Has anyone done a brake upgrade on an 08 FX4?

I will be running a stock wheel and am considering Napa Eclips Calipers on Stop Tech's Truck Performance Pack with Arramid Pads and Slotted Rotors

or

EBC Yellow Stuff with either EBC Slotted or EBC Dimpled And Slotted Rotors.

Any input would be appreciated.

 

As far as EBC products go, IMHO....
EBC Brakes Thread- this says it all IMHO...………..
https://www.f150online.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes/427029-dont-waste-your-time-money-ebc-brakes-4.html

With regards to brake linings in general,
Ceramics: They are good but do not develop any more friction than good quality OEM linings
Performance Friction & Hawk: Good braking, increased friction but can be very dirty depending on the lining selected compared to OEM.
Wagner & Raybestos: a line of products that is 100% marketing and mfg from very low quality/inexpensive and/or imported products with the mfg's not providing any back-up or support on product failures (and I mean real ugly spontaneous, catestropihic failures)VelveTouch lining- Used for many decades and was the original lining used in all Shelby Mustangs in the 60’s (I personally have used the Velvetouch lining since 1960’s until brake lining production ceased in 1986), then switched to Carbo. Wellman has been the builder of braking linings for all of the Formula 1 race teams for more than 30 years and VT is now available again.
Bendix- TitaniuMetallic™ II, a newer lining (semi-metallic) and although I have not personally used this, I have always been impressed with Bendix brake linings and this particular lining IIMHO would be a low dust, excellent oem upgrade/mild performance type brake lining.CarboTech Engineering lining, which I have used for about 30+ years and been very happy on multiple full size (V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient, excellent pedal feel, wears (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles before replacement is required) and produces less dust than OEM linings.
I highly recommend speaking to them by phone for linings that would be best for your application. Fyi- braking co-efficient is what identifies the bite rating of the linings- you want the CE to be no less than that of the OEM.....this will drive most e-base distributors & big box store "experts" right out of their mind because they either cannot verify this info or you will find the spec is less than oem. IMHO, i would look for a CE that is .49 or greater.
With regards to rotors, I have previously run Brembo OEM replacement rotors that are cryogenically treated at Diversified Cryogenics, making them almost as hard as stainless steel- Unfortunately, Brembo, Powerslot, Raybestos, Bendix, Hawk etc. are all purchasing their rotors from the same foundary in China (with the exception of the $300 each composite high end units for Ferrari, Porsche, etc).
DC purchases the highest grade rotors made, laser mic them for quality, scrap the ones that are out of spec and cryogenically treat the good ones which are now as strong as stainless. They will also slot and cross drill the rotors for you. DC's service, price and quality are excellent as well.
For street use, slotted/drilled rotors are just “cheese-graters” for the brake pads IMHO, because unless you are involved in true racing conditions, the brake linings do not produce the gases which slotted/drilled rotors are designed to relive. In some cases, brake testing indicated reduce brake efficiency in street-based operations using slotted/drilled rotors when equal comparisons were made. The staff at carbo can speak to you as well regarding those options, but I am very satisfied with the performance & wear of these products.

 

Wow!! Ok then. Thank you for getting back to me with such a detailed reply. There is definitely some excellent data and I see that I'll be doing some learning on this. I love it.

So I've owned the truck since new and had some excellent results with the original brakes. They lasted for 76000 miles and I do drive it like I stole it which did put me into a brake fade situation only once coming down a hill with camper and trailer. Its a good thing the deer moved and I've upgraded the brake controller to a MaxBrake one where now I don't even feel the trailer behind me when stopping.
It picks up on the line pressure through an included pressure sensor that needed to be installed and converts it to an electric current. The trailer brakes now modulate just like the truck brakes on pedal movement in harmony with the truck.

Once I replaced the original brakes I went to PowerSlot (now StopTech) rotors and Hawk severe duty pads which needed heat in them to work. Needless to say I got rid of them as soon I realized I needed an SUV style pad which are night and day different from the Hawks. It's been a few years now and i can't remember the manufacturer so they are a bit of a mystery but I've been happy with them. So far about 60 ish thousand miles and still work well and no rotor warp shake. I also do a brake service c/w new fluid every two years and managed to hang onto the original callipers over 160000 miles and they still work just fine.

The StopTech Rotors I purchased are not cryogenically treated but I'm not opposed to spending the extra bucks. I'm uncertain if I would choose cross drilled rotors as they are prone to cracking. Truck and camper are 11500 lbs so I'd like it to stop. That being said if I overpower the trailer brakes with too much truck brakes I guess I'd need to consider that factor. I suppose I'd want to stop short of having the tire traction to pavement overpower the tire friction to rim. Tire choice is Michelin LTX AT2 on 20's for the summer and Nokian Haka's on 18's for the winter.

Now 04 was the last year of leaf spring front ends for Ford F350's and except for some minor updates the 05 and newer style suspension and brakes are essentially identical through 2018.
The plan is to upgrade my 04 axels and leafs to 08 axels on coils which already have bigger brakes from factory and a 5' tighter turning radius. So essentially I'm upgrading the upgrades. I've been happy with the non cry PowerSlots but don't know anything about their pads so the .49 friction is good info. The StopTech website kinda blows for research so I did a YouTube search and watched their manufacturing behind the scenes video and it became apparent that they also make callipers so will give them another call to see if they have a complete solution for me. I know they don't make SS brake lines for my application but thats an easy one to track down.

StopTech big brake upgrades did achieve TUV accreditation in Germany and that's no easy task knowing the sticklers that the Germans are. My buddy is a service writer at Ford and a bit of a detail stickler. He's the one that suggested EBC as he runs them on his sport bike and does track days. So if I could find some info on the StopTech pads I'd most likely go that route but I can't find any real life data from people that have used them and could report on results.

Whats your thoughts on SSBC? They're expensive! Worth the money? Am I stuck using their pads? Ill need to give them a call and see. StopTech makes callipers also and look like very nice 2 piece callipers. Would they be less prone to flexing under heat stress then the regular ones? Kinda seams like they would. However nothing comes up for an option on their website.

 

SSBC are good components but really unnecessary...…..As far as calipers go, IMHO, I had to rebuild the brake system on my wifes 97 cougar sport last year...old age finally caught up with her (the car)…...and after researching, I went with Centric...… and there were issues.....although they did take care of them quickly, next time I will rebuild the calipers myself.....cheaper, easier, faster and I know they are done right. I had one caliper that had inernal issues, 3 leaked at the banjo fitting because of their crush washers (which looked to be aluminum but they insist they are copper...… went to the parts store and bought a package of oldfashon crush washers and that took care of that issue.