increase during the brake application. I posted some graphsabout that in the SD or Excirsion sections lately, if I find it I’ll edit it in to this.
So one thing you could do is go for a drive where you don’t have to apply the brakes often, put it in neutral and drift to a stop on the side of the road and shot the 4 rotors for temp. Any imbalance side to side would indicate a pad drag. You can also so the same on arun where you do apply the brakes often, then check all four. A dragging brake in this situation will also not let the rotor cool as well.
All of this stuff is what we would do on a test to find exactly what the cause was, but we were R&D and objective was to find the issue and document it no matter the time.
The ‘05+ TRW calipers have a history of causing pulls and drifts, without a definitive answer on the forums. Pad retraction from the rotors was enhanced from the prior design with the bracket spring clips, so that should not as much as a concern. Shouldn’t be.... But my career in brakes ended in ‘08 and we didn’t see the pull issue at that point, but that would be on the cusp of developing enough for a warranty concern.
So from my perspective there’s just a lot of things to check.
I forgot another point I was going to mention. With the earlier production design, we got into a pull issue we were not expecting back in 2001. Pulls were coming in high on warranty and what we found was the SD’s had a high scrub radius, so sensitive to friction side to side. Despite manufacturing the brake pads typical of the OE level, we had to ship pads by batch (batch to batch variability) and at the axle assembly plant the pads had to be installed by batch number. There was even a Ford TSB given so the service side would check batch numbers during corrective action. So with that wonderful experience every time I install pads I check for batch numbers. My old companies aftermarket side learned from this experience on these vehicles, and there was enough notice at the time that other companies aftermarket took notice as well. But stuff happens. That’s why the flip one pad might also help even if there’s not a temperature conditioning issue.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-replaced.html
I think it was the clip that goes on the leading edge of the front outer pad. We spoke about this clip a little over 3 years ago. I think the addition clip was stuck on the outside of the caliper bracket on the drivers side. Brake pad hardware thread from 2015
I should know how it is doing by the end of the day. I have some running around to do.
Thanks again Jack.
Taking some brake temps after a a couple 10 mile drives the front rotor temps were about 4 degrees apart. The rear rotors were about 10 degrees apart. No pulling or wheel jerking.
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