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I brought home my parts truck yesterday and have not spent any time with it to speak of. However, I am seeing the ignition/key insert laying on the floor and the wiring under the the dash pretty messed up.
For the purpose of starting and running the engine, can you advise as to a simple way to bypass the ignition switch in the dash. I do have a a remote starter that might be useful.
Dose the solinoid on the fender well have a wire going to th I stud on it?
If so put power to it, short from battery +to the S stud using the starter switch and you should be good.
To stop just pull the wire off the I stud and motor will shut down.
Dave - - - -
I recall when you use the solenoid for this, you need to have the ignition switch set to on, correct?
Only if you don't run a wire from battery + to the I stud of the solinoid that is the "hot wire" to power the ignition and why it is marked with an I.
Dave - - - -
I brought home my parts truck yesterday and have not spent any time with it to speak of. However, I am seeing the ignition/key insert laying on the floor and the wiring under the the dash pretty messed up.
For the purpose of starting and running the engine, can you advise as to a simple way to bypass the ignition switch in the dash. I do have a a remote starter that might be useful.
If you would like to actually put the ignition switch and key back into service, let us know what year truck you're talking about.
If you would like to actually put the ignition switch and key back into service, let us know what year truck you're talking about.
It's a beat-up 71 Ranger XLT.
I won't want to waste my spare factory cylinder on it.
Just want to make it where it is easy to crank while working on the engine.
Seen under the ignition switch is some of the hacked wiring.
It's a beat-up 71 Ranger XLT.
I won't want to waste my spare factory cylinder on it.
Just want to make it where it is easy to crank while working on the engine.
Seen under the ignition switch is some of the hacked wiring.