The least intrusive and easiest would be to pull the intake manifold and verify the valves on the offending cylinders are opening and closing freely. I've never felt comfortable with compression results on a cold or non running engine. If it ran decent a couple months ago you may want to get it running prior to doing anything. A couple dead cylinders will not prevent it from starting.

 

I agree with Ray. I had one that "was running" at some point and so i drug it home for a possible rebuild candidate.
First step was to get it resting on a makeshift platform and see if i could get it turning over. Once that worked i cleaned up the points /plugs and fuel lines.
Made sure there was oil in it and put a few squirts into the spark plug holes.

Turned if over some more (coil disconnected). After i felt comfortable with that i put the coil to it and it started right up. You could tell it was not running on all cylinders but after a short period of a minute or so it did clean up a little. Not wanting to overheat it, I rigged up the radiator and ran it some more. It got better and better but never fully cleaned up. We pulled the intake and the valves appeared to be operating so next step was to check compression. Found one dead zero cylinder and one very low, the others were ok, not great but ok. I took the heads off and found broken rings and gouged cylinder int he zero hole. the rest looked ok but not great. Obviously it was tired and needed a refresh. I took it to the machine shop and had it cleaned and mag flux'd for cracks. Nothing serious so i rebuilt it.

Bottom line is see if you can get it running and if it doesn't clean up check the valves first. If that is not the problem you will likely need to pull the heads and check your cylinders.

 

 

Certainly you can. However i would not be pulling the oil pan at this point unless you have reason to believe your pump screen is clogged.
I don't think oil pressure is causing your issue unless of course there is none.

You might want to get a mechanical gauage and screw it into where your oil sender is. You can get them cheap enough and they have a clear tube so you can see oil pushing even during non starting from cranking the starter.
I have 30 lbs just with the 6V starter but mine is rebuilt.

 

 

Your cables get hot... Are they 1 gauge or bigger? What is their condition? Cracked insulation? They could look goodg, yet be corroded inside.

 

The dot on the crank pulley is at 3 BTDC, that is where you set timing with the vacuum line to distributor disconnected and plugged. More advance isn't likely to help it start.

It definitely sounds like you have a stuck valve. If it's an intake, it will make it hard to start.

 

Assuming you have the plug wires in correctly?
Did you have the distributor out for any reason?

You need to find TDC on cyl one (right side looking from rear of engine closes hole to the distributor). You could be on the exhaust stroke (off 180 degrees)
Take out plug and remove coil wire. If possible bump starter with thumb over spark plug hole until you start feeling compression against your finger, then watch for dimple to come to pointer. (should be getting close) once is aligned that should be good enough to get it to fire. Check your rotor and cap and make sure it's pointing to very close to #1. If not loosen distrib clamp and rotate to get it close. Snug up and put wires back on.

Do this:
1. Take air cleaner off of carb if not off already
2. Need a clean fuel source to fuel pump and carb(use gas can and flex tube unless you are sure of a clean fuel tank and fresh fuel)
3. Set TDC for timing as i stated above(clean and set points/etc)
4. Assuming you were already trying to start it you should have fuel in the float bowl so pumping the throttle a time or two and looking down into the carb you should see fuel squirting from venturi tubes
5. If all that is good then you need "spark" and she should fire. You should have 6V at the coil using a multi meter or something to make sure it's energized with the key on.

Give it a shot and see what happens. Remember Fuel - Air - Spark......and TopDeadCenter on #1

AND PS: What Ross stated as well however i think if it's turning over is should start though. Did i miss you saying it was stuck? If so then yes bad cables/ground and stuck valve(s)

 

I'd say the #1 reason engines go from running to not starting is the condenser.