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Changing Fuel Filter

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  #1  
Old 08-05-2018, 11:42 AM
JOSHfrompa
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Angry Changing Fuel Filter

In attempting to change the fuel filter located on the chassis, the canister holding the filter is impossible to spin off using my socket wrench. I'm afraid that over muscling the wrench will break the plastic canister nut. Any suggestions???? Has anyone ever broken the plastic?
 
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Old 08-05-2018, 11:49 AM
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Many people have reported breaking the plastic housing.
It is available on line, put a strap wrench on the housing, in addition to the socket wrench.
It should come off then.
Order a replacement housing, then you won't need it ! LOL
 
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Old 08-05-2018, 11:51 AM
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There are some good how to videos, in the tech folder at the top of this forum.
Might save some grief.
 
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Old 08-05-2018, 11:53 AM
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Oh ya. I forgot to say, Welcome to FTE, Josh from Pa !
 
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Old 08-05-2018, 12:18 PM
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lube the o ring before placing it all back together.
 
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Old 08-05-2018, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by senix View Post
lube the o ring before placing it all back together.
Agreed, if it's that hard to remove, then the O-ring most likely was not lubricated during the prior filter change. Strap wrench or a replacement housing on standby like the others said.

 
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Old 08-05-2018, 10:50 PM
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I use a socket and strap wrench to avoid all of the force on the plastic nut. I slowly spin it until I can use only the socket.
 
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Old 08-06-2018, 07:22 AM
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Use a 6-point socket. That's what I use, and have no problems. I do have a spare bowl too
 
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Old 08-06-2018, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by djousma View Post
Use a 6-point socket. That's what I use, and have no problems. I do have a spare bowl too
Same here.

​​​​​​What strap wrench are you all using that's a pretty big diameter housing?
 
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Old 08-06-2018, 08:27 AM
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Just be careful with the strap wrench - there is quite a bit of pressure where the strap meets the handle, I've bent a number of oil filters. As others have said, buy a spare. Most people have bought spares - I have one sitting in the tool box under the seat. Just note that the drain valve does not come with the bowl, separate item.
 
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Old 08-08-2018, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck-B View Post
Just be careful with the strap wrench - there is quite a bit of pressure where the strap meets the handle, I've bent a number of oil filters. As others have said, buy a spare. Most people have bought spares - I have one sitting in the tool box under the seat. Just note that the drain valve does not come with the bowl, separate item.
I'm going to the dealer today to buy one. It's a good idea to have a spare in case something hits it while driving. Can't I just reuse the old drain valve and install in new cap if need be? I'll ask when I go to dealer.

I changed my fuel filters at 22k miles. I'm not going that long again. I do remember having to crank fairly hard to remove the cap. I can't remember if I lubed the new O ring or not.
 
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Old 08-09-2018, 09:53 AM
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Dave, I believe you can use the same drain valve. The Separator Cap is BC3Z9G270D. My thought was all I need to do is be sitting there after breaking the cap and messing with the drain valve trying to get it out of the old cap, into the new and somehow screw up the drain valve or worse, the new cap. There are a couple rubber o-rings on the plug. I paid $15.50 for the valve - BC3Z-9J305-B
 
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Old 08-11-2018, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck-B View Post
Dave, I believe you can use the same drain valve. The Separator Cap is BC3Z9G270D. My thought was all I need to do is be sitting there after breaking the cap and messing with the drain valve trying to get it out of the old cap, into the new and somehow screw up the drain valve or worse, the new cap. There are a couple rubber o-rings on the plug. I paid $15.50 for the valve - BC3Z-9J305-B
Thanks, Chuck. I probably will just do that... just buy spare housing and use old valve if need be.
 
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Old 08-12-2018, 04:59 AM
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I just did mine yesterday ...I broke my housing many changes ago with the socket method..since I've used a quality strap wrench. The housing comes down hard at first. First 3 turns shuts the valve so the tank doesn't drain.. The new oring comes lubed... What I do after take down is clean the treads..install new oring the coat the housing threads and frame mounted mate for the housing threads with oil.. the housing screws on so easy most of the way then a strap wrench to finish until you feel the stop.. before that was a PIA to tell when you hit the stop and many have broke it.
 
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Old 08-12-2018, 07:54 AM
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Just changed mine (the filters) yesterday. I had been neglectful and had 19K on the filters. Using oil on the o rings helped mine to come off very easy, even after that many miles.
I just use a socket for mine. I can do the lower filter easier than I can the engine top filter. If it took 5 minutes, I'd be surprised.
 
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