When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My radiator is leaking at the top and I know it needs replacing. Beyond that I don’t know much. I’m not especially mechanically inclined, but I’m trying to be. That being said, any and all pointers and a step by step “how to do the job” would be greatly appreciated. The best pricing I’ve found on it is at pep boys (part # CU1166), is this the right one right one? Thank you all in advance for your help. 90 Super Duty 7.3 diesel rwd
Before you spend all that money on an inferior Pepboys radiator, you might want to pull your radiator and try to have it repaired. Your stock radiator is 100x better than that.. Find the best radiator shop in your town, call them up, tell them you are bringing in the biggest radiator they've ever seen in a passenger vehicle, and tell them that you want it repaired and pressure checked.
Odds are, your radiator shop will whine about the size and say they can't do it. So you might have to shop around first. Do that before you pull the radiator. No sense in pulling the radiator until you know there is a shop that will fix it.
Pulling the radiator is pretty easy. Drain the fluid (there is usually a port on the bottom) into buckets, pull the top and bottom hoses, undo any tranny lines (if necessary), unbolt the fan shroud, unbolt the radiator mounting bolts, and then just lift the radiator straight up and out. If you are a man, you lift it up and out on your own. If you are scared to do that, then have a friend help you pull it out.
You can also try to find a used radiator from Ebay or places like car-parts.com. I like car-part.com because they get the parts directly from junkyards. But shipping could be tight.
Before you spend all that money on an inferior Pepboys radiator, you might want to pull your radiator and try to have it repaired. Your stock radiator is 100x better than that.. Find the best radiator shop in your town, call them up, tell them you are bringing in the biggest radiator they've ever seen in a passenger vehicle, and tell them that you want it repaired and pressure checked.
Odds are, your radiator shop will whine about the size and say they can't do it. So you might have to shop around first. Do that before you pull the radiator. No sense in pulling the radiator until you know there is a shop that will fix it.
Pulling the radiator is pretty easy. Drain the fluid (there is usually a port on the bottom) into buckets, pull the top and bottom hoses, undo any tranny lines (if necessary), unbolt the fan shroud, unbolt the radiator mounting bolts, and then just lift the radiator straight up and out. If you are a man, you lift it up and out on your own. If you are scared to do that, then have a friend help you pull it out.
You can also try to find a used radiator from Ebay or places like car-parts.com. I like car-part.com because they get the parts directly from junkyards. But shipping could be tight.
thank you very much. I will make some calls. On the reinstall, do I just fill the radiator at the cap until it is full then run it to let it cycle through the system and then top it off again once it has worked the air out of the system?
You can't rod out the stock radiators as there is turbulators in the core. A radiator shop can only dip and flush them. With the cost it's just not efficient. Money spent would be better on a 3 core aluminum radiator with welded tanks.
I recently replaced the radiator in my 86 f250. I decided to get the auto parts store cheapie because it came with a lifetime warranty. I heard mixed reviews about Champion radiators and the warranty on the Mishimoto wasn't good enough given the price. If you can live with your truck out of commission when you have the radiator repaired then that is definitely the best option. FWIW, my truck has been running great since I installed the new radiator.
Before you spend all that money on an inferior Pepboys radiator, you might want to pull your radiator and try to have it repaired. Your stock radiator is 100x better than that..
Before you spend all that money on an inferior Pepboys radiator, you might want to pull your radiator and try to have it repaired.
Absolutely. The top tank solder seam leaking due to age and vibration is the most common problem like you've posted and the most common fix is pull the radiator and take it to a radiator shop. They'll re-solder, repaint and pressurize it and submerge it in their dip tank making sure there's no leaks. Comes back like new.
I had a soldered on petcock break on mine, shop soldered on a new bushing, new petcock, flushed and pressure checked it for $50. As for removing it, eat your wheaties, get a 5 gallon bucket to stand on if you are a shorter guy like me, 6' or below, it's a big radiator
Back when I had had my oil-in-coolant issue, I ended up pulling my radiator A LOT, in order to remove the oily gunk in my rad. I ended up having a good system. I used a 6 ft rope, I tied it to the eye-holes on the top sides, stood on a small step-stool, then pulled up like a MF'er. Careful to work the base around the fan clutch, I usually could get it out without a helper.
Now that I'm older, I just use my shop crane. I'm trying to work smarter, not harder, but usually I end up working neither.
Back when I had had my oil-in-coolant issue, I ended up pulling my radiator A LOT, in order to remove the oily gunk in my rad. I ended up having a good system. I used a 6 ft rope, I tied it to the eye-holes on the top sides, stood on a small step-stool, then pulled up like a MF'er. Careful to work the base around the fan clutch, I usually could get it out without a helper.
Now that I'm older, I just use my shop crane. I'm trying to work smarter, not harder, but usually I end up working neither.
OLD? What`s old? You are just a kid...LOL ....I`ll be 75 coming this January...how did it get here so quickly?
I`ll attest to these radiators being heavy, this last spring my BIL and I were at PNP to pull the Core Support out
of a 85 F-250 6.9. With these vehicles jacked up those welded wheel stands they use, it was a struggle to get
that dang radiator lifted out, and he is 68 and built like the Incredable Hulk.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.