Clark 285 shifter issues
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 80
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From: Newport Wa
Clark 285 shifter issues
Been having a heck of a time trying to get my clark 285 shifter to stop slipping between gears. I have replaced some broken and warn parts, (reverse/1st arm and spring, the square trunnions that line up the shifter, and the large spring that holds the shifter in place) but I can't seem to keep it from slipping between gears. Every time this happens, I have to take the shifter off to get it free. I am thinking that the problem is the shifter itself as the bottom part that slides into the gear selectors looks warn. It could also be an adjustment of the spring/plunger in the reverse/first arm. In the ford parts book, it shows a bunch of shims/washers to adjust where the plunger sits. Mine had none when I took it apart. I guess my question is, where do you go for repair information for these transmissions? I have searched and searched online and have gotten no where. I did find a rebuild/service manual but it does not mention anything about the shifter mechanism at all.
Thanks!!!!!!
Thanks!!!!!!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 152
Likes: 14
The "tang" end of the gear shift lever could be worn. You can build it up with weld. On our 450 farmall tractor (same design concept) the darn thing can get in two gears at once & the only fix is to pull the lever & reach down in there with a bar & put the rails back in neutral position!
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 80
Likes: 3
From: Newport Wa
The "tang" end of the gear shift lever could be worn. You can build it up with weld. On our 450 farmall tractor (same design concept) the darn thing can get in two gears at once & the only fix is to pull the lever & reach down in there with a bar & put the rails back in neutral position!
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 329
From: Harned, Ky
If the pins that hold the shifter in place in the top cover are loose you'll need to fix that, if the shifter is allowed to rotate any at all if will slip between the gates.
A friends truck was bad about getting stuck in 2nd gear when the shifter slipped out of position, we ended up replacing the shift top and no more problems.
A friends truck was bad about getting stuck in 2nd gear when the shifter slipped out of position, we ended up replacing the shift top and no more problems.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 80
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From: Newport Wa
If the pins that hold the shifter in place in the top cover are loose you'll need to fix that, if the shifter is allowed to rotate any at all if will slip between the gates.
A friends truck was bad about getting stuck in 2nd gear when the shifter slipped out of position, we ended up replacing the shift top and no more problems.
A friends truck was bad about getting stuck in 2nd gear when the shifter slipped out of position, we ended up replacing the shift top and no more problems.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,548
Likes: 329
From: Harned, Ky
If the pins are tight in the top and the slots are the problem you can weld them up and recut the slots, just weld where their worn, not the hole slot, recut it with a grinder and cutoff wheel.
Unlikely a Eaton stick will fit a Clark trans but one never knows till they try, I'd want to know I could take it back if it doesn't work.
Unlikely a Eaton stick will fit a Clark trans but one never knows till they try, I'd want to know I could take it back if it doesn't work.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 80
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From: Newport Wa
Took it all back apart and am finding that pretty much everything that is meant to move is warn out. Even though the pins are new, the holes in the top housing that they fit into have quite a bit of slop, as do the slots in the "ball" that they ride in. The tang on the bottom that engages the shift arms is warn on all sides. Realistically, unless I can drill out my top and put in bushings, and do quite a bit of filler welding on the bottom tang, I will need to replace the entire top housing and shifter.
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Cargo Master
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 80
Likes: 3
From: Newport Wa
Clark manuals
Anyone know of any kind of repair manuals for these transmissions or any kind of literature? Looks like I am going to have to dig deeper on this issue and I would like to go prepared. I have the ford shop manual for my year, it’s not very helpful.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 80
Likes: 3
From: Newport Wa
current repairs
If the pins that hold the shifter in place in the top cover are loose you'll need to fix that, if the shifter is allowed to rotate any at all if will slip between the gates.
A friends truck was bad about getting stuck in 2nd gear when the shifter slipped out of position, we ended up replacing the shift top and no more problems.
A friends truck was bad about getting stuck in 2nd gear when the shifter slipped out of position, we ended up replacing the shift top and no more problems.
Replaced trunnions in shift top.
Installed brass bushings in shift top for new trunnions. (the original holes were ovaled out badly)
Had the slots in the ball of the shifter (where the trunnions ride) tig welded up and then re machined (they were very warn)
Built up the bottom tang of the shifter with weld
Replaced broken reverse/1st lever, spring and plunger.
Replaced the large spring in the shift top.
None of this has made any difference what so ever which is leading me to believe the problem is deeper. One thing is for sure, all the parts that I replaced or rebuilt were very warn and sloppy. The "feel" is much better now, nowhere near as much play, but it still slides right past 2nd and hits the dashboard.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 80
Likes: 3
From: Newport Wa
parts?
Thanks ND! I am just thinking out loud here as this one has me stumped so far.
#7241 tube possibly bent? It doesn't look bent, but I am working on it with the transmission still in the truck. Looking through the hole in the floor with a flashlight is not very accurate.
#7231 gate just warn to much? It looks pretty used but it is an old truck. It isn't obviously broken or totally warn.
#7E275 spacer. This one has me confused. On my transmission it is just free floating on the tube. Is that how it is supposed to be installed?
In any case I am back on the road(for my day job) and won't be able to work on the truck again for several weeks. I am just trying to put a strategy together while I am out and order parts so they will be there when I get back. I think my next move will be to remove the entire top of the trans (tin cover, shift forks etc) and do a more complete inspection.
Just trying to get this thing back to work before the snow gets here!
Thank you for the insight and help!
#7241 tube possibly bent? It doesn't look bent, but I am working on it with the transmission still in the truck. Looking through the hole in the floor with a flashlight is not very accurate.
#7231 gate just warn to much? It looks pretty used but it is an old truck. It isn't obviously broken or totally warn.
#7E275 spacer. This one has me confused. On my transmission it is just free floating on the tube. Is that how it is supposed to be installed?
In any case I am back on the road(for my day job) and won't be able to work on the truck again for several weeks. I am just trying to put a strategy together while I am out and order parts so they will be there when I get back. I think my next move will be to remove the entire top of the trans (tin cover, shift forks etc) and do a more complete inspection.
Just trying to get this thing back to work before the snow gets here!
Thank you for the insight and help!
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
If it was me, I'd inspect the 7B403 inserts on the shift forks to see if they're still there and haven't cracked apart.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 80
Likes: 3
From: Newport Wa
inserts
Thanks!
Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 80
Likes: 3
From: Newport Wa
Just got back into town after being away for work and have been hard at it with the old dump truck. After spending quite a bit of time on the shifter and related parts, I took the top cover off and pulled the shift fork assembly and found the problem. The shift fork support is cracked around the 2nd/3rd shift tube. It is only cracked on one side so when pressure is put on it, the tube moves downward just enough to allow the shifter tang to push by. Fortunately, it did not completely break as the pieces would have been very hard to get out of the bottom of the case without tearing it completely apart. I will post a picture. Also, the slot in the 2nd/3rd shift fork is pretty warn which is possibly why it slipped past in the first place. Now comes the fun part, finding part numbers and locating the parts. I will definitely need the 7E274 piece as per the above picture, and possibly a new 2nd/3rd shift fork assembly (7231). Snowing like crazy outside. Good times. lol.