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Old Aug 29, 2018 | 04:29 PM
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8 Volt System

Purchased a 46 Ford Panel with an 8 Volt negative ground system. Question is the 46 Ford stock wiring system compatible with a negative ground?
Would like to retain the 8 Volt system (gen, regulator, batt) and insure that it works with the factory wiring.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2018 | 06:33 PM
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My '46 pickup came from the factory with 6 volt positive ground. The factory wiring is compatible with either positive or negative ground, but not necessarily all the components connected to it are.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2018 | 07:01 PM
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That is what I am trying to sort out. I could make the 8 Volt system a positive ground. I am not sure if the 8V gen and regulator would work if I switch it from neg ground to pos ground. Also my original gauges must be able to operate.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2018 | 09:28 PM
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It sounds to me that the 8V system is designed for a negative ground. As long as everything works, why change? The 8V system is not stock. The wiring doesn't care where the ground is as long as it is consistent. The gauges may already be set up for the 8V and they may work just fine without a reducer, as it is only 2 more volts. Don't quote me on that as I haven't messed with an 8V setup. Is this a running, breathing monster or haven't you gotten that far?
BTW my '46 is set up with a negative ground 6V alternator. Everything works as advertised. I had to reverse the ammeter wire so it could read correctly but that was it.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2018 | 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by newold46
It sounds to me that the 8V system is designed for a negative ground. As long as everything works, why change? The 8V system is not stock. The wiring doesn't care where the ground is as long as it is consistent. The gauges may already be set up for the 8V and they may work just fine without a reducer, as it is only 2 more volts. Don't quote me on that as I haven't messed with an 8V setup. Is this a running, breathing monster or haven't you gotten that far?
BTW my '46 is set up with a negative ground 6V alternator. Everything works as advertised. I had to reverse the ammeter wire so it could read correctly but that was it.
This project is running on a hotwire Did not trust wiring and in the process of sorting it out. The truck does run on the generator without the battery hooked up. No gauges work and going through them. I wish to keep the 8V setup and will go with the neg gnd.

I think you have to switch the wires at the coil in your case. The ignition wire will go to the pos terminal at the coil for neg gnd systems. It will run hooked up backwards but I have no idea how well it should run.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2018 | 11:03 PM
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I can't remember if I had to switch the coil wires or not.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by newold46
I can't remember if I had to switch the coil wires or not.
From what I have always heard, the coil should be hooked up so the 'ground' wire goes to the points in the distributor. I always do that when I convert to 12v neg ground. And yes, the ammeter. I bet your generator is a normal 6 v unit. I recently read that they will put out more than 12 v but it's the regulator that determines what the system gets.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 10:36 AM
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As wiring ages and corrodes starting can get more sluggish. Rather than fix the wiring, people would slap in an 8 volt battery. No changes needed when going from 6 to 8 volts. When going back to 6 from 8, you would need to fix up the poor connections that prompted someone to switch to 8 volts in the first place.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 10:59 AM
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The wires on a 6 volt car will carry 12 volts without any problem. They are heavier than a 12 volt car wiring.
I went to a 8 volt battery on my 55 Chrysler pos. ground. I adjusted the regulator to put out 9.5 volts.
I did end up with a 12 volt system eventually as I was not happy with the charging system. (I think the 9.5 volts made the generator sick and died)
As the Chrysler generator drove the power steering system, I added a GM alternator on the other side of the engine down low and painted it flat black to hide it.
I still use the 6 volt starter and I only use the heater and windshield wipers on low.
The 12 volt halogen headlights work fine off of a relay, in order to bypass the circuit breaker on the headlight switch that could not handle the extra amps that the halogen lights take.

So now, I can finally see the road, the car starts fine and I have a 12 volt radio.
For those that say the 6 volt system always worked fine in the old days, I say NO THEY DIDN'T. I drove a 55 Chrysler from 1958 to 1964 and the 6 volts never worked good until installed dual batteries. (and I still couldn't see)
 
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 11:51 AM
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This is why I went to a 6V alternator. No external regulator and I didn't have to mess with gauges, etc.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2018 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by newold46
It sounds to me that the 8V system is designed for a negative ground. As long as everything works, why change? The 8V system is not stock. The wiring doesn't care where the ground is as long as it is consistent. The gauges may already be set up for the 8V and they may work just fine without a reducer, as it is only 2 more volts. Don't quote me on that as I haven't messed with an 8V setup. Is this a running, breathing monster or haven't you gotten that far?
BTW my '46 is set up with a negative ground 6V alternator. Everything works as advertised. I had to reverse the ammeter wire so it could read correctly but that was it.
8V batteries were introduced in the early 1950's and were usually installed in cars (Cadillac/Oldsmobile/Chrysler/Lincoln) with OHV V8 engines.

Most of these cars were positive ground, but the battery makes no difference.

The 6V batteries used in these cars didn't have enough cranking amps to start a red hot engine. Another 'fix' was to install a 6/12V battery, that had a solenoid mounted on it.

The engine used 12V to start it, then ran on 6V

6V battery has 3 caps, 8V has 4, 12V has 6.
 
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