I already have a nice CV front end for this truck but I might be doing another swap in a few months. So i will look into the Tbird swap.

 

Howdy, I also do not want a hump in the bed if I can avoid it. I put a link to my C notch video below. I will dial the travel in once it's back on the ground to allow the rear diff to come within about one inch of the bed floor. If it's still hitting the frame bumpers then I may look at cutting the bed floor. I'm not sure if any of my Youtube videos has a good side shot after the CV was installed. I'll see if I have a picture and if so will post it here...Pat

P.S. The T-bird IRS is referring to the rear suspension.

 

You don't have to step notch the frame, which requires a hump in the bed floor. A small c-notch is fine and necessary with an axle flip. No mods to the bed floor are needed.

I drove mine for about a year without a c-notch (dentside) and it wasn't awful, it would bottom out on my modified bumpstops on big bumps.

it was a trip to the landfill hauling my old garage door and some leaves that convinced me to notch it, that was terrible.

 

Here's the only video I could find of the front spacing (@ the 15 minute mark). I may have some photos on my PC at work, if I find any I'll post them for you.

 

OK thanks for the info. The rear is about a month away. I'm working front to back. Today I got the twins out..next is welding a brace...i do have one question..there is a cross support between the tranny mount cross member and the main engine mount cross member. It's the trailing arm cross member..can that be removed since the trailing arms are gone. Sorry if I'm not using the correct terminology.

 

It's the support where the wood blocks are.

 

Sorry the blocks are on the tranny cross member...the one I'm talking about is just fwd of it.

 

Sorry AC2000, I'm not sure as I have a '64 and it's slightly different than your '65. Here's a Youtube I found on a '66 and a good pictorial from one of our own here on FTE on a '66...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ick-build.html

 

After looking at the FTE build it looks like he's leaving it. In my opinion if it's not in the way I'd leave it to help stiffen the frame.

 

Yes I see it in the vid...texasknowhow on youtube did a 67 and I think he removed it so I will revisit his vid also...and also he left in his weld support just fwd of the rad...thank you for all your info..

 

I left that crossmember in my 65 when I did the cv swap. If you remove it, there isn't much stock support left from there forward. I have a 5.0l and a 5 speed from an 01 F150 in mine, it has room enough so I wanted to keep the crossmember there just for frame strength if nothing else. Still debating on whether to add a crossmember ahead of the cv frame? I've seen some videos of people builds who have added, and others who have not. I guess it isn't so critical ahead of the front axle but it is a long way from there to the bumper as well.

 

Thanks Fuelsmoke, yes all of them that i have seen leave the support in the truck. today I am going to clean up the CV with the pressure washer. What is preferred on these swaps for the lug pattern, is everyone re drilling hubs or is everyone using the CV pattern?

 

I'm using the CV bolt pattern. I also used the rear diff in my truck from the CV.

My donor was a 2005 and from what my Google-fu tells me that's one of the widest rear diffs. So far the only affordable wheels I've found that have enough offset to fit inside of the rear wheel wells are stock CV wheels. I tried a set of 2017 Mustang wheels but the tires were rubbing.

 

I plan to run the CV lug pattern. I am considering running the stock F100 rear axle but I will need to use wheel spacers with lug pattern to fit 5x5 to 5x4.5 pattern. I am not sure how it will work at this time but that is my thought until I have time to see how my wheels and axles work together. I may not be able to run what I am thinking. One thing I am concerned about with using spacers is how much it might reduce load capacity of the axle. I plan to actually use my truck for a truck so it wouldn't be unrealistic for me to throw 1000-1500 pounds of sheetrock in it. It wouldn't be a daily thing, but I want the truck to be a truck still. I have hauled a ton of wood pellets many times in a half ton truck when I lived up north. I haven't found much info on what the wheel spacers can take for load. Or how it might reduce capacity. I guess most people building a hotrod, or even ratrod aren't using these rigs to do work with. I am trying to have a fun truck but still be able to use it as intended if the need arises. In all honesty, it will mostly be hauling me to work and back, and trash to the dump, with the occasional lowes run for a project.
I didn't opt to convert the cv hubs to the 5x5 pattern as it seems the wheel offsets with the cv axle won't work from a stock wheel on the f100. Plus the 15 inch wheels are a no go with the cv axle. Another thought is one popular rear axle to use with this cv conversion is a ford explorer 8.8" rear axle with disc brakes. Slightly wider than the stock f100 axle, and right lug pattern to match the cv front. If my spacer plan doesn't pan out that will be my next option. I am running a manual shift and using a CV rear will be a weird gear ratio to match to that. I have to verify what ratio my rear diff has. I am hoping it is around 3.55 to 3.73. Hopefully it isn't a 4.10 or more!
I was looking at my front wheel position again, I think you asked me about it a while back. My left front fender is bent, and I think might be bent towards the front tire. My front axle is ahead 1 inch, which on other side is fine. I thought i had issue with having 2 different wheel offsets on front, (just have junkyard wheels on it now while building it), and I have been looking at it. I think the fender damage is my problem, not the axle forward. The passenger side looks like it will be no problem. A new fender should cure the other side!

 

Thanks for the information. Ive decided to stay with the CV front Lug pattern. and yes fuelsmoke I did ask you about front wheel position. I may have gotten real lucky on my 65 there is a hole in the bottom of each frame that are perfectly in-line, they are set 1/2 inch forward of the original centerline. Sooo i will see if I can use these for fwd positioning, but i doubt that the width are the same as the CV center pins. But i will check that tonight.

Also back last week when i pulled the front clip i noticed both wheel wells were completely covered with a rubber mat like material riveted on with rectangular metal retainers. The material rips almost like 3 tab roofing material. Was this some sort of option? ive never seen it before. the wells are nicely covered in this stuff.