Sorry to make another forum but i thought it might help someone of they have this problems to.

so i know my box/switch is bad since the fuel pump is getting stuck on, but i was wondering if there any other symptoms besides that

On my 85 f150 302 efi, i just change the tfi and it ran really good for a minute then it acted like it was choking out and it died. I tried to restart it and it ran poorly to the point where if you gave it gas it died instantly.

so my question is, is this another symptom of a bad igintion switch failure or is this a different issue?

[sorry to make another forum again.]

 

I always thought they were either all or nothing until I experienced a scenario towing my boat where my Bronco started falling down in second or third gear.....like big time.
I tried to get it home and almost didn't make it up an overpass before admitting defeat and pulling over.
There was like no shoulder and my wife was freaking out and I popped the hood. I was already thinking of the cluster having a truck and a trailer pulled home and how the wrecker driver was going to wonder why I (at the time) had two late model Ram 3500's sitting in the driveway.
I have a clear fuel filter that I saw was full of fuel so i ruled out fuel then I remembered having a spare box
and no I didn't think it would help but I swapped em out anyway and I unbelievably i was GTG once again and went fishing.
So at least in my experience the vehicle can run but they can be bad.

 

Thats probably my problem then since mine runs good until it gets a temp.and it dies. But i can hook up a scanner up to mine and it runs perfectly fine and i almost broke down and bought a pickup coil but i know my ignition switch is bad since my fuel pump sticks and i dont think a scanner could fix a pickup coil so i guess im trying my igntion box now

 

If you plan on keeping the truck I would pick a scanner regardless. For the cost of them it should just part of the tool box.

 

I got a universal obd1 scanner i use since alot of my vehicles have obd1 in them lol. It helps alot but i wish i could get all the kinks out of my truck so i can drive it. One step at a time as people say

 

Cant say I have ever seen a dedicated universal Pre OBDII scanner. Got a pic or link ?

 

Since you have a computer controlled truck, try and pull the codes with a scanner or test light or whatever.

Based on your symptoms it sounds to me like the ign box.
I would say check the choke but your truck is EFI.

Whether or not you end up getting a new box, I would recommend using a few washers or felt spacers to make a gap between the ignition box and the inner fender. This will give it more airflow and stop it from overheating.
My box had an overheat issue after a few 90s-100 degree summer days, and it acted a lot like 82_F100's truck did. Never had a problem idling or going around in second gear, but at higher speeds it would lose power and start bucking.

I replaced my box with a new NAPA unit ($$$ but it's important), and it still did it, but less than before. So I did my fuel pump AND added spacers under the box and it hasn't happened again.

Sounds like your fuel pump is already good so I would go for the box.

 

This truck does not use a box but a TFI module mounted on the dist.

 

Oops sorry I thought he was asking about the fender mounted thing-a-ma-jig

 

Mine scanner isnt a real universal but it universal for my vehicles lol since they are almost all fords in my yard. I have a obd2 scanner but i rarely use it.

i still havent figure out if my ignition is my problem or if it something in the disturbtor.
i ran it yesterday and tested for codes and it gave me none but without the scan tool hookup it start up and runs ok until it gets a temp and if you give it some throttle it maxes out at 1500 rpm but it slowly rises to that rpm and when i get it warm up i hit the gas and it dies instantly and wont start backup.

 

You will get a Code 11 if the test passes.

 

True i do 1 code which is 11 but i wasnt going to count 11 since its a passing code and it not a error code.

 

There are 3 sets of codes to be pulled:

KOEO - Key On, Engine Off
CM - Continuous Memory
KOER - Key On, Engine Running

KOEO & CM are displayed when pulling KOEO codes but the two are separated from each other with a Code 10 (or single flash if counting blinkenlights).

KOEO tests the computer's ability to talk to all of its sensors and they're all returning values within acceptable ranges.

CM = Continuous Memory, this is where the computer stores any codes detected during the previous N operating cyles (I forget what N is, I think it's maybe 30?).

KOER are errors found during the self-test.

If you are getting only a single 11 then you're not finished running the tests.

 

Im only able to perform the koeo and koer since i take the battery for my daily driver, but with all that said i get 11 it pauses for a minute then another 11 and it continues this cycle unti the scan tool is done testing and it shut off and after a good 5.minutes on the koer test the scan tool.is blank and the truck down with no codes being thrown out.

so that why im thinking it has to either be the ignition switch or something distributor related.
Since my symptom are.
Hard start ups.
poorly running when warm.
Loss of power
little throttle responds.
Dies when you hit the accelerator.

 

I wonder if pulling the battery is messing up the codes?

When you say IGN switch are you talking the key switch or the TFI unit screwed to the distributor?
I can't see the key switch causing this issue.

Well replacing the distributor would take care of 2 things, the TFI unit and the pickup coil .
Dave - - - -