I have a 1996 f150 eddie bauer editon truck that is a 2 x 4. Im going to convert it into a 4 x 4 using dana 60 axles. Can anyone tell me the best year model for the f250/ 350 trucks to use for their axles?

 

Where are you from, I may have the perfect solution for you...you can PM me if you'd like or email me at ha.2065@yahoo

 

Anywhere from 85.5-97

 

Be aware none of those listed by Brad will have a Dana 60 rear axle, they come with a Sterling 10.25.

 

Also note the f250's of that era are not sporting front D60 axles either, but instead a leaf sprung D44HD TTB or D50 TTB.

What's the goal for the truck? Any particular reason you're aiming for D60 front and rear? Do you have wheels yet?

 

I'm guessing if you think you NEED d60s that truck won't have the power to do what you want anyway.

 

The f350 is leaf spring and the f150 is coil. Maybe you can really go crazy and find and 05+ superduty and use the front/rear axles.
I don't know if the steering box is different between the f150 and f350 but you will need the pitman arm from the f350. Not sure if you plan to use and 150 transfer case or if there is a difference between the 150 and 250/350 transfer case, but I would maybe caution using the transfer case from 250/350 from 96-97 as that front yoke for the output shaft to the front drive shaft is extremely hard to find unless you get that with the transfer case.

 

GOINBORDING: MY GOAL IS TO MAKE IT A DAILY DRIVER BUT ALSO CAN GO MUD RIDDING WHEN I WANT TO

 

HARDSCRABBLE: POWER IS IRRELEVANT IN THIS DISCUSSION. IF YOU MUST KNOW NEW ENGINE WILL BE DROPPED IN AFTER AXLE SWAP.

 

WILDSTANG: THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT SIR.

 

And to clarify about the transfer case for 96/97 year trucks, the 250 uses a different yoke than the 350 out of the output shaft for the front. And the front drive shaft is specific between the 250 and 350. The 350 has a double cardan u joint at the transfer case and the 250 uses a regular u joint. So if you want to use the d60, you need to find 350 components. I'm not sure about earlier years though.

 

You are right, power that you will be making is irrelevant, unless you are dropping in a blown 460 and running boggers you dont need D60s.
For ease of the project a d44 will bolt in place fairly easily( I've done enough I can now remove the 2wd parts and have the d44 in place i about 4 hours).
And with quality ujoints, ball joints, and hubs. A 44 will hold up to a large amount of power and big tires as long as the driver isn't rediculously stupid with the throttle.
As for the rear, the 8.8 is more than capable of handling power. I've had them handle low range clutch dumps with 38s mounted to them, all the was to being in the 8s in a fox body behind a turbo big block and a tranbrake.
You came for information, here is some extra information. D60s suck up more power than half ton axles, they lose ground clearance to half ton axles, the brakes are bigger and require more fluid ( yes they will work but to be proper you should swap in the larger bore master cylinder) .
Since yours is 2wd you will need to cut off your leaf spring mounts and get the 4wd leaf mounts because the springs are wider, you wont find the narrower ubolt plates for a d60 and lift block so you would have to make them or change springs and mounts.

The reason things get posted like you think you need them, is most of us have been there and realized our folly or have seen people here get through half a build and give up because of problems they created for themselves.

 

THANKS MUDSPORT96. I LL DO SOME MORE RESEARCH ON THE D44. FROM WHAT YOUR TELLING ME IT WOULD BE A MUCH EASIER SWAP.

 

Very much easier. It's a bonus if you can get all the parts from a donor or with the axle you purchase, if not, places like Jeff bronco graveyard have the needed parts to install a 44

 

I would also vote D44 TTB (that would be the easy D44 to install anyway) for the intended use. Cheap, simple install, reasonably strong. Use Spicer 5-760X u-joints in the front axle and it'll likely hold up well.

What size tire are you planning to run?