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My E4OD needs a torque converter and maybe more. I've about decided to do a zf5 conversion and I see places advertising "rebuilt" zf5 transmissions for $900 and up, with a $400 or so core deposit. I know you can't do a good job of rebuilding a zf5 and sell it for a profit for $900 but I don't mind paying whatever it costs for a good transmission, especially considering the cost of rebuilding my E4OD.
I know the best route is a complete donor truck but then I'm still left with a gearbox in unknown condition.
I just rebuilt my own ZF S5-47, agree 100% there is no way to build it well and sell for a profit at $900. Even if you buy Chinese bearings, reuse all hard parts, and cheap-*** syncros at wholesale. Cheapest of the cheap rebuild kits I saw were $200 retail, probably $20-40 margin in that. Input shafts are usually beat up at this point, $120 there. Reverse grinding is pretty common in these...which means new gear and slider. I did new syncro keys. It really spirals out of control once you split the case. I guess I am $1200-1300 deep in mind all said and done. Had to buy a pinion yolk tool. Magnets for the PTO covers. Etc. BUT IT works great.
Midwest charges $2200 area for a DYNO TESTED trans with a warranty. This is a great deal. I paid $700 shipped for my OEM Ford Rotunda tool kit to build the unit. I will rent out my tool kit with bearing puller and yolk tool if you are interested in DIY. Remember, you will have to buy a clutch/PP/flywheel...Luk works well and my South Bend shifts boss. Shift lever, pedal box.
A real converter for that E4OD is going to be $1200 alone, easy. Consider a billet input shaft while there, $200 is not much at that point. I swear they have an aluminum overdrive planet right? I would upgrade to any 4R100 stuff if reasonable in cost. I have had great luck with Alto High Energy clutches on transmissions I have built, you may have to dick with clearances to get them tighter to fit an extra clutch and manipulating pressure plate thickness to meet spec. My 5R110W had Alto Red Eagle power packs and shifted great. I cannot see a full banner kit running more than $1000, even that seems high for such an old, common unit. Add a TransGo Tugger to it too. Maybe solenoid pack. Huge cooler. Inline filter maybe.
IMO, cheaper to retain the E4OD...and a turbo Diesel with a tight converter really rips. Boost through the shifts. Difference is day and night. I am sadistic and enjoy building anything myself.
IMO, cheaper to retain the E4OD...and a turbo Diesel with a tight converter really rips. Boost through the shifts. Difference is day and night. I am sadistic and enjoy building anything myself.
Maybe it helps, maybe not.
Double down on this one. Can't say it strong enough. Turbos and automatics are made for each other.
I'm having a blast driving my ZF5 too. The miles are racking up. Almost due for my third Powerstroke oil change.
About rebuilding the E4OD, I've always done my own work but I'm getting tired of it! Just don't have any enthusiasm for it and I am afraid that if I got started I wouldn't have the patience and end up screwing something up. I don't feel like doing all the research to determine which parts are best, which 4R100 upgraded parts might be better, etc. I keep thinking my time is better spent doing other things.
That leaves taking it to a shop and that almost guarantees a screwed up job. I talked to one well regarded transmission shop yesterday and the tech was actually working on an OBS E4OD. He volunteered the information that he'd had it apart 3 times trying to get it to work right - Aargh! Glad he told me though, saved me the headache of bringing my truck there.
Also, performance wise, I know that boost through the shifts is a great thing but I just want to get down the road with confidence I can get back up the road and home. I do a lot of prospecting and mining and some places it is a very long walk to cell phone service. Almost a case of abandoning a truck if it suffers a major breakdown.
The above is what has me thinking about the ZF5. I guess it's a case of I understand and trust clutches and manual transmissions a lot better than I understand automatics. This is my first automatic and it's been pleasant to drive but it was rebuilt 70,000 miles ago by a previous owner and needs major work again already.
What does a well built E4OD run guys, from like BTS or something? I have no idea. $2500-3k sounds a reasonable starting area without converter. I am talking just good clutches, a smart tech, Transgo, dyno tested, warranty, etc.
Are driveshafts different between the ZF and E4OD?
How did you come to this conclusion? What are the trans symptoms?
It’s getting 1728 code (transmission slipping), the OD light blinks and it goes into limp mode. With a scanner connected and the torque converter locked the rpm’s jump up when I give it the “gas” more than can be explained by the slight acceleration. Something is slipping. VSS is OK.
What does a well built E4OD run guys, from like BTS or something? I have no idea. $2500-3k sounds a reasonable starting area without converter. I am talking just good clutches, a smart tech, Transgo, dyno tested, warranty, etc.
Are driveshafts different between the ZF and E4OD?
About the driveshafts, the ZF's are evidently shorter than the E4OD's and both driveshaft lengths, assuming 4WD, need to be adjusted.
About prices, the local shop I mentioned above that is having trouble getting their rebuilt E4OD to work right is charging the truck owner close to $5,000, this includes the owner dropping off the truck and picking it up later with a triple disc converter and high performance rebuilt E4OD. I think the R&R cost is about $700 so the transmission itself with super duper converter is a little over $4,000. This particular truck is powered by a 460 CID gas engine.
The shop owner told me that the high frequency impulses or vibrations from the Diesels are one of the main causes of automatic transmission problems. Kind of makes sense.
Drag racers around here rebuild their own C6s, blindfolded. They say an E4OD is not much more difficult. For $5K I'd rebuild a couple of them and swap them until I got it right.
How's your knee? My ZF clutch is pretty stout.
Plan B: Buy a $1200 transmission, sell truck, add proceeds to the $5K and buy another truck.
Drag racers around here rebuild their own C6s, blindfolded. They say an E4OD is not much more difficult. For $5K I'd rebuild a couple of them and swap them until I got it right.
How's your knee? My ZF clutch is pretty stout.
Plan B: Buy a $1200 transmission, sell truck, add proceeds to the $5K and buy another truck.
Thanks for bringing up the clutch pedal pressure. My knee is OK now but somehow I don’t seem to be getting younger. Plus, my wife sometimes takes a turn at the wheel on long trips. She can drive a stick but no way will she be able to handle a Valair clutch. Dang, the clutch pedal pressure alone may be enough to push me into an E4OD rebuild.
What does a well built E4OD run guys, from like BTS or something? I have no idea. $2500-3k sounds a reasonable starting area without converter. I am talking just good clutches, a smart tech, Transgo, dyno tested, warranty, etc.
Are driveshafts different between the ZF and E4OD?
Last time I called 4800 for a bts iirc. I will be doing that most likely....if my junk ever goes back together that is
Yap, my JW on my '97 ran $5k when it was ll said and done, and that was the HD Econo build.....AND it had problems. I would go BTS if you want to retain your E4OD. These autos are stupid expensive. My ZF-6 is expensive to repair/replace as well, but not as bad as a 4R100 or E4OD. In your case, the ZF-5 is even better on price. If it were me, a swap would be A number ONE on the list if I had all access to parts for replacement....but I am also partial to manuals.
I’m partial to manual transmissions too. This is the first automatic I’ve ever owned. What did you think of the clutch pedal effort on your ZF5’s? Do you have wives and/or girlfriends who could handle the clutch? The clutch pedal effort seems to be the sticking point in making an E4OD rebuild vs a ZF5 comversion.
She drives the ZF5 but she is 5'10" and on the athletic side. Got long, powerful legs.
It's not that bad but I don't sit with my foot on the pedal. At a light I wait until it's changing to put it in gear. But it is on my mind while I'm driving. Just like you said, not getting any younger and I'm trying to not take chances.
I'm pretty sure if my knee was sore it would kill me. I wouldn't recommend it for anyone who is prone to knee pain.
I found that after switching to a single mass flywheel, the clutch peddle was a lot easier to push, if a stiff peddle is all that is stopping you. But it may be pretty pricey if you have to access the parts one piece at a time. A donor truck would be the way to go, in my opinion, if you decide to go manual.